2000 ex cuts off at 5k rpms read this unique case
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I just got this 2k civic ex coupe took over payments from a roommate.. its a 5spd manual coupe 1.6L.. heres whats going on.. car does not rev 5k rpms, does have a cel light on.. ok so did check see if the wiring is bad on vtec or whatever per posts on here. now the interesting part is i think whoever had this car before my roomie did, swapped the engine for a non vtec head or engine because there is no solenoid present for vtec, but there is 2 plugs hanging by the distributor that to my guess are where the vtec would be.. what to do?? i know i should check the cel codes first but my thing is how does it run without vtec and yet wiring is there?? is there a way to get the car off limp mode the way it is without vtec heads yet maybe it had a vtec ecu?? i swear its the weirdest thing i ever ran into in my life since i owned a vehicle.. all i care for id like to be able to get off limp mode and past 5k ..
Last edited by roechambeaux; 04-19-2011 at 02:54 AM. Reason: did not put engine size
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Rep Power: 261 Re: 2000 ex cuts off at 5k rpms read this unique case
Limp mode cuts off lower than 5000rpm on a d16y7 if memory serves, but if your ECU thinks that the cam position is supposed to be adjusted at 5000rpm and the solenoid isn't their to do it then that's definitely a potential cause.
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well wether im driving in any gear or revving on neutral once it hits 5k rpms it justs limits it. So i have a car that's messed up from the go then since they did a non vtec swap, yet the wiring is there.. sighs
is there any way to by pass the cutting off problem since there is no vtec solenoid present?
is there any way to by pass the cutting off problem since there is no vtec solenoid present?
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From what i searched, no
your options:
- swap a vtec head in and wire it
- get a non-vtec ecu in...
your options:
- swap a vtec head in and wire it
- get a non-vtec ecu in...
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Yeah, i took it to a mechanic and he said that i can swap the head for the right one that is a vtec since all the wring is present and computer tries to find cam to activate which is whats causing cel or get another engine all together . But i wish there was a way to bypass the sensor if maybe something to loop the wiring on vtec connectors..
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swapping the head is easier
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If it helps, your looking for a D16Y8 head.
Local CL is a good place to look as well finding a salvage one here: http://www.car-part.com/ (You can search by zipcode)
Local CL is a good place to look as well finding a salvage one here: http://www.car-part.com/ (You can search by zipcode)
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Pretty much been looking thru research and online, i only have the head thats non vtec, basically engine bay looks like if it was a d16y8 engine with the exception of those vtec plugs just hanging there and still dealing cannot rev past 5k rpm =(.. but i do appreciate everyones input and support. I feel welcomed and loving the site a lot of helpful info since i am a dyi person and my first time owning a import. Now my question is when i get to find a head should i get a port and polish one and install it and couold it be a "plug and play" kind of deal or do i have to do extra work? I also plan to change the timing belt who knows how long thats been there. but input and suggestions are appreciated..
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1. Go on local CL and find a Y8 head. Should be less than $100 but, you gotta remember you're taking a chance.
2. Find one on car-part.com for about $150-200 already inspected. Usually comes with warranty.
3. Find the local shop that does heads, should be about $200. Usually comes with warranty.
Remember, you can always use the core (you're old head) to reduce the cost by trading it in when getting a new head, or by straight up selling it ($50-100).
2. Find one on car-part.com for about $150-200 already inspected. Usually comes with warranty.
3. Find the local shop that does heads, should be about $200. Usually comes with warranty.
Remember, you can always use the core (you're old head) to reduce the cost by trading it in when getting a new head, or by straight up selling it ($50-100).
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You can always replace the ECU with the one from the head as well.. It's a shitload less work that's for sure. Just make sure it's plug and play before you make that decision.
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