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2003 Honda Civic 4-Dr 1.7 - I posted a few months back regarding my blown head gasket looking for advice. Well I decided the prudent thing to do was replace the engine. The garage I had do it charged me $700 (ended up $1100 due to needing a radiator and motor mounts) but it started having issues even before I picked it up. After they got it put together the check engine light came on as well as the blinking D in drive. According to him both seemingly transmission related and they couldn't figure out why. He said he filled the fluid (I do however need to double check that). When I picked it up it drove horribly and had nearly zero acceleration. All that said, the engine itself seems to purr like a kitten. I'm only a few blocks away or I wouldn't even have wanted to drive it. So here I am $2350 into it and have it home but still don't want to even drive it. Mr. fix it man says I'll need to take it to a transmission place as they don't have that skill. First off, to ME it makes zero sense that it's the actual transmission as I've never had the slightest issue and the fluid is very clean and it only started after the engine swap. He mentioned that it could be that the computer needs to be reset or something? Any and I mean ANY help or advice here appreciated. This all feels like a bad dream today. I was so excited when he called and said it was ready and that elation lasted maybe half an hour until I drove it

Edited to add: He mentioned that the engine was very slightly different than the old one with less (or maybe more) cables somewhere

 
Rep Power: 125

Two different 1.7L engines were offered in this car, so it would be important to note which one was put in, though it's likely unrelated to your current issue.

More/less wires would lead me to believe that things are not connected. First thing would be to verify that everything is plugged in where it's supposed to go.

If that all checks out, it's possible you in fact have a transmission issue. The early automatics were notoriously bad.

 
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Based on a bit of research this evening I feel strongly that the car is in "limp mode" which I had zero clue existed before today and am assuming the issue is something related to a sensor, wiring or possibly the brain. He mentioned swapping the computer out and that it was a bit different than the original one??

 
Rep Power: 125

That could possibly make a difference, but limp mode would be indicated by a check engine light, not a flashing D.

Verify that everything is plugged in. A faulty/inoperative vehicle speed sensor would explain what you're referring to.

 
Rep Power: 224

Looks like you need a new mechanic. Imagine replacing an engine for someone, charging them over $1k, then giving it back to them in that state and blaming the transmission/ECU. Incredible.

The check engine light is on, give us the fault code.

 
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This has been my thought ever since I picked it up. It just all seems surreal. I'm going to get the codes but it might be Monday. Will report back and appreciate any help

 
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Just to clarify, it has BOTH a check engine light and flashing D

 
Rep Power: 367

any parts store can get the codes

 
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OK guys I stopped back at the garage and had the guys run the codes again for me and here's what they got (also pictured) P1753 (1/2)

1) A/T Lockup Sol A Failure
2) TCC Solenoid Valve A Failure
DTC Severity 2 of 3

I also found out that the new engine came with it's own ECU which they did NOT use but I do have it

Any help appreciated!

 
Rep Power: 367

do you know which car the engine came from? year model trim? was it an auto?
What is your car? DX/LX? EX?

 
Rep Power: 367

and check the engine code on current engine

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ation-d17.html

 
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OK I will look for that code on the engine as well and thanks for the help. Here is the info on the car and also a link to the engine I bought. It likely wasn't the actual engine pictured but was told it would be the same

ENGINE ON EBAY - https://www.ebay.com/itm/274769380813

 
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OK here's the engine as well as any numbers I could find and the ECU that came with the new engine if that's a help

 
Rep Power: 367

OK, so VTEC engine in both (your original is likely the D17A2 used in EX trim, D17A is the japanese version VTEC, both interchangeable) - OK, computer/engine should work fine with whichever you use

ECU/PCM - yours is for auto, the one that was for the engine you bought is unknown (does not say if auto or manual - ECU/PCM controls the transmission also in auto cars, manual ECU/PCM I think did not have the programming for trans if my memory serves me well)

PS: don't try to swap the computer, the keys need to be programmed to the computer. If you change the computer, you need to call someone to program it for you, or else it will stop the fuel supply (anti-theft)

Really don't see the reasons for the CEL's...

Check if the bolts holding the alternator are tight - these tend to loosen and fry computers... Just in case.

 
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Thanks for all that info and I will make sure to check the alternator bolts. So I am curious... I did a little researching online earlier regarding the specific error and came across this (pictured). Is it possible that the guys that replaced the engine just somehow didn't make sure the wiring for the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid was attached correctly or something? I do realize that you guys are the experts and me looking for answers online is a bit like diagnosing a headache on WebMD and coming to the conclusion that I have an aneurysm or something but my suspicion all along was that they missed something as far as the wiring goes. Secondly, is it safe for me to drive it short distances while in "limp mode" or whatever until I get this figured out? I'm talking 6-8 blocks to the grocery store, 7-11 or my local bar for my dart league. I see wildly differing opinions online. I hate driving it at all as it currently feels kinda like a tank and seems to top out around 40mph or so.

Also sdaidoji for what it's worth the only other issue I am really having is that the ignition has become sticky and has been making me crazy. With that in mind, I was going to have them replace the ignition cylinder when this was all sorted out. I have the cylinder and new keys so would be having a locksmith friend come out after to re-program it anyway if that makes any difference here. This is all just so frustrating and if I might vent a bit, I have put SO much maintenance into this car! My wife passed in February after a four year cancer battle and I did everything I could to make sure we had a dependable car to get her to her appts and such. There isn't much on the car that hasn't been replaced from the brakes, timing belt, CV axle's to basically all the sort of mid-life stuff that needed to be done. Sorry to get so personal but but geez... I deserve a break here and to have a dependable little Honda again!

 
Rep Power: 367

I, personally, am really not an auto trans expert, but yes, the possibility of knocking off the trans connector or not fully pushed in do exist. Especially since you mentioned the mechanic that did the job said they are not familiar with trans either...

If the key smith is a friend, great!
Do you happen to know a mechanic inclined friend who could come over?

sorry for you loss, BTW

 
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Well I talked to a fellow at a transmission shop and he couldn't have been more helpful. He said that it should be the transmission solenoid or the wiring to it and also said that it's not uncommon for them to get broken when doing an engine install. So I am ordering the part and will go back to my garage guys. There is a VERY good video on YouTube showing that it's not even that difficult. I appreciate all the help but have one more question if anyone happens to know. I thought that if I could I would get the wiring harness as well to be on the safe side. I did a quick google search and didn't come up with a lot. Would that be something I could get online or at an auto parts store or would it have to be a junkyard thing?

EDITED TO ADD - OK I think I'm seeing some on eBay anyway

 
Rep Power: 367

or car-part.com for scrapyards nearby

 
Rep Power: 224

If only the mechanic you paid would troubleshoot the issue they created

There are only a handful of solenoids on the transmission, check them all.

 
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Dont buy a wiring harness before checking the wires from the trans solenoids to the PCM. If theres a slice in the wire it can be fixed easy. Replacing the whole harness with a used one is risky and a pain in the ***.
Check the solenoids themselves to see if they look like they were knocked out of alignment, they arent very robust.
Also run 12 volts to the solenoids to see if if you hear the clicking, if not, get them in a junkyard or the above mentioned parts places. Aftermarket solenoids never work. Trust me on this.

 
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OK I just wanted to wrap this up in case the info helps someone else. I asked the garage to replace the transmission solenoid and I didn't buy the entire harness but just a wire connector I guess (?) in case it was needed. They came and dropped it off at my house a few hours later and have been rolling ever since! Thanks all for the ideas, info and help

 
Rep Power: 224

Glad to hear it all worked out!