Rep Power: 0

Running lean is bad, I know, I am getting tuned thursday. I am not hitting boost 98% of the time while I drive, but before I hit 00psi, I run lean. Right around -5hg to -1hg. Is this bad for my car, or does that happen when there is turbo lag? I have never had a boosted car, so Im unsure of what exactly happens to the fuel when there is the lag. I feel/hear it building pretty good pressure around -4 or -3, but it runs lean. I am only at about 1/3 throttle at the most. Should I add fuel around 2-2500 rpms?? That is where it is happening most. I have the TSI control unit for fuel, so I can only adjust fuel by boost and rpms, and for boost I can only add for 0-14, so nothing for the negative vaccum.(I cant spell right now, I know how to spell that though, sorry if its wrong (vaccum)).

Thanks a lot

Peace

 
Rep Power: 0

is anybody out there.... ::rogerwaters::

 
Rep Power: 0

I've never dealt with the TSI Control Unit.
But, before I got my car tuned, It was running lean at all RPM's ...
Mostly those 2500/3000RPM's when spool beggins. I have the S-AFCII.
So what I did was add fuel on all the section's that it needed.
S-AFC run from -50 to +50. So I dont know how much your's vary from 0-14.
But if you have an A/F gauge.. << just go by that...
Add as much as you need at all RPM's. even at 1000 (Idle)<<< there is still Vacuum going on there, so you're running lean there as well....
Just raise it to Rich (till you get it tuned) and you should be strait.

 
Rep Power: 0

all boost levels are rich, it is before I reach boost. You know when vacuum pressure is building up, before boost kicks in. Like it should be around -20hg idle, and it goes up as you press on the gas (build pressure). Once you hit 0hg, it goes to 0psi, than up in psis. Before I hit boost, it is lean around -5 up to -2or3. Does that happen to you? i cant wait to get tuned. I have added fuel at those rpms, with no luck. I dont want to add too much and keep my car from starting.

 
Rep Power: 0

this could be normal for turbolag. I am not sure?????

 
Rep Power: 0

1.Well for one thing... I've had to add lots of Fuel at certain spots more then other's..
I think the only way you car would'nt be able to start . Is if you raise your Fuel Pressure Regulator, Or and if you are DUMPING loads of gas at 1000-2000RMS's....<< other then that, your car should be able to start.
2.What kinda Fuel setup are you using.

Fuel PUMP?
Fuel Injectors?
Return Line?

 
Rep Power: 284

do you know exactly how lean ur running? I run anywhere in between 15.5 to 14.5 lambda AFR from -10mmgh to -01.

Right before you go under boost the ECU retards the timing 28 degrees, dunno if that has anything to do with it, but figured out i'd throw that out there.


Are you running a narrowband A/F gauge? If so, are you basing that you're running lean because the gauge appears "lean"? Mine appears "Lean" in that area but is actually around the mid 14's which is about Stoich on my wideband.

 
Rep Power: 0

True to that!.I did find that out on the Dyno's Wideband.
It wasnt as low, as you're gauge may show ya.

<<<<< Me in other hand, am running to rich, I need to play with S-AFC settings again a lil bit,.. When I switch gears, you can even see a black Pffff of smoke, off how rich I run. If you stand behind the car, you can even smell FUEL.

 
Rep Power: 284

Whoa, that like-------> RICH!
Do you have an adjust rate % or vaccum change ACYC feature on ur S-AFC (sorry, i'm not familiar with it)

A blow off valve actually produces a rich condition when it blows off. If you have a vaccum change injection control feature on the safc then u should be able to turn that down. I bet for daily driving it runs hella lean into the next gear and then straightens out. Similar thing kinda happened to me. My ACYC was set too high and everytime i shifted under moderate boost the AFR bumped up to the 8s! Then the next gear for only a sec was hella lean, like 20s (not under boost)

same here, but only when ya crank it

 
Rep Power: 0

cool, Im not so worried now. It was doing it from -5hg to -1hg. After that its rich. It smells like gas, but not way way rich. Ive questioned others noses with that. Its not blowing out white or black smoke, so it should be ok. I havent seen any at least, I will try to look again today. Im getting tuned tomorrow, so Ill see what they do. I think its just the turbo lag.

I have no idea how lean or rich, cuz its a narrowband sensor. Since I had to spend about an extra grand on top of the kit, I couldnt afford that quite yet. Very soon though.

It will be wideband dynojet tuned though. So its gonna be perfect (hopefully). They are a good shop.

My list of sh** I need is as follows:
exedy organic
wideband
have a couple pipes remade to have better fitment and normal right hand turns, lol
brackets for IC, or welded on to the frame
greddy emanage or EMS if out soon

Its gonna be an easy 7,000 gone after everything is complete for running about 8 lbs reliably. way more than I expected, I knew Id spend a couple extra grand, but it went up more and more and more. oh well, its worth it, IMO.

EternalBlueVic- Can you explain the retarding 28 degrees a little more. I was unaware of that. I thought the timing would stay the same, unless you have emanage. You shouldnt run more than 5lbs w/out retarding the timing (properly tuned), or you can go hella lean causing predetonation. When it gets hotter out, it will cause the predetonation, and even though TSIs unit says it hepls with the adjust rate I believe. That wont help, it makes people feel better, but will not help at all with not needing to retard the timing. The shop thats tuning my car said they wouldnt tune it, cuz i cant retard the timing, and I asked how much can be run w/o doing it. They said 5lbs is completely fine, but over that they will not tune until I get emanage or EMS. So thats what their setting it for. Ill be ok for a month or 2 with 5lbs, since all the cars suck around here anyways, beat down ricer cars with no hubcaps or painted, or spinning ones. I swear most every car sucks in Phoenix thats an Import

 
Rep Power: 0

I am lean for just a sec, than it goes rich quickly. so its only not under boost, when I hit boost it stays pretty rich, not sure how much though, right when it switched from lean to boost (when tuning) we added a little more to keep it rich.

 
Rep Power: 0

ummm, Its pretty normal actually(now).. lol
If you only knew how high I have my External FPR
It used to be like that, Runing rich as hell back when in boost, but normal driving, it was normal, a bit lean, NOT BAD LEAN though.
So I raised my Fuel Pressure, and I raised the amount I dump in the lower RPM's.
I dont knw how E-manage works.
But S-AFCII has 2 Settings... >>> Tuning for when in HI-Throttle
Tunning for LOW-Throttle
So to fix that normal (daily driving problem) I just raised the fuel on low trottle RPMS.

What I mean about 2 settings, is.
1000-7000RPMS- High Throttle
1000-7000RPMS- Low Throttle

2 different tunnings^^^^

 
Rep Power: 0

You should get something other than the VAFCII to tune your sh**. How many lbs are you running? I bet your summers get hot as hell in FL, huh? Thats a good reason not to run more than 5psi. Get the emanage when you can afford it. Id save some cash up. I only save like a hundred a week, but I save enough to get what I need.

i whooped some stupid kid in a minivan a few minutes ago. He cut me off once, got back in the other lane. I saw him speed up to get in front of me, so I gave it like 3-4 throttle to 4000 rpms. The kids face was like, WTF? He was stupid. I am not proud of that kill, I wasnt trying, just pissed that his stupid *** was trying to cut me off again.

I am pissed that I hit 6 psi when its set for 2, and I wasnt at WOT.

Anybody want to give me some directions for hooking up a greddy profec-b? I need to hook this up TODAY, before my tune tomorrow morning. I am unsure of where the in and out are supposed to connect to. and if I have to reuse TSIs boost reading thing as well???? Anybody?

Me - 1
Dodge Caravan - 0

hahahaha, Im j/p around.

 
Rep Power: 299

speaking of "hot as hell", i see your from scottsdale (which is WAY hotter than FL!) Did you get a larger intercooler or anything to compensate for the 105+ degree summers? Are you goona lower the boost on hot days? Maybe down the line you could install a Air/Water intercooler, that would be cool to do.

 
Rep Power: 284

It's all right here:

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=171315

 
Rep Power: 284

You will peak at what the actuator is rated at even when using a boost controller. Peak at .4 bar (with yours) then it'll drop to what the pop off is set too.

 
Rep Power: 284

Try to do what i did. My intercooler is larger than TSI's so i dunno how difficult it would be but:

I tig welded two tabs, one on each endtank, and then bolted it to the front impact brace. here's a pic \/\/\/

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for all the info. One more question. The MAP box they send w/the kit is to keep the MAP from freakin out. So it basically alters the signal. Would it still retard the timing when using a MAP box. It seems as if it wouldnt see the change in boost, and just stay stock the whole time, which is why I think it wouldnt be retarding the timing. Did that make any sense? I understand things better than explaining. I suck at explaining.

Peace

 
Rep Power: 284

the ECU still retards the ignition regardless of if you're boosted or n/a

 
Rep Power: 0

ok, cool. So why is the emanage needed? So you can accurately adjust the timing for reliable boost and most HP? I finally found a shop that will weld my IC. They specialize in VWs, and welding ICs (aluminum) and stuff like that is part of what they do. So Im glad about that. Now I need my clutch, pipes remade for a few of the crappy ones w/the kit, and tune. I may have a boost leak in one of my pipes, right next to the pulley. It has gotten shaved down some, and possibly a hole in it. I really need some new piping, as well as the intake w/filter. Get rid of that flexihose thing. its all coming together nicely though.

 
Rep Power: 0

what kind of intake w/filter are you talking bout?? U can use a SRI with turbos or something. I'm sorry i've never gotten that part about turbo's where people have the air filters on them. I understand what they are for but just not for what they used or how it can be put on there. Did that make sense? but i am basically asking can u use SRI or CAI with turbo?? Please don't flame me for that question thanks.

 
Rep Power: 284

Yup. With the ignition harness, you can adjust the ECU to keep from retarding the ignition timing

 
Rep Power: 284

As i'm sure you know, when boosted, your intake is relocated from the throttle to the compressor. All sri's and cai's are designed and bent to work from the throttle body. All you have to do is take an SRI or CAI and cut it into pieces you can use and connect them using rubber couplings. Here's the intake that comes with the TSI kit as on 2K1Civic17"Gabe's car (just a rubber hose and intake filter):




And here's what a AEM SRI looks modified to fit on my kit:






And here's a better pic \/\/\/ (Help any?)

 
Rep Power: 0

that rubber hose reminded me of a big ***** when I first pulled it out. Like in the pornos when a girl has the giant ones. It bounces back and forth and sh**. lol


edit - hey eternalblue, you know how the rubber intake hose was a bitch to get on, cuz the ripples in it? Is a regular tube a lot easier. I dont feel like dealing with that right now, but I have a CAI that could be easily modified to work, and look sick as f***!.

 
Rep Power: 284

/\/\ It's still a pain to work with such a tight spot, so it's realy no different, but not only does it look great but it really helps you spool faster and makes the compressor ALOT louder

 
Rep Power: 0

like this kit doesnt spool fast enough, lol. the second Im on it, it spooled. I got a CAI that I can modify for this, I checked it out last night, and will probably be hacking it up this week, maybe not though cuz I got kids this week.

What kind of settings are you running BTW. Mine are set at 30 for boost. and anything less was lean they said. This was with only a couple pulls, but said I was at a 14:1 ratio when set around 0=10, 1=12, 2=14, 3=16, etc.

They set it at 30 and said its correct now, they could only get a couple pulls with my clutch, so they'll do them all proper in a couple weeks, they didnt charge for this one.
I am hating the TSI unit though. It is still resetting on me. Where did you ground the electronics for the TSI unit? I reqired everthing last night, found a few F'ups, fixed it all, not it resets on me still. I found a ground that worked once, than it stopped working all of a sudden and reset again. So maybe I need a "special" lol ground spot thats magical in my car or something. I spent hours and hours and hours trying to fix this stupid little piece of sh** unit that TSI calls a fuel controller. I really love TSI, but HATE their crappy unit.