Rep Power: 227

I did a lot of searching around and cant find anything saying how hard these would be to install, I even checked the ES website and their instructions are junk.

Just needed to know before I orderd if im going to have to pay a shop to do this or if I can do it my self. Ty.

 
Rep Power: 812

the rear mount is very HARD to get to and change. i would actually recommend just doing the front mount inserts. the side mounts are not included. the kit comes with two inserts for the front mount and two for the rear mount. if you do the front, its much easier. all you do is jack up the front of the car and put it on stands. then find a small but sturdy piece of plywood that will fit under the oil pan almost perfectly. next use the jack and put the piece of wood between the jack and oil pan. jack up the oil pan a tiny bit so that it is supported by the wood and jack. now you can remove the two bolts holding the mount housing to the car, and the third bolt holding the mount to the car frame. these will be very tight so you need a socket wrench and cheater pipe (like a 2-3 foot hollow exhaust pipe to put on the end of the socket wrench) to break them loose. very important! one of the bolts, i think the bottom one closer to the ground, you can only loosen a few turns with the socket wrench before the socket will get stuck between the bolt and the rear frame. so once you loosen the bolt a bit, remove it the rest of the way with a regular crescent wrench. the bottom bolt you can reach from under the car, the other two bolts can be reached from the top with hood open. take the mount out, its almost guaranteed to have one piece broken inside. thats okay, because the new mount inserts will hold it together. take the two inserts and push in one on each side to make a sandwich with the oem rubber in the middle like ES-OEM-ES. spray down the stock rubber parts with silicone to make it easier for the es bushings to push in. you will know which pair is for the front because the shapes are different. once you have it assembled, put the whole mount back on the car. this is the tricky part, because you have to line up all three bolt holes. the new bushings are beefy and make it harder to push in the hole. try and get the middle in first, then the two outers. gradually tighten them down alternating between the three. once they are tight, take the cheater pipe and give them a good final tightening. i dont know the exact torque specs, but they need to be very tight. remember how they were when you took em out and try to match that. once all three are tight, remove the oil pan support wood and jack, then remove the jackstands and lower the car. honda recommends replacing the bolts with new ones, but mine didnt arrive in time so i used the old ones. nothing broke and i still have no issues after a few months. start the car and you should feel a little bit of vibration at idle. this will go down once the car warms up, and should not be felt at all while driving. idle is the most noticable, but over time the bushings will break in and reduce the vibration even more. if you really want to do everything properly, you should get new bolts and new oem mount, which will add an extra $75 to the bill. i dont think its worth it, since the bushings repair the stock broken mount already.

if you decide to do the rear mount too or have a shop do it, be aware that there will be quite a bit more vibration with front and rear mounts done, as opposed to just the front. with just the front, its almost not noticable after a month of driving. very light vibration at idle, and no difference while driving.

 
Rep Power: 227

Great in depth write up gearbox ty ty