2001 em2 ex fog light wiring problems
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2001 em2 ex fog light wiring problems
I've used the search function extensively and conclude that I wired up my OEM replica fogs correctly. I even rewired the fuse plug to the 4th pin from the 1st. When I powered up, I blew my interior light fuse and the fogs still did not work. Am I supposed to up the amp on the interior light fuse? I dont know whats goin on. I did everything as instructed in the threads I've searched.
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you might have a 2003 fog light wire harness 
. there's just too many problems with the replica fog lights, so i suggest you make your own toggle switch. you just need to make a trip to radio shack for a switch, some wires, and an in-line fuse. use your creative juices from there.
. there's just too many problems with the replica fog lights, so i suggest you make your own toggle switch. you just need to make a trip to radio shack for a switch, some wires, and an in-line fuse. use your creative juices from there. Thread Starter
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My harness do come with an inline 30a fuse. It seems that its drawing too much juice and blowing the small light fuse under the hood everytime I turn on my headlights.
How many amp is that inline fuse supposed to be?
Tell me if this makes sense:
1 pin plug from the fusebox (under the steering column) goes to the 30a fuse.
30a fuse goes to the 4 pin plug.
4 pin plug goes to the ground.
Ground goes to the switch.
Switch to relay.
Relay to lights.
My harness do come with an inline 30a fuse. It seems that its drawing too much juice and blowing the small light fuse under the hood everytime I turn on my headlights.
How many amp is that inline fuse supposed to be?
Tell me if this makes sense:
1 pin plug from the fusebox (under the steering column) goes to the 30a fuse.
30a fuse goes to the 4 pin plug.
4 pin plug goes to the ground.
Ground goes to the switch.
Switch to relay.
Relay to lights.
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Rep Power: 0 Ok, I'm borrowing this picture. Thank you to whoever it is.
hxxp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/xeninworx/FogPlugs.jpg
I have these same exact connectors and I installed it exactly how it is in the pic. Yet, my damn "small light" fuse under the hood keeps blowing and the fogs dont even light up. Its starting to **** me off.
edit: Ok i guess I cant post pics until I have 15 posts.
hxxp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/xeninworx/FogPlugs.jpg
I have these same exact connectors and I installed it exactly how it is in the pic. Yet, my damn "small light" fuse under the hood keeps blowing and the fogs dont even light up. Its starting to **** me off.
edit: Ok i guess I cant post pics until I have 15 posts.
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From: VA
Rep Power: 434 4-pin plug shouldnt be going to ground...or at least i dont think it should.
my kit came with a 20 amp fuse, so if you're blowing a 30 amp fuse, then you have a wiring problem. check to make sure that the wiring harness is correct (i.e. what wire goes to ground...)
my kit came with a 20 amp fuse, so if you're blowing a 30 amp fuse, then you have a wiring problem. check to make sure that the wiring harness is correct (i.e. what wire goes to ground...)
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Rep Power: 0 I blew the bulbs in my OEM style switch figuring things out, but, it still works, just doesn't illuminate.
On mine, the switch had a red w/ yel x2, a red w/ blu and black x2. The red w/ blu was 12v out from switch to the relay and the red w/ yel came from the panel (4 pin w/ rewire to right side, #2 in your pic). The red w/ yel (#2)is your park light switched source and also illuminates the switch.
#3 in your pic is constant 12v to the relay and #1 wasn't used at all in my installation.
My harness came with another 4 pin connector (blue wire) that wasn't used at all. Also, none of the colored wires go to ground, only black! I didn't use the stock pre-wire that is found behind the pass headlight, ran my own directly from the relay.
Hope this helps.
On mine, the switch had a red w/ yel x2, a red w/ blu and black x2. The red w/ blu was 12v out from switch to the relay and the red w/ yel came from the panel (4 pin w/ rewire to right side, #2 in your pic). The red w/ yel (#2)is your park light switched source and also illuminates the switch.
#3 in your pic is constant 12v to the relay and #1 wasn't used at all in my installation.
My harness came with another 4 pin connector (blue wire) that wasn't used at all. Also, none of the colored wires go to ground, only black! I didn't use the stock pre-wire that is found behind the pass headlight, ran my own directly from the relay.
Hope this helps.
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Rep Power: 0 Thanks for the replies, fellas.
The fuse that kept blowing was the "small light" fuse inside the fuse box under the hood. That fuse is 15a. The fuse thats 30a is the one that the harness included in that little plastic casing connected to the 4 pin plug. That one is not blowing at all. I'm thinking I should replace it with a 20a fuse or something.
Ok, I think thats how mine is set up. I probably made a mistake on the ground part in my earlier post. I was trying to remember the schematic from the top of my head and it was wrong. The wire set up is exactly how you've explained it, yet it still doesnt fire up the fogs and keeps blowing the underhood fuse.
If all else fail, I'm just gonna mickey mouse it to the parking lights with a relay or something. BUT I dont really wanna do that, I wanna make this work!
Originally Posted by infinite012
4-pin plug shouldnt be going to ground...or at least i dont think it should.
my kit came with a 20 amp fuse, so if you're blowing a 30 amp fuse, then you have a wiring problem. check to make sure that the wiring harness is correct (i.e. what wire goes to ground...)
my kit came with a 20 amp fuse, so if you're blowing a 30 amp fuse, then you have a wiring problem. check to make sure that the wiring harness is correct (i.e. what wire goes to ground...)
Originally Posted by CivicDuty
I blew the bulbs in my OEM style switch figuring things out, but, it still works, just doesn't illuminate.
On mine, the switch had a red w/ yel x2, a red w/ blu and black x2. The red w/ blu was 12v out from switch to the relay and the red w/ yel came from the panel (4 pin w/ rewire to right side, #2 in your pic). The red w/ yel (#2)is your park light switched source and also illuminates the switch.
#3 in your pic is constant 12v to the relay and #1 wasn't used at all in my installation.
My harness came with another 4 pin connector (blue wire) that wasn't used at all. Also, none of the colored wires go to ground, only black! I didn't use the stock pre-wire that is found behind the pass headlight, ran my own directly from the relay.
Hope this helps.
On mine, the switch had a red w/ yel x2, a red w/ blu and black x2. The red w/ blu was 12v out from switch to the relay and the red w/ yel came from the panel (4 pin w/ rewire to right side, #2 in your pic). The red w/ yel (#2)is your park light switched source and also illuminates the switch.
#3 in your pic is constant 12v to the relay and #1 wasn't used at all in my installation.
My harness came with another 4 pin connector (blue wire) that wasn't used at all. Also, none of the colored wires go to ground, only black! I didn't use the stock pre-wire that is found behind the pass headlight, ran my own directly from the relay.
Hope this helps.
If all else fail, I'm just gonna mickey mouse it to the parking lights with a relay or something. BUT I dont really wanna do that, I wanna make this work!
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Rep Power: 0 There could be a short in the switch. Try taking the switch out of the equation by unplugging it and jumpering the 2 red wires. This should cause the relay to click when you jumper on and off. Also, don't connect the ground wires on the switch plug at this point, they are not need to switch the relay only illuminate the switch. The relay has its own ground which should be connected. Don't have the lights plugged in either, you just want to listen for the relay.
Don't worry about there being 3 red wires because 2 of them are just tied back to each other in the bundle. The important thing will be to jumper the 2 different red wires.
If that works without blowing the fuse, plug in the fog lights and try again. If they light up, the problem is with the switch. Make sure your jumpers don't accidently touch a ground source!
Don't worry about there being 3 red wires because 2 of them are just tied back to each other in the bundle. The important thing will be to jumper the 2 different red wires.
If that works without blowing the fuse, plug in the fog lights and try again. If they light up, the problem is with the switch. Make sure your jumpers don't accidently touch a ground source!
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Originally Posted by CivicDuty
There could be a short in the switch. Try taking the switch out of the equation by unplugging it and jumpering the 2 red wires. This should cause the relay to click when you jumper on and off. Also, don't connect the ground wires on the switch plug at this point, they are not need to switch the relay only illuminate the switch. The relay has its own ground which should be connected. Don't have the lights plugged in either, you just want to listen for the relay.
Don't worry about there being 3 red wires because 2 of them are just tied back to each other in the bundle. The important thing will be to jumper the 2 different red wires.
If that works without blowing the fuse, plug in the fog lights and try again. If they light up, the problem is with the switch. Make sure your jumpers don't accidently touch a ground source!
Don't worry about there being 3 red wires because 2 of them are just tied back to each other in the bundle. The important thing will be to jumper the 2 different red wires.
If that works without blowing the fuse, plug in the fog lights and try again. If they light up, the problem is with the switch. Make sure your jumpers don't accidently touch a ground source!
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Rep Power: 0 If the relay was wired correctly, but was bad, I think it simply wouldn't work. I highly doubt it would blow the interior light fuse. At this point you will need to be sure about the relay wiring.
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Originally Posted by CivicDuty
If the relay was wired correctly, but was bad, I think it simply wouldn't work. I highly doubt it would blow the interior light fuse. At this point you will need to be sure about the relay wiring.
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Rep Power: 0 Alrite, I just found out my relay is bad. What a POS ebay item. Bad switch and bad relay. When I test power them straight, they light up and my fogs look so good.
Is it a good idea to power them up to my parking lights without using relay? My audio installer friend said thats not a good idea.
Is it a good idea to power them up to my parking lights without using relay? My audio installer friend said thats not a good idea.
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Rep Power: 0 I agree with your installer, not a good idea. Think of it this way, that little fuse you keep popping under the hood will be taking all of the current from the lights. If you think, "hey, I'll just put in a bigger fuse", also not a good idea. The wires on that circuit aren't big enough to handle all that power and you risk burning something out.
The best idea is to get a new relay and wire it from scratch. They aren't expensive either. The OEM switch could still be usable. Take the switch appart and see if the pins have been pushed back into the metal case inside. I wish I had a picture to explain better, but, basically the pins are shaped like an 'L" going into the circuit board and bend very easily. Next, take a mutli-meter and check for continuity, both when the switch is on and off. It will be the pin that normally connects the 2 red wires of different color stripes. Mine was the outside pin (opposite the ground) and the next one in from there. If you find these 2 pins and they successfully break and connect the circuit, you're GOLD! Remember to still use that single pin connector (#3 in pic) as the main power source for the lights.
This will be all you need to connect the switch to your new relay. If you don't want to go through the trouble, or you're fed up, connect the park light switched power to the relay. This will work fine but you won't be able to turn off your fogs separate from your headlights.
The best idea is to get a new relay and wire it from scratch. They aren't expensive either. The OEM switch could still be usable. Take the switch appart and see if the pins have been pushed back into the metal case inside. I wish I had a picture to explain better, but, basically the pins are shaped like an 'L" going into the circuit board and bend very easily. Next, take a mutli-meter and check for continuity, both when the switch is on and off. It will be the pin that normally connects the 2 red wires of different color stripes. Mine was the outside pin (opposite the ground) and the next one in from there. If you find these 2 pins and they successfully break and connect the circuit, you're GOLD! Remember to still use that single pin connector (#3 in pic) as the main power source for the lights.
This will be all you need to connect the switch to your new relay. If you don't want to go through the trouble, or you're fed up, connect the park light switched power to the relay. This will work fine but you won't be able to turn off your fogs separate from your headlights.
Last edited by CivicDuty; Dec 9, 2005 at 06:46 AM.
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Originally Posted by CivicDuty
I agree with your installer, not a good idea. Think of it this way, that little fuse you keep popping under the hood will be taking all of the current from the lights. If you think, "hey, I'll just put in a bigger fuse", also not a good idea. The wires on that circuit aren't big enough to handle all that power and you risk burning something out.
The best idea is to get a new relay and wire it from scratch. They aren't expensive either. The OEM switch could still be usable. Take the switch appart and see if the pins have been pushed back into the metal case inside. I wish I had a picture to explain better, but, basically the pins are shaped like an 'L" going into the circuit board and bend very easily. Next, take a mutli-meter and check for continuity, both when the switch is on and off. It will be the pin that normally connects the 2 red wires of different color stripes. Mine was the outside pin (opposite the ground) and the next one in from there. If you find these 2 pins and they successfully break and connect the circuit, you're GOLD! Remember to still use that single pin connector (#3 in pic) as the main power source for the lights.
This will be all you need to connect the switch to your new relay. If you don't want to go through the trouble, or you're fed up, connect the park light switched power to the relay. This will work fine but you won't be able to turn off your fogs separate from your headlights.
The best idea is to get a new relay and wire it from scratch. They aren't expensive either. The OEM switch could still be usable. Take the switch appart and see if the pins have been pushed back into the metal case inside. I wish I had a picture to explain better, but, basically the pins are shaped like an 'L" going into the circuit board and bend very easily. Next, take a mutli-meter and check for continuity, both when the switch is on and off. It will be the pin that normally connects the 2 red wires of different color stripes. Mine was the outside pin (opposite the ground) and the next one in from there. If you find these 2 pins and they successfully break and connect the circuit, you're GOLD! Remember to still use that single pin connector (#3 in pic) as the main power source for the lights.
This will be all you need to connect the switch to your new relay. If you don't want to go through the trouble, or you're fed up, connect the park light switched power to the relay. This will work fine but you won't be able to turn off your fogs separate from your headlights.
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Rep Power: 0 You can use the same spots you are already using assuming you get a new relay. Here's how to hook it up...
Switched power from #2 in the pic goes to #85 on the relay
12v constant (high current with fuse) #3 in pic goes to #30 on relay
Ground wire connects to #86 on relay
Fog lights connect to #87 on relay
When you turn on your running lights the fogs will turn on too. Make sure you use 14 guage or better wire for the high current stuff to and from the relay including the ground. The switched power can be thin, doesn't matter. The relay should come with a wire diagram too which you should follow 'cause I'm just going from memory here.
Good luck!
Switched power from #2 in the pic goes to #85 on the relay
12v constant (high current with fuse) #3 in pic goes to #30 on relay
Ground wire connects to #86 on relay
Fog lights connect to #87 on relay
When you turn on your running lights the fogs will turn on too. Make sure you use 14 guage or better wire for the high current stuff to and from the relay including the ground. The switched power can be thin, doesn't matter. The relay should come with a wire diagram too which you should follow 'cause I'm just going from memory here.
Good luck!
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Originally Posted by CivicDuty
You can use the same spots you are already using assuming you get a new relay. Here's how to hook it up...
Switched power from #2 in the pic goes to #85 on the relay
12v constant (high current with fuse) #3 in pic goes to #30 on relay
Ground wire connects to #86 on relay
Fog lights connect to #87 on relay
When you turn on your running lights the fogs will turn on too. Make sure you use 14 guage or better wire for the high current stuff to and from the relay including the ground. The switched power can be thin, doesn't matter. The relay should come with a wire diagram too which you should follow 'cause I'm just going from memory here.
Good luck!
Switched power from #2 in the pic goes to #85 on the relay
12v constant (high current with fuse) #3 in pic goes to #30 on relay
Ground wire connects to #86 on relay
Fog lights connect to #87 on relay
When you turn on your running lights the fogs will turn on too. Make sure you use 14 guage or better wire for the high current stuff to and from the relay including the ground. The switched power can be thin, doesn't matter. The relay should come with a wire diagram too which you should follow 'cause I'm just going from memory here.
Good luck!
listen bud, what I did is just wired my foggies to the side markers using the OEM fog switch. It takes just 5 min job. when I will be back from X-mas vocation I can give schematic, it is quite simple and easy.
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