DIY VTEC Light (with Pics)
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From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa, US
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Originally posted by Boilermaker1
Sounds like it's working properly.
The black wire that goes to the Cig lighter harness is grounded.
Sounds like it's working properly.
The black wire that goes to the Cig lighter harness is grounded.
mine still doesnt work...
soldered the resistor and the short LED end together, then wrapped the other resistor end around the other wire and taped it together. then i tried to tape the other wire to the long end with electric tape..it stays on sometimes...when i grounded it i stick in in every hole that black harness has to offer...no light...christ
soldered the resistor and the short LED end together, then wrapped the other resistor end around the other wire and taped it together. then i tried to tape the other wire to the long end with electric tape..it stays on sometimes...when i grounded it i stick in in every hole that black harness has to offer...no light...christ
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From: Washington DC
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Depending on how hard you hit the gas, it can engage as low as 24 or 2500. If you step on it hard, then yes, it probably will engage that low. If you just barely touch the gas, then it may not come on until 3300 or so. I haven't been able to keep it off for any longer than 3300 RPMs. After that it's on. The engagement point is variable.
I did it a few weeks gao, and I ended up puting a switch on it. I used a 330ohm resistor and a blue led. Its mounted right next to my cig lighter. and at night it lights up my whole car.
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From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa, US
Rep Power: 348 470 OHM is WAY too bright for night driving, it lights my whole car, I am going to get a different resistor tomorrow, probably one of the least bright ones....otherwise it looks and works very well, good DIY
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Rep Power: 0 R3dlin3, there is an electrician somewhere in you just trying to get out. But I'm not sure he's gonna make it......LOL.
Sounds like you're taping wires together? That's not good. The tape is only for insulation, not to make the connection. Try crimp-type wire connectors or some iron-less solder stuff they sell at radioshack. Like small strips of foil, you twist the two wires to connect, wrap in the foil, then light quickly w/ a lighter and it melts to solder them together. Then you use the electrical tape or shrink tubing...
Sounds like you're taping wires together? That's not good. The tape is only for insulation, not to make the connection. Try crimp-type wire connectors or some iron-less solder stuff they sell at radioshack. Like small strips of foil, you twist the two wires to connect, wrap in the foil, then light quickly w/ a lighter and it melts to solder them together. Then you use the electrical tape or shrink tubing...
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From: Columbus, Ohio, US
Rep Power: 0 So now in addition to having the super-bright, annoying green LED for Cruise Control lit up on my road trips, I would have another constantly lit light? I don't see this being a worthwhile mod for anyone who drives on the freeway for long periods, as if it's guaranteed to be on by 3300 RPM, it will always be on.
For all of you that are talking about how bright your LED is based on what resistor you used, thats not the only factor. There are also different brightnesses of LEDs. In general there are basically two common brightnesses: 2600 mcd and 300 mcd. The 2600 ones are much brighter than the others. So you guys may have different kinds which is a huge factor.
Originally posted by spookini
R3dlin3, there is an electrician somewhere in you just trying to get out. But I'm not sure he's gonna make it......LOL.
Sounds like you're taping wires together? That's not good. The tape is only for insulation, not to make the connection. Try crimp-type wire connectors or some iron-less solder stuff they sell at radioshack. Like small strips of foil, you twist the two wires to connect, wrap in the foil, then light quickly w/ a lighter and it melts to solder them together. Then you use the electrical tape or shrink tubing...
R3dlin3, there is an electrician somewhere in you just trying to get out. But I'm not sure he's gonna make it......LOL.
Sounds like you're taping wires together? That's not good. The tape is only for insulation, not to make the connection. Try crimp-type wire connectors or some iron-less solder stuff they sell at radioshack. Like small strips of foil, you twist the two wires to connect, wrap in the foil, then light quickly w/ a lighter and it melts to solder them together. Then you use the electrical tape or shrink tubing...
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Rep Power: 0 ah for the question about the resitor on the grouding side........ if u know nething about electricity the current actually flows on the negative side ( ground) towards the positive. People usually think the oppsite
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Rep Power: 0 Question, my check engine light went on as well as my srs side airbag light when I spliced the wire. The yellow/green one from the white connector was accidentally cut so I had to take a piece of wire and put the 2 together. I also had to unplug the white and the black connectors. My car seems a little bit slower and the intake sounds a bit deeper/louder. What could've happened?
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Rep Power: 0 er i might have to take 2 wire taps and put them on the yellow/green wire that got spliced, i think that might be easier. but what in the hell could this problem be? would unplugging those 2 connectors have that effect? Was that wire also the vtec wire?
look in the diy section and see if theres something on resseting the ecu in there because im not positive on how to do it. im still not even done with this project because im awaiting an LED setup from cwick
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Deceit
Question, my check engine light went on as well as my srs side airbag light when I spliced the wire. The yellow/green one from the white connector was accidentally cut so I had to take a piece of wire and put the 2 together. I also had to unplug the white and the black connectors. My car seems a little bit slower and the intake sounds a bit deeper/louder. What could've happened?
Question, my check engine light went on as well as my srs side airbag light when I spliced the wire. The yellow/green one from the white connector was accidentally cut so I had to take a piece of wire and put the 2 together. I also had to unplug the white and the black connectors. My car seems a little bit slower and the intake sounds a bit deeper/louder. What could've happened?
My guess: the check engine light could have turned on, cars seems a little slower, because when u cut the wire from the ECU, the signal for VTEC to kick in is not sent to engine? which white and black connectors are you talking about?
hmmm try this, floor it and see if your car has the sense when vtec kicks in, like the rpm should rise faster when vtec has kicked in, you'll feel like a lurge forward or something like that.
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Rep Power: 0 I never claimed I wasn't an idiot when it came to electronics 
. Only electrical **** i've done is neons and headunit, everything else was performance. I don't know how/why all of that would've been caused by one wire being spliced then reattached tho
. Only electrical **** i've done is neons and headunit, everything else was performance. I don't know how/why all of that would've been caused by one wire being spliced then reattached tho Registered!!
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Rep Power: 0 here's the 2 connectors i disconnected. car wouldn't start without the white one on, but I rettached it.. that is also the one with the cut wire. the yellow/green one at the top
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Rep Power: 0 could it be a paranoia factor causing you to think that? im not sure. when u cut the wire and put it back together, was your battery connected or disconnected?
it might have an effect to why your check engine light is on, as redline said, try resetting the ECU.
and again, what black/white connector are you talking about?
it might have an effect to why your check engine light is on, as redline said, try resetting the ECU.
and again, what black/white connector are you talking about?
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Rep Power: 0 the black and white connectors are the ones in yellow in the picture I posted.
might be the paranoia factor, but I highly doubt it because my car was extremely peppy after the 30k checkup and oil change and air filter cleanjob. the battery was also connected =[
might be the paranoia factor, but I highly doubt it because my car was extremely peppy after the 30k checkup and oil change and air filter cleanjob. the battery was also connected =[
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Rep Power: 0 hmmm ok first lesson, dun do the wiring when ur having ur battery connected. 1 u could get electrocuted, second u'd f-up the memory.
OK, the picture is pretty blurry, hard to see. But my guess...black connector would be to the SRS for the passenger side.
The white connector is to the ECU.
AND AGAIN I MUST STRESS THAT THIS IS ONLY MY GUESS!
Make sure you have the yellow/green wire properly connected to the ECU. If you still want that LED thing attached, just wire tap it with that thing u can get from Radioshack. Reconnect the black connector as it is.
Try then resetting the ECU and SRS. It should work then.
I'm not really sure how the system works but i think since u have the battery connected while u did all of this, you prolly have the ECU and SRS memory detected that you disconnected the black connector and cut the VTEC wire.
OK, the picture is pretty blurry, hard to see. But my guess...black connector would be to the SRS for the passenger side.
The white connector is to the ECU.
AND AGAIN I MUST STRESS THAT THIS IS ONLY MY GUESS!
Make sure you have the yellow/green wire properly connected to the ECU. If you still want that LED thing attached, just wire tap it with that thing u can get from Radioshack. Reconnect the black connector as it is.
Try then resetting the ECU and SRS. It should work then.
I'm not really sure how the system works but i think since u have the battery connected while u did all of this, you prolly have the ECU and SRS memory detected that you disconnected the black connector and cut the VTEC wire.
