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Hi Everyone,

I have a 2001 Civic EX (automatic). Unfortunately, I know little to nothing about cars in general...so I'm usually at the mechanic's mercy when I have an issue with my car. Last week my engine light popped on (which, of course, concerned me), so I figured I'd see how the car was running before I rushed it to a mechanic. The next day the light went off on it's own--but then the next morning the light was on again. As I was accelerating up a slight hill (the same day), the car jerked a couple of times (I assumed it was a mis-fire), so I rushed it to a mechanic. They ran a diagnostic and it (supposedly) came up as P1259--which, all I can find for an explanation is "V-Tec (engine) malfunction." Well, that doesn't seem to explain much about the problem. The mechanic said the valves were a bit tight (I don't know what that means: how can a valve get tighter when no one has touched them?), but I'm not sure what that means (forgive my lack of knowledge). My car has 54K miles on it, and what is strange is this exact problem happened almost exactly a year ago. However, when I took it to a mechanic, they said the diagnostic came back as dirty oil. They changed the oil, re-set the light, and the car has ran fine since then. Now the problem is back.

I am a little worried that the mechanic is just trying to screw me out of more money than I really need to spend. It's been about a week and the car just jerked again going up a slight hill today (though it hasn't since the initial incident). The engine sounds fine otherwise--and seems to be running well. It has plenty of oil (which was changed about six weeks ago). Could it be bad fuel/gas? Could it just be bad spark plugs? Could this be a really major problem? I don't want to ignore the problem, but my car seems to be running fine otherwise. It's been fine the last week, except for the jerking this evening. The mechanic suggested a 60k mile tune-up, but he wanted to charge over 400 bucks to do it. I've never had any major problems with the car in the past. I always keep up with oil changes and the like. So what's the deal? I know it's hard to answer this question without looking at the car, but I thought I'd take a shot and ask anyway.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 
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PM yah.

 
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That is one hell of a good first post buddy.
Sorry I cant help you out.
Good luck

 
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Thanks, Chinaman, for checking out the code for me!

Does anyone else have any thoughts?

Thanks.

 
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P1259 is not a misfire. it is a malfunction in the vtec system. check your oil level to be sure it is full, and make sure your filter is screwed on and sealed properly. if its not that, im almost positive your vtec solenoid filter screen is clogged with dirt. same thing happened to me and i just took the solenoid off and cleaned the screen. put it all back and the light never came back. took me about an hour if that.

 
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Do I need to take the car to a Honda specialist or anything to get the Selenoid filter screen cleared out, or can I just take it to any mechanic?

Thanks!

 
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any mechanic. all you might need to do is take off the air filter housing, i had aftermarket intake so i didnt even do that. just unbolted the solenoid (3 bolts i think), unplugged the wire and pulled it off. its about as easy as installing an intake, prolly easier. the screen filter is delicate, so use a soft cloth to wipe away dirt. you can reuse the old one after cleaning or if youre worried just buy a new filter screen gasket from dealer and have someone change for you. but its really easy to diy.

 
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Gotcha. Thanks!
I
just had Auto Zone run a diagnostic...and believe it or not, P1259 was the only code popping up. The printout read "FUEL AIR METERING." I'm guessing you're right abouth the solenoid screen being clogged. I checked out the air filter and it's still in good shape.

Thanks!

 
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Here's the blurb from Mitchell online about the P1259 code and how to troubleshoot it for your 2001 EX. The links don't work on (see HOW TO BLAH BLAH) bits here, but you get the general idea.

DTC P1259: VTEC SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
Special Tools Required
* Pressure gauge adaptor 07NAJ-P07010A
* A/T low pressure gauge w/panel 07406-0070300
* A/T pressure hose 07406-0020201
* A/T pressure hose, 2,210 mm 07MAJ-PY4011A
* A/T pressure adaptor 07MAJ-PY40120
* Oil pressure hose 07ZAJ-S5AA200
1. Reset the ECM/PCM (see HOW TO RESET THE ECM/PCM ).
2. Check the engine oil level, and refill if necessary.
3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) unit the radiator fan comes on.
4. Road test the vehicle:
Accelerate in 1st gear to an engine speed over 4,000 rpm. Hold the engine speed for at least 2 seconds. If DTC P1259 is not repeated during the first road test, repeat this test 2 more times.
Is DTC P1259 indicated?
1. YES - Go to step 5.
2. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the VTEC solenoid valve, at the VTEC oil pressure switch, and at the ECM/PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Remove the resonator (see RESONATOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
7. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch 2P connector.
8. Check for continuity between the VTEC oil pressure switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
Fig. 2: Checking Continuity Between VTEC Oil Pressure Switch 2P Connector Terminals No. 1 & No. 2
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there continuity?
1. YES - Go to step 9.
2. NO - Replace the VTEC oil pressure switch.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
10. Measure voltage between VTEC oil pressure switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Fig. 3: Measuring Voltage Between VTEC Oil Pressure Switch 2P Connector Terminal No. 1 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there battery voltage?
1. YES - Go to step 15 .
2. NO - Go to step 11.
11. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal B9 and body ground.
Fig. 4: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal B9 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there battery voltage?
1. YES - Repair open in the wire between the VTEC oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM (B9).
2. NO - Go to step 12.
12. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
13. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
14. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal B9 and body ground.
Fig. 5: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal B9 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there continuity?
1. YES - Repair short in the wire between the VTEC oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM (B9).
2. NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/, then recheck (see ECM/PCM UPDATING, SUBSTITUTION AND REPLACEMENT ). If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/, replace the original ECM/PCM.
15. Measure voltage between VTEC oil pressure switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
Fig. 6: Measuring Voltage Between VTEC Oil Pressure Switch 2P Connector Terminals No. 1 & No. 2
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there battery voltage?
1. YES - Go to step 16.
2. NO - Repair open in the wire between the VTEC oil pressure switch and G101.
16. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
17. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector.
18. Check for resistance between VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector and body ground.
Fig. 7: Checking Resistance Between VTEC Solenoid Valve 1P Connector & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there 14-30 ohm?
1. YES - Go to step 19.
2. NO - Replace the VTEC solenoid valve (see VTEC Solenoid Valve Test ).
19. Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A), and install the special tools as shown, then reinstall the VTEC oil pressure switch.
Fig. 8: Removing VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
20. Reconnect the VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector and VTEC oil pressure switch 2P connector.
21. Connect a tachometer.
22. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) unit the radiator fan comes on.
23. Check the oil pressure at engine speeds of 1,000, 2,000, and 4,000 rpm. Keep the measuring time as short as possible (less than 1 minute) because the engine is running with no load.
Is the oil pressure below 49 kPa (0.5 kgf/cm2 , 7 psi)?
1. YES - Go to step 24.
2. NO - Inspect the VTEC solenoid valve (see VTEC Solenoid Valve Test ).
24. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
25. Disconnect the VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector.
26. Attach the battery positive terminal to the VTEC solenoid valve terminal.
27. Start the engine, and check the oil pressure at 3,000 rpm.
Is the oil pressure above 390 kPa (4.0 kgf/cm2 , 57 psi)?
1. YES - Go to step 28.
2. NO - Inspect the VTEC solenoid valve (see VTEC Solenoid Valve Test ).
28. With the battery positive terminal still connected to the VTEC solenoid valve, measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal B9 and body ground.
Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal B9 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there battery voltage above 4,000 rpm?
1. YES - Go to step 29.
2. NO - Replace the VTEC oil pressure switch.
29. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
30. Disconnect the battery positive terminal from the VTEC solenoid valve terminal.
31. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
32. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal B15 and body ground.
Fig. 10: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal B15 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there continuity?
1. YES - Repair short in the wire between the VTEC solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM (B15).
2. NO - Go to step 33.
33. Connect VTEC solenoid valve 1P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
Fig. 11: Connecting VTEC Solenoid Valve 1P Connector Terminal No. 1 To Body With Jumper Wire
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
34. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal B15 and body ground.
Fig. 12: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal B15 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is there continuity?
1. YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck (see ECM/PCM UPDATING, SUBSTITUTION AND REPLACEMENT ). If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.
2. NO - Repair open in the wire between the VTEC solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM (B15).

 
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An associate of mine mentioned it might be a faulty map sensor. ??

 
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MAP sensor will throw a different code. Check your oil level, check the fittings on the vtec solenoid and oil pressure sender - red circled connection and there is another behind it attached to the head (not in the picture). Make sure there are clean and good to go. Also make sure all the bolts are tight on the VTEC pressure sensor and solenoid. Get Autozone to clear the trouble code and see if it comes back. If it does, take it to a dealer and have them fix it.

 
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I just took it to a mechanic. They believe it's the OXYGEN SENSOR causing the problem. I guess I'll find out!

 
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always trust the computer o2 sensor may be a part of the problem but i doubt it. stick with ~foos he knows what hes doing

 
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where did you pull all that info foos???

 
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Mitchell's online service info. I'm using the membership through the base hobby shop and car club. SOB is like $500/month, so I'm going to use the crap out of it. It's what Jase's "mechanic" should be using too. O2 sensor's throw a different code.

 
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You're right. They said it wasn't the problem. They recommended taking it to the dealer. They recommend having the internal computer update. They said it may be a glitch that needs to be updated. He didn't seem to know what solenoid to check as gearbox recommended. This issue is getting annoying because now I blew money on something that didn't need to be fixed. Gerrrrr!

 
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I finally grew enough brains to call a honda dealership. The guy said P1259 is almost always triggered due to low oil. He said that low oil could definitely make the car "jerk." I guess having low oil can cause the Vtec to stop working. I wish I would have had the foresight to contact a dealership first. I guess I learned the hard way.

 
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Huh. Engine oil was low. Imagine that. Guess its why its the second step!

 
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nice foos!

 
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Well, I had the oil changed, and I still have experienced the same problem: random jerking when accelerating up hills. I'm thinking it's either the vtec oil pressure switch or the vtec solenoid valve. Excuse my ignorance, but are these pricey parts to buy? I'm probably going to take it to a dealership, but I want to be sure they are fair on the prices on parts.

 
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sorry i forgot about this. ill post a pic tomorrow of the solenoid. i imagine those parts are expensive. and i wouldnt just go replacing parts because usually this stuff doesnt just fail. check the filter screen first and clean that.

 
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I believe you're right. The problem is intermittent, random. I'll have a mechanic friend check out the filter for me. Thanks for taking the pic, gearbox! You've been a big help!

 
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the solenoid is the piece where the blue wire goes into. you can see the top cylinder piece thats only the upper half of the whole thing, that unbolts and can be cleaned inside, but the whole thing needs to come off to get to the screen filter and thats underneath. you can see the bolts in the second pic. it may be hard to get to depending on what your engine bay looks like. i have aftermarket intake and already removed some non essential brackets, so its pretty easy for me. you may need socket extender too.

 
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Thanks so much, gearbox! This is a huge help!

 
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the whole thing is on the right, and at the bottom you can see the screen gasket (B). i would also take the top part off and push on the lil button to make sure it isnt getting stuck.