Vexorg

P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Honda civic 2001 ex coupe

I received this error about two weeks ago while driving on the highway. I've checked around on some threads and haven't found anything useful.

My oil levels are normal and I'm not to sure what I should check next. I have an obd tool so I was thinking I would clear the code to see if it comes back.

My car seems a little sluggish but I don't want to go to the stealership just yet.

Any recommendations?

ezone

Got freeze frame data from when the code was set?

Possibilities may include:
Low oil level
Solenoid didn't work
Valve got stuck
Switch didn't work
Wasn't enough oil pressure to operate the system
Screen clogged
Rodents ate some of the wires

A good service manual will have test procedures and information to check it.



Clear the code.
Make sure the oil is full and correct.
And clean. (When was the last oil change?)

Drive it, make sure to go well over 4000 RPM in 1st gear
See what happens


I can manually operate the solenoid, listen for the change in the sound of the engine when the valvetrain actuates, and watch the response of the switch...all with jumper wires and a test light.
I can do a lot of the same using the scanner too.

HTH

Vexorg

Thx for your reply ezone.

I don't have the tools to get the freeze frame data.
The oil level looks fine.
I've cleared the code and im going to try and drive or 4000 RPM to see what happens (its an auto).

Vexorg

Hey,

After being able to diagnose this myself I ended up taking it to the Honda dealership (i know, i know).

They are trying to save that the VTEC Spool Valve needs replacement and this will cost $400.

Is this a rip off or something I should just do myself?

fusion158

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, its a rip off, they tried to do that to my wife before I started to do that maintenance on the car. Take the valve off, clean the gauze filter it has and give the valve a clean too and see if that help.

Are you due for an oil change? I found that the light often came up when i was over due for an oil change.

Vexorg

Well I changed my oil about 4 months ago.

I'm just curious because it feels like my car over-revs at speeds where it shouldn't (20-30mph). Would cleaning the spool prevent me from having to replace it (and possibly be the cause of the over-revving) ?

Matt_75

The whole assembly below is $146 plus shipping. Piece #9. Piece #10 and 21 are two of the three gasket/screen and o-ring that can be replaced in the below drawing.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...28SOHC+VTEC%29

The below drawing has the third o-ring that isn't shown in the above drawing. It's on a prelude but it's the correct o-ring for your vtec solenoid. Piece #17.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=CYLINDER+HEAD

Three bolts and two connectors and a little loss of oil. It could just be your screen maybe that's clogged. You'd have to take it off and check. I would try taking it off, actuating the unit and replacing all three gaskets/o-rings. Spray it out with some brake cleaner even. Put it back together and see what you get. Pretty cheap for all three gaskets/o-rings. Maybe even some contact cleaner in the connections. If not, worst case you could spend $146 plus shipping for a new unit.

Good luck.

Vexorg

Whether or not I decide to clean the valve screen or replace the entire thing, is this something I can do with regular tools?

I've done basic maintenance like changing the oil, spark plug, changing brake pads and stuff. If all I need is a repair manual /guides and the normal tools ill just do it myself.

Matt_75

Yes, if you some mechanical skills, you can do this.

That's how it all started for me. It went from doing oil/trans fluid changes to doing the timing belt to replacing the head gasket myself.

Link to civic factory service manual below.

http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto...Civic01-05.zip

Vexorg

Thanks a lot man, you've been a big help.

I'm pretty mechanical and a big DIY person. As long as I don't need an impact wrench or need to lift the motor out of the car I should be fine.

Vexorg

Hey Guys,

So I ended up taking the VTEC Spool valve apart and taking a look inside to check if the o-rings needed replacement or the screen was clogged. It was much easier than I expected.

Not only was the screen NOT clogged, the o-rings looked very new and were undamaged. Additionally, I was able to depress the valve and that seems to be working correctly. I'm glad I didn't spend $400 for them to replace anything.

I wasn't able to test the resistance however.

The top of the spool valve is rusted, but I don't think that's any indicator if I should replace anything.
(see pictures here: https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public/...0spool%20valve)

The engine light is now off so I dont believe the issue was with the valve.

I did however notice the oil in my car is low and I will be replacing that later this week.

What do you guys think?

Matt_75

I think you should have changed the gaskets/orings while you had it off. You also should have changed the screen since it's also a gasket. I think you should keep your oil level up to keep from getting the CEL. I think you should probably figure out where your oil is leaking from and fix it. If you're burning it, you need to keep an eye on the level.

ezone

Took me to a login screen. Fail.

Simply apply power and ground from the car battery, listen for the solenoid to click.


First item on my list that I posted in my first reply to this thread said
Possibilities may include:
Low oil level

Low oil level is THE MOST COMMON cause of this code.

Vexorg

Hey sorry about the link, should be fixed now.

And yup I saw that originally posted but I like to confirm before making any decisions.

ezone

You know, in your first post you said "My oil levels are normal and I'm not to sure what I should check next."
But that was back in August?

I have seen a couple of the pressure switches be bad, but they work most of the time. Once in a great while they didn't switch when they should. Darn tough to prove though.

------

Seems like most of the times that low oil causes the code (when they show up at the shop), the engine is more than 2 quarts down. Completely off of --- not touching the dipstick when checked.

Regardless, you shouldn't let the engine oil get below the ADD mark on the dipstick.
Some things (piston rings, for one) get lubricated by oil splash. When the oil gets super low, those parts don't get adequate lubrication. Accelerated wear happens to those parts, and consequently oil consumption increases even more.

Some people actually pay the checkout fee every time the check engine light comes on--- only to be told it is time to change the oil yet again, and to fix the real engine problem it needs a rebuild.
The engine consumes oil. By the time it is due for the oil change, it is about 3 quarts low. They would rather pay the fees than lift the hood or read the reminder sticker.

It's a tax.

And I still got the login screen in the link above. Tried IE and Firefox. Oh well.


HTH