A/C Problem
08-15-2015
#1
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A/C Problem
2002 Honda Civic HX, 215k miles on body, swapped engine to JDM at 180k miles.
The A/C is blowing hot air. I got a can of 134a refrigerant to refill it. The can has a pressure gage on it that reads from 0 kPa to 80 kPa. I turn the car on and put the A/C to full blast and leave the car running. I open the hood and attached the can of refrigerant to the low side port. The pressure gage immediately spikes off the chart beyond 80 kPa. I can tell that no refrigerant is leaving the can because the can is not turning cold.
Any clue what this means?
The A/C is blowing hot air. I got a can of 134a refrigerant to refill it. The can has a pressure gage on it that reads from 0 kPa to 80 kPa. I turn the car on and put the A/C to full blast and leave the car running. I open the hood and attached the can of refrigerant to the low side port. The pressure gage immediately spikes off the chart beyond 80 kPa. I can tell that no refrigerant is leaving the can because the can is not turning cold.
Any clue what this means?
08-15-2015
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Problem
2002 Honda Civic HX, 215k miles on body, swapped engine to JDM at 180k miles.
The A/C is blowing hot air. I got a can of 134a refrigerant to refill it. The can has a pressure gage on it that reads from 0 kPa to 80 kPa. I turn the car on and put the A/C to full blast and leave the car running. I open the hood and attached the can of refrigerant to the low side port. The pressure gage immediately spikes off the chart beyond 80 kPa. I can tell that no refrigerant is leaving the can because the can is not turning cold.
Any clue what this means?
The A/C is blowing hot air. I got a can of 134a refrigerant to refill it. The can has a pressure gage on it that reads from 0 kPa to 80 kPa. I turn the car on and put the A/C to full blast and leave the car running. I open the hood and attached the can of refrigerant to the low side port. The pressure gage immediately spikes off the chart beyond 80 kPa. I can tell that no refrigerant is leaving the can because the can is not turning cold.
Any clue what this means?
You need to pursue electrical stuff instead.
When you turn the AC on do the radiator fans kick on?
08-16-2015
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Problem
Wait wait wait..... google converter says 80kPa = 11 PSI?
You SURE your gauge reads in kPa?
You SURE your gauge reads in kPa?
08-16-2015
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Problem
80 is plenty of pressure to get the system to start operating.
Disconnect the 3 wire connector from the compressor, and ohm test between the outer two red wires. There should be continuity.
EDIT: The center wire operates the compressor clutch
Pull the connector off of the pressure switch, start the engine turn the AC on and check if there is a ground on the blue wire.
Disconnect the 3 wire connector from the compressor, and ohm test between the outer two red wires. There should be continuity.
EDIT: The center wire operates the compressor clutch
Pull the connector off of the pressure switch, start the engine turn the AC on and check if there is a ground on the blue wire.
Last edited by ezone; 08-16-2015 at 01:26 PM.
08-17-2015
#7
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Rep Power: 283 Re: A/C Problem
80 is plenty of pressure to get the system to start operating.
Disconnect the 3 wire connector from the compressor, and ohm test between the outer two red wires. There should be continuity.
EDIT: The center wire operates the compressor clutch
Pull the connector off of the pressure switch, start the engine turn the AC on and check if there is a ground on the blue wire.
Disconnect the 3 wire connector from the compressor, and ohm test between the outer two red wires. There should be continuity.
EDIT: The center wire operates the compressor clutch
Pull the connector off of the pressure switch, start the engine turn the AC on and check if there is a ground on the blue wire.
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