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I have an 05 em2 coupe that I'm building up the suspension and I'm wondering if an aftermarket front sway bar is worth it. I've got the rear sway bar taken care of.

 
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Depends what you want out of the car. I found just upgrading the rear made the car much more neutral. It handled like I wanted it with just a rear upgrade. You could stiffen up the front and make it fo back to more Understeer

 
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I do autoX, so I completely removed my front bar and have the 1" rear progress bar. With camber correction front/rear (-1.5F/-0.5R), it still understeer.
my opinion is:
want the car to feel with less roll, so "feel faster"? keep stock bar.
want to really go faster, even if it feels weird in having the front roll and the rear lift the inside tire? remove the bar and correct the camber.

 
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WHAT exactly did you do to upgrade the rear bar?
Im also looking to better my cornering/handling and not sure where to start. it already has 205/55R16 wheels with winter pirellis over n above the stock 195/65R16s. but im looking to upgrade swaybars and tower brace if applicable?
Would an Si set of swaybars fit?

 
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See links in my signature

 
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Agree! No front sway for track use

I also cross and run

-front sway deleted
-front solid strut bar
-rear progress sway
-rear adjustable control arms
-lowered coilovers on 4 corners
-3 inch adaptors all round
-225 square stance
-cant remember degrees but negative all round (almost straight front, 1 inch tilted in on top, rear)
-30psi front 28 rear

 
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ah, you have a different generation car compared to a 05 - specific bars will not apply to your car.

 
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What's the reasoning for removing the front sway bar? Since it's a MacPherson strut setup more body roll equates to more negative camber on the front outside wheel therefore creating more traction?

 
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I'm not sure why it works but it is a known performance build for track cars.

Its steering related specifically an increase in sharp turning at speed.

I'd guess that while turning the shift in momentum, which causes body roll, also causes the inner tire (to the turn) to loose traction with the road; in effect causing the 4 wheel car to operate as a 3 wheel car, and turn on 1 wheel. Allowing sharper turns.

of course this is only possible with tight suspension without much travel, and increased grip on the remaining tires. Definitely not a good idea for a stock road car.

 
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the 3 wheeler is true.
By removing the bar, the wheels will be free to move (within suspension constraints), so they will not be "locked" to follow the chassis. The suspension will droop until the arms get to their limit. close to a solid axle. one side wheel try to follow the wheel on the other side.

to better explain, the extreme case of lifting the inside wheel works best

See lots of mazda3, mini, older gen civics, neon, older sentras lifting the rear inside wheel.
some BMW, spyder, porsche etc are setup such that will lift the front wheel. A 95 M did indeed lift front wheel a foot around the whole sweeper....

What it does in the extreme case that lifts the wheel?
It basically removes one traction point and moves all the load to the other three.
so, the end that needs more traction on that specific car will have more traction points (by removing one on the end that have too much traction)

Note that this will effectively reduce total traction by removing one tire, but the balance will be better.
Also, the lost traction is not 1/4, for the tire traction is dependent of the load applied to it, so remove one wheel and the load goes to the other three.

many cars does not get to that extreme (or might not even do it)