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Hello, I recently purchased a 2003 civic to use as a commuter car. Everything was fine until I hit about 50 miles on the car and it hit a CEL. Oh well. So I went ahead and tried to scan it with codes at Advance today. The car would not scan. I figured it would be a issue with the scanner. So I grabbed a friends scanner and blue tooth scanner. Both would not work. My friends bluetooth scanner however had enough power to power on and register but not work.

My Cigarette adapter works. I checked all fuses under the the hood and they look good. Any idea on how to remedy this? The strangest part is that after it leaves the check engine light again? But still cannot OBD2 again.... any ideas on how I could get my obd2 port working again?

Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 518

Did it lose power? Limit RPM to about 3000? Gauges go haywire?


DO you mean there is a problem with power or ground in the plug, as in the code reader does not power up?

Or do you mean the code reader powers up but cannot communicate with the engine computer?


Fuse #9 (10A) in the engine compartment box supplies power to the DLC.

 
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I am experiencing the problem above discribed by Ezone, gauges go haywire and loss of power above 3000 rpms. Along with an inability for the obd2 to communicate with my ECU. Any ideas?

 
Rep Power: 119

 
Rep Power: 518

Check if someone forgot to tighten all of the alternator mounting bolts.......if bolts were left loose that can and will burn out the PCM. Same can happen if engine/trans ground straps have rotted apart or are otherwise electrically compromised.


Search the forum for all sorts of info on this.

 
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I bought a used ECU and tried to have it flashed at the dealer but they explained that because of the communication issue they were unable to retrieve the information they needed to flash the one I had bought. Is there an alternate way of flashing the needed information onto the ECU I bought? Or if not, what would be the next step from here?

 
Rep Power: 518

FIRST and foremost the root cause of PCM failure must be found and corrected.

Otherwise, you'll just ruin the next PCM.....which can get pretty damn expensive.

 
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Looking at the alternator, I found that the stud connecting it to the tensioner bracket is snapped. So from what you've said that is likely to have caused the odd voltage shorting out and burning up my ECU?

 
Rep Power: 518

Absolutely.

Fix that. Correctly.

If you're insanely lucky the PCM might work again after you get that fixed. I wouldn't hold my breath though, usually once a PCM has lost communication, it's junk.

 
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If after I fix the alternator the ECU doesn't work. How would I go about flasing a new ECU concidering the communication issue? or will fixing the alternator allow me to retrieve the information nessicary to flash a new one?

 
Rep Power: 518

Hmm. Extracting info from the old unit.....It's not absolutely necessary to do it that way.
I wonder if they are having a rookie do it.





I can do it as long as I have all of your keys so they all can be registered during the programming.

 
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How much would you charge?

 
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Our shop charges a flat fee for programming (keys, software, most basic diags, any other computer hookup) @ 1 hour shop labor rate fee


Other shops may differ significantly, call your local and ask

 
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Where is your shop located?

 
Rep Power: 518

From what I can see, about 28 hours away from you