Hey I got a 99 civic lx, it started shutting off and turning back on going down the road. Lights werent turning off so it wasnt the battery. Ive change the whole distributer with the crank sensor too. And i hear the fuel pump working and the main relay click when I turn the key. Now it wont fire at all. Havent replaced the crank position sensor behind the crank pully, but I wired that sensor to the sensor in the distributor at the ecu to by pass it. Its a d16y7 so i used the pin out sheet from the d16y8(shouldnt be different exept for vtec? Right?) and it was for OBD2b. So i connected pin c22 to c29 and c31 to c30. That should have by passed it but its still just cranking and not starting. So either that wiring was wrong or I have a bad ECU because the fuse is good. Anyone know if my wiring was correct or if it wasnt you know the right way? Trying not to have to replace that sensor behind the crank pulley.
That sensor is actually quite an easy job. Just a few things to take off to get to it. But before you start digging into that...when you are cranking the engine look at the tach....is there any movement on it at all...if it bounces a little it's showing the crank is moving and it's a good sensor...kinda have to put all the wires back where they belong...bypassing stuff like that isn't a good idea bud.
I guess the first question should have been....do you have any check engine lights....
I'm sure you've seen this list before...I still use it after years and years of doing this...
F uel
A ir
S park
T iming
E exhaust
C compression
(F) You say you hear the fuel pump and relay...are you actually getting fuel to the rail/injectors....check
(A) do a quick cleaning of the throttle body...just make sure the cables are still connected and ports/plate is clean
(S) replacing the dizzy could have been a huge waste of money...the components are cheaper and easier to replace and most cases all that is needed....are you getting spark...Bring your battery down to your local parts store to have it checked just in case....iv'e had batteries that would light everything up and not start the car
(T) double and triple check....timing marks on on and the belt is still in one piece
(E) check your o2 sensors (should be getting a code) and your cat (another code)
(C) last but not least....internal workings....if the car has no compression....well....she wont start...pick up a compression tester and do all 4 cylinders....youtube the procedure if you've never done it before...eric the car guy has the best i've seen....
once again...put the wiring back to where it was....then try all this
I guess the first question should have been....do you have any check engine lights....
I'm sure you've seen this list before...I still use it after years and years of doing this...
F uel
A ir
S park
T iming
E exhaust
C compression
(F) You say you hear the fuel pump and relay...are you actually getting fuel to the rail/injectors....check
(A) do a quick cleaning of the throttle body...just make sure the cables are still connected and ports/plate is clean
(S) replacing the dizzy could have been a huge waste of money...the components are cheaper and easier to replace and most cases all that is needed....are you getting spark...Bring your battery down to your local parts store to have it checked just in case....iv'e had batteries that would light everything up and not start the car
(T) double and triple check....timing marks on on and the belt is still in one piece
(E) check your o2 sensors (should be getting a code) and your cat (another code)
(C) last but not least....internal workings....if the car has no compression....well....she wont start...pick up a compression tester and do all 4 cylinders....youtube the procedure if you've never done it before...eric the car guy has the best i've seen....
once again...put the wiring back to where it was....then try all this
Quote:
I guess the first question should have been....do you have any check engine lights....
I'm sure you've seen this list before...I still use it after years and years of doing this...
F uel
A ir
S park
T iming
E exhaust
C compression
(F) You say you hear the fuel pump and relay...are you actually getting fuel to the rail/injectors....check
(A) do a quick cleaning of the throttle body...just make sure the cables are still connected and ports/plate is clean
(S) replacing the dizzy could have been a huge waste of money...the components are cheaper and easier to replace and most cases all that is needed....are you getting spark...Bring your battery down to your local parts store to have it checked just in case....iv'e had batteries that would light everything up and not start the car
(T) double and triple check....timing marks on on and the belt is still in one piece
(E) check your o2 sensors (should be getting a code) and your cat (another code)
(C) last but not least....internal workings....if the car has no compression....well....she wont start...pick up a compression tester and do all 4 cylinders....youtube the procedure if you've never done it before...eric the car guy has the best i've seen.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4
once again...put the wiring back to where it was....then try all this
I am getting fuel to the intake, the tach doesnt not move while im cranking it. And when I got the car it had a bad dizzy so got a complete one for 65$. The battery is fine, getting the right voltage out of it. Not getting spark at the plugs or out of the dizzy now, it was turning off and on going down the road with the lights not turning off so it wasnt a battery issue or fuel related. I think, havent checked the pressure the fuel pump is putting into the intake. And the air filter is clean and clean going into the intake. So leads me bad to the sensor since the tach shows no sign of moving. And the reason I was trying to bypass it was Ive heard of people bypassing it when putting an OBD1 motor into a OBD2 car, might not work with mine but I tried right? Lol well another problem is the nut on the idler pulley is stripped and completely rounded off so im gunna have to cut it off, or if you got another method of doing it then im all ears but if put pipe wrenches on it, you name it and I just cant get it off. Other than that id be able to get to the sensor and I already have it so. And i havent had it long enough to check any engine codes, but when it was turning on and off the engine light would flash on and off. Just trying to get it running for now, because I do have plans on putting a kseries in it eventually.Originally Posted by dcstomp83
That sensor is actually quite an easy job. Just a few things to take off to get to it. But before you start digging into that...when you are cranking the engine look at the tach....is there any movement on it at all...if it bounces a little it's showing the crank is moving and it's a good sensor...kinda have to put all the wires back where they belong...bypassing stuff like that isn't a good idea bud.I guess the first question should have been....do you have any check engine lights....
I'm sure you've seen this list before...I still use it after years and years of doing this...
F uel
A ir
S park
T iming
E exhaust
C compression
(F) You say you hear the fuel pump and relay...are you actually getting fuel to the rail/injectors....check
(A) do a quick cleaning of the throttle body...just make sure the cables are still connected and ports/plate is clean
(S) replacing the dizzy could have been a huge waste of money...the components are cheaper and easier to replace and most cases all that is needed....are you getting spark...Bring your battery down to your local parts store to have it checked just in case....iv'e had batteries that would light everything up and not start the car
(T) double and triple check....timing marks on on and the belt is still in one piece
(E) check your o2 sensors (should be getting a code) and your cat (another code)
(C) last but not least....internal workings....if the car has no compression....well....she wont start...pick up a compression tester and do all 4 cylinders....youtube the procedure if you've never done it before...eric the car guy has the best i've seen.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4
once again...put the wiring back to where it was....then try all this
Quote:
And i havent had it long enough to check any engine codes, but when it was turning on and off the engine light would flash on and off.
You should have started there FIRSTAnd i havent had it long enough to check any engine codes, but when it was turning on and off the engine light would flash on and off.
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I am getting fuel to the intake
Does this mean the fuel rail has gas in it, or does this mean the fuel injectors are actually clicking and squirting fuel?I am getting fuel to the intake
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when I got the car it had a bad dizzy so got a complete one for 65$
You got a distributor from where for $65? Replace it again!when I got the car it had a bad dizzy so got a complete one for 65$
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Ive change the whole distributer with the crank sensor too.
Havent replaced the crank position sensor behind the crank pully, but I wired that sensor to the sensor in the distributor at the ecu to by pass it.
That sensor behind the crank pulley? The computer does not need that sensor to run the engine. It should run even if the sensor is unplugged.Ive change the whole distributer with the crank sensor too.
Havent replaced the crank position sensor behind the crank pully, but I wired that sensor to the sensor in the distributor at the ecu to by pass it.
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So leads me bad to the sensor since the tach shows no sign of moving. And the reason I was trying to bypass it was Ive heard of people bypassing it when putting an OBD1 motor into a OBD2 car, might not work with mine but I tried right?
Undo whatever wiring you hacked up, put it back the way it should be so you can figure out the real problem. So leads me bad to the sensor since the tach shows no sign of moving. And the reason I was trying to bypass it was Ive heard of people bypassing it when putting an OBD1 motor into a OBD2 car, might not work with mine but I tried right?
Then replace the distributor again.....
Quote:
nut on the idler pulley is stripped and completely rounded off so im gunna have to cut it off, or if you got another method of doing it then im all ears
Use a long chisel to drive it in a counterclockwise direction? nut on the idler pulley is stripped and completely rounded off so im gunna have to cut it off, or if you got another method of doing it then im all ears
Remove the two bolts that hold its bracket to the engine?
These socket designs sometimes do amazing things when others cannot
Well going k series pretty soon so no need. You guys were kind of some help but wish you would have elaborated on what I had already done. I checked fuel, had fuel. I checked air, i had air. Spark, well everywhere else said a sohc 1.6 or d16y7 said it would not fire without crank shaft sensor but you said it would, so what I have to conclude from that is that is false since my main fuse relay is good, and my battery is good and if the timing even slipped a tooth it would start and die. Which of course having not touched the timing belt since I got the car i dont think would make it start and die and start and die going down the road without turning it over at all... So what Im trying to get at is the trick to fool a obd2 to read a crank shaft sensor to read the cam shaft sensor for obd1 engines will not work with obd2 engines. What im saying is people have succeeded in getting there obd2 car to stop reading code by splicing those wires. Compression is good so its not stuffed, sprak plugs are good just no spark from distributor and voltage is goo on battery and sensors. But the thing is i might have gotten a bad dizzy but it was brand new from rock auto not an OEM LIKE EVERYONE PRAISES. Which have been fine with countless cars ive worked on in the past. But it reconfigured the old dizzy with the new parts and it still had no change. So the only thing that I can point myself is the the ECU and since it looke like it might have had alittle bit of damage it seems to be the culprit. Thanks
during all this have you ever reset ecu?
