Rep Power: 0

I have a 2002 Civic ex coupe and have intermittent air conditioning.

I have a factory service manual (computer version) that I have been trying to follow to diagnose the problem.

My green light comes on but neither the compressor or either of the fans come on when it is not working. When it works all three come on and the air is cold.

There are no codes (blinking lights) when I run the cars self evaluation by pressing the recirc and ac button etc.

The FSM tells me that if no fans come on and the compressor doesn't kick in to troubleshoot the a/c pressure switch circuit.

My FSM states that it is for the 4-door and 5-door KE model but I have a 2-door coupe with trunk, I don't think they are different for the A/C troubleshooting (tell me if this is wrong).

I tested the A/C pressure switch 2P connector by turning on the ignition switch and placed a multimeter between the No. 2 connector (blue/Wht) and the negative battery terminal. It asks if I get batter voltage but the wiring picture shows a picture with the voltmeter and the symbol for continuity. This is where I'm a bit confused. I get 1.8 volts. I do not get the full battery voltage of 12.4 volts. Is it supposed to be the same voltage as the battery here?

I also went to the section that is if you answer no to the battery voltage and it says to check under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the connector still connected. Here I get the full 12.4 volts of the battery. The wire I'm touching in the fuse/relay box looks to be the same blue/wht wire that connects to the pressure switch. Do the voltages need to be the same?

I then, assuming that the wire is bad, took a jumper wire to give the blue/wht wire at the pressure switch connector the full 12.4 volts by jumping it to the positive battery cable. I, at the same time, jumped the pressure switch to the other connector to see if the fans and compressor would kick in with the full 12.4 volts power. It did not. I wanted to try the full power before routing a new wire from the fuse box inside the car all the way to the pressure switch connector. I'm glad I did.

Now I'm confused though.

The other way I could have gone, according to the FSM, was to check the pressure switch for continuity after turning the ignition switch off. I checked and it had no continuity between the two prongs.

It then says to check for proper AC system pressure. I had earlier checked the pressure when the compressor was running to be around 35 I think on the low side. The refrigerant bottle said that it was in the good range.

It says if the pressure is good then replace the pressure switch.

Before I go through with that process, does anyone think that it the problem?

Could it be the thermal protector? That thing looks rusty.

I'm lost at this point since I'm not sure if the 1.8 volts is enough voltage to consider batter voltage.

Suggestions?

 
Rep Power: 220

Place a jumper wire between the two terminals on the pressure switch socket (the wiring side) and see what happens when the engine is on with the AC on.
If the compressor turns on you know that the pressure switch is bad.

 
Rep Power: 0

I tried that and it still doesn't turn on.

What's next in line, the temperature regulator (not sure of the name, the sensor on top of the compressor that stops the system from starting due to overheating)?