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Well just sent Gude an email asking about the type of gains for this and what kind of price to look for for it. I will keep everyone posted on what they say.

 
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Directly from GUDE anywhere from 45-50% increase in stock HP. Saying at 96 hp you will bump up to 144-147 and about 45% in torque. Cost is $1595.00 plus core. Come with new TB, Cam, and p & p.

 
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Interesting but I still have questions. How will the car idle. My car for a fact will not idle w/o a piggy back bc it goes way too rich and stall with the stage 2 crower cam. Would a stand alone be required for this setup?

 
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Still trying to find out. Sent them an email back asking about the grind on the cams. According to what they sent me, it uses stock springs and valves for it. So I believe Idle would be fine w/o piggyback. Just waiting for a reply back from them. Also asked for cam specs. I will post when I get them. It comes with a big bore tb so that may help with the rich issue

 
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stock springs on a hotter cam? i dont like that.

 
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if you get crower stage 2 cams you need the vs&r's for stage 2

 
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This is what they sent me on the spring issue.

"All Gude performance camshafts are designed to operate to extreme rpm on stock valve springs, we spent countless hours designing and develpoing profile which will not require a high pressure valve spring which can cause added friction and valve stem failure due to the high loading of stiffer springs valve stem failure will usually cause major engine damage....
A few exceptions we will up the spring pressure, on 1.8 Acura Integra if the engine rpm is to exceed 7600 rpm, also the 925 to 95 dx will require springs above 7000 rpm."

That is from Gude themselves. Bill Gude the owner has been building these for over 30 years now. I have had two of their head setups and are great. Just wasn't sure about the gain in an EM2 to see if it was worth it or not to go with this again.

 
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Well his package seems very promising. I just get skeptical bc many of us have daily drivers and can't afford to screw our motors up. But we all strive to gain the most of our d17's. I already have the crower stage 2 cam and valvetrain package, so I wonder myself what gains I would have with a P&P and throttle body that Gude is using. Great job keeping us informed. + rep for you.

 
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I understand as well. That is why I asked for the specs on the cam. They may be the same as the stage 1. I don't know. have you installed the stage 2 yet? What other mods have you done? I need to decide what I am going with. But only have a V2, Ebay header and axle back so far. That is why I need to decide so I can decide on what my next move is.


Thanks for the Rep Ronaldo.

 
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if it has the same specs as the crower stage 1 you wont need springs becuase its not going to up your rev limit. the stage 2 lets the d17 rev to 8 grand i think. im just not going to get cheap and opt out of springs and float a valve or some ****. ron, if you have a stage 2, get a p&p and it will help. i dont think anyone would suffer with a p&p. a buddy of mine does p&p jobs starting at about $200. i think im done modding the 7thgen though. i start my 2nd gen teg build in the middle of january.

 
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MMM that teg build sounds like a fun project UncleJuice. 02droppedex, I have the AEM V2, with a megan 4-1 header, stock cat, and megan catback exhaust. I'm hoping to buy the HP header and cat off a member here to see if I have some better gains. I'm tuned on emanage. I made crap power only dynoed at 107whp but my tune was GARBAGE, had an oil leak from the valve cover gasket not being put on right and the valves were not set to the right specs. I look to dyno again next month with the new map I made off the wideband. The car feels 10 times stronger but talk is cheap until I get some real numbers for you guys.

 
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So your running the emanage with a wideband o2. How well is that. I have looked into emanage before but haven't looked all that much into it. Do you do your own tuning or do you take it to a shop and have them do it on the dyno? I know you can't get a true tune without the dyno. And as far as a P & P goes. If you want any performance what so ever then it is a good way to go. I think I got quoted like $500 here if I take the head off myself. But it all depends on if I get a cam or go for the whole head package. Probably just the cam since I can get that alot easier than the whole head package. Does anyone know if HKS or someone makes a head gasket for the d17 yet.

Uncle. I know what you mean about valves. I would hate to throw a valve cruisin down the road. Makes my life hell. Done it before. Still better then throwing a rod though. Don't get me wrong I do wish they upgraded the springs and retainers. But I am sure if I was to ask to have it added on they would. Or I could add them when I get the package. It is more or less a comfort issue with their cams. I do know their cams produce power. But not sure how much more then the crower they would produce. I mean hell with p & p, and a bored tb you could probably make around 150 or so with a stage 2 from crower. I am sure you can get the tb from Gude. I haven't seen anywhere else that has them.

 
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I only got the emanage bc my buddy was selling it cheap. You'd be fine with a VAFC2. I thought the emanage would be better since you can can advance/retard ignition timing but our ecu's are so damn sensitive it doesn't like anything you try to change. I just started messing with my maps bc Paul Dezod said something was not right. The tuner was pulling 30% fuel at idle...wtf tune is that. I cut it down to -15% and it still idles just a lil rich but the ecu corrects after a few seconds. Tuning the d17 is just a PITA. I've learned you just let the ecu do its thing and it will keep close to a 14.7 ratio. The wideband just helps me monitor my WOT fuel and to make sure I'm not to lean. I have AEM Uego also.

This thread shows you the map the tuner made. I basically cut all those numbers in half especially at idle.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...age-n-map.html

 
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Looks like I may just go with a crower stage 2 with springs and retainers then get a p & p and see about picking up the big bore tb from Gude. Should be good for around 150 or so. If not maybe a little bit more. Need to get my program reinstalled on my comp for engine building and tuning. Desktop Dyno.

 
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For big power some people are experimenting with higher compression pistons but I honestly can't afford to rip apart the engine again. Buying a spare head might be an option since I can't have any down time for the P&P.

 
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ok guys, kinda stupid question because u all have been dealing with this cam stuff...etc. so sry for it, but here it is..

Ok so im thinking of EX heas swapping my LX, stage 2 crower w/spring/retainer kit. I ALSO want to bore out my throttle body and get a aem cam gear.

The question is, will the VAFC-2 work with ALL of the above parts?? I thought the stage 2 cam needed the emanage, but I guess im wrong...also thought a bored out t/b needed more tuning, or something to mess with the 02 sensor- like the emanage

can any1 please help?

 
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ah i just forgot something...I have SRI, magnaflow exhaust, pulley kit spark plugs, and grounding wires right now. my car is also *Automatic* : / and crower says increase with stage 2 from 1000-8000rpm so does that effect my shifting or something or what? I also want to get a overhaul kit to get a little more out of my sad auto trans. lol

 
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It's cool, just do it and then when you blow out your transmission get a manual and beef it up! That's what I plan to do, haha.

 
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Mateo I do think that cam is for automatic transmission. You do not need emanage. A VAFC2 is sufficient. I have emanage and still working out some tuning issues but for the most part the car is running good. Shifting stays the same its the idle that gets a lil quirky. I say if your automatic just turbo that bish...

 
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Could always go with a JMO torque convertor. I have an automatic as well but am staying N/A. Looking at the jmo convertor and oil cooler. Maybe eventually getting a reworked tranny for it. Or upgrading to a 5 speed depending on price issues.

Mateo, if you want to upgrade a little bit look into the JMO convertors. I had one on my supra and it was well worth it.

 
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i built and swapped a whole a2 into my lx and only used a vafc-ii. works fine. it ran rich as hell at first but the ecu corrected it. i would swap to a 5 speed and i would use an lx 5 speed tranny. the d17 tranny is cheap as hell and is a lot cheaper than openin up an auto and start rebuildin ****. the stage 2 cam requires no tuning. only the stage 3. all youll need is the vafc-ii to control vtec engagement. in your situation though, i would find a d17a2 ecu, and the tranny of the a1 and swap for both. the auto ecu isnt going to be as aggressive and youll be able to start out with a tad more hp with the 5 speed a2 ecu.

 
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ya that would be nice, but thats going to cost a **** load to get a whole new manual trans. and the whole stage 2/ ex head swap. Plus installation : /

How much is that? I was looking up for things to help my auto trans. out and I think I found some better alternatives (cheaper too):

*Overhaul kit- $210 -makes shifts a whole lot smoother for auto's
*B&M Shift Improver Kit for auto's- $50- kinda like a short shifter for auto's
*B&M Super Cooler Auto Trans. Cooler w/install kit- $60- to help when driving hard

and then on top of that we could both do the torque converter and oil cooler lol our auto's would be running like manuals with that kind of work on them : )

 
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you can get a used a1 tranny for about 100-200 bucks. swap wouldnt be bad. i could find you all the cables, center console, and shifter assembly.

 
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The cheapest tranny that I found was about $700 and that was a jdm. The JMO torque convertor with oil cooler is about $800. I have thought about the swap and looking into a full front clip. Then I have everything from pedals, to cables and all the little miscalaneous stuff. I have been quoted between 1500 and 3000 for a swap if they get everything.

 
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you got overquoted bad. of course a jdm tranny would be more, but its a d17 tranny. just get a usdm one and if you want to put some cash in it put the quaife lsd in it supermex got. its only a prototype right now but should be available soon. i sell parts for a guy with a honda graveyard and could probably get you everything needed for around a grand. maybe a tad more. only thing you would be responsible for is installation. i hate autos and do everything possible to avoid them. ive got a 04 dodge ram with a blown 318 and an auto o/d a518 and ive put 3 trannys in it in 5 years. they cant hold up.

 
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yeah i hate it too, but im stick with it..and i wouldnt want to waste over a grand just to switch to manual, i mean if the ex head swap and stage 2 cam will work fine on my auto, then id rather get that. or new rims lol. i can get a overhaul kit or shift improver kit for my auto trans. that would help shifts and be alot cheaper than manual...i think i might do that

 
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so do you know FOR SURE that the stage 2 crower cam will work with my auto trans.??

 
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yeah. its not going to add enough hp to blow the tranny. only when you boost youll need a tranny upgrade.

 
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Those prices were for shops doing the work. Not myself. That was all parts and labor. I know I can get the parts for just about a grand. If not a little bit more. Just gotta talk the wife into letting me do it. I am not going turbo, or NO2. Keeping N/A. Maybe a k24 swap. not sure yet. What do I need to do be become a N/A EM2 crew.

 
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Just put it in your sig man you don't need to do anything haha.