N2O question for 7th gen
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ah man that sucks
Originally posted by konstanting
also about N20, here in ga (so i heard) its illegal to use N20 on the road...so u might wanna considere if you realy wanna use it for everyday use, especially on the road...plus u will have to get alot of nitrious.
also about N20, here in ga (so i heard) its illegal to use N20 on the road...so u might wanna considere if you realy wanna use it for everyday use, especially on the road...plus u will have to get alot of nitrious.
damn ga cops are gay as hell like the rest of the population! anyway
would you guys recommend a supercharger with small amounts of N2O?
because the supercharger is better for everyday driving right? i read it somewhere in the FAQs about turbo only being better for racing and SC being better for everyday driving with a little more "oomph". anyway with a little "pep" of nitrous do you guys think its adviseable?
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From: Dekalb, Georgia
Rep Power: 0 also with the N2O and from wha the dude ahead of me said, which is better for our ivic's because i read the faq's and one said the dry was better then the other said the wet was better. i have an 02 civic lx and i just want a kick (also if you could answer my question about a supercharger and n2O at the same time.)
apart from that which would all of you truly recommend on the civic?
60 shot of zex (or 55) or is there a better N2O system that will help. i know nitrous express is cool too from a friend i met. please let me know all thanks a bunch!!! blah
apart from that which would all of you truly recommend on the civic?
60 shot of zex (or 55) or is there a better N2O system that will help. i know nitrous express is cool too from a friend i met. please let me know all thanks a bunch!!! blah
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by skaird01
also with the N2O and from wha the dude ahead of me said, which is better for our ivic's because i read the faq's and one said the dry was better then the other said the wet was better. i have an 02 civic lx and i just want a kick (also if you could answer my question about a supercharger and n2O at the same time.)
apart from that which would all of you truly recommend on the civic?
60 shot of zex (or 55) or is there a better N2O system that will help. i know nitrous express is cool too from a friend i met. please let me know all thanks a bunch!!! blah
also with the N2O and from wha the dude ahead of me said, which is better for our ivic's because i read the faq's and one said the dry was better then the other said the wet was better. i have an 02 civic lx and i just want a kick (also if you could answer my question about a supercharger and n2O at the same time.)
apart from that which would all of you truly recommend on the civic?
60 shot of zex (or 55) or is there a better N2O system that will help. i know nitrous express is cool too from a friend i met. please let me know all thanks a bunch!!! blah
-Joey
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From: phillipines
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why do they always say its not possible to have a 100 shot? is it really not possible? even with the pistons rods new manifold and all?
i mean..hasnt it been done before?
why do they always say its not possible to have a 100 shot? is it really not possible? even with the pistons rods new manifold and all?
i mean..hasnt it been done before?
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 its possible... ill probably get flamed for this, but im TRYING to build my motor for a 100 shot, but you HAVE to realize its gonna be a slow tedious process to make it SAFE. you or me or anyone COULD got bolt on a 100 shot and it MIGHT work once or twice, but its far from safe and will harm your engine. i finally found a good shop that i trust to work on my car, were trying to build the engine to handle the 100 shot... shop around and find someone you trust if youre serious about it, i drive to another state to have work done on my car because i trust them and theres a lack of quality shops here... kentucky sucks! 
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 ohh, and like i said even though im still planning on running the 100 shot eventually, right now ive got the minimum shot from my kit on, the 55. im going to get my purge kit on soon, we'll check the spark plugs for any signs of detonation, and if there are none, ill move to the next shot, the 65. i know you want to have a little honda rocket, but take it slow and be careful... 
my fooking posts keep getting longer and longer.
my fooking posts keep getting longer and longer.
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From: phillipines
Rep Power: 0 yea..i found a machanic thats good..i think, they have a 10.70 car..so i think he knows something, they mainly make custom turbos but N2O on a larger scale i think not, and i think 7th gens are a little diffrent so thats why im askin you guys. so basically all the info i get from you guys i tell him like the plastic intake manifold..thank god i knew that one before i got the N2O(backfire).
so..this is what i should get so far to have the 100 shot :
fuel pump (have a v-afc so i think that'll help for making it run rich ryt?)
injector (240cc..is that ok?)
pistons n rods
direct port
custom intake manifold
Jacobs nitrous mastermind (still thinkn how to get this one..)
headgasket
what do you think 01WingsWestCivic? will this be a good move?
how about you..what are your plans on you little rocket?
so..this is what i should get so far to have the 100 shot :
fuel pump (have a v-afc so i think that'll help for making it run rich ryt?)
injector (240cc..is that ok?)
pistons n rods
direct port
custom intake manifold
Jacobs nitrous mastermind (still thinkn how to get this one..)
headgasket
what do you think 01WingsWestCivic? will this be a good move?
how about you..what are your plans on you little rocket?
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by zinkyroo
have fun paying all that money for ****ing nitrous. just buy a turbo christ
have fun paying all that money for ****ing nitrous. just buy a turbo christ
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by GreenNVicious
150 shot? that one shot will be your first and last, enjoy it while it lasts
150 shot? that one shot will be your first and last, enjoy it while it lasts
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From: Dekalb, Georgia
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by 01WingsWestCivic
ohh, and like i said even though im still planning on running the 100 shot eventually, right now ive got the minimum shot from my kit on, the 55. im going to get my purge kit on soon, we'll check the spark plugs for any signs of detonation, and if there are none, ill move to the next shot, the 65. i know you want to have a little honda rocket, but take it slow and be careful...
my fooking posts keep getting longer and longer.
ohh, and like i said even though im still planning on running the 100 shot eventually, right now ive got the minimum shot from my kit on, the 55. im going to get my purge kit on soon, we'll check the spark plugs for any signs of detonation, and if there are none, ill move to the next shot, the 65. i know you want to have a little honda rocket, but take it slow and be careful...
my fooking posts keep getting longer and longer.
thanks for the help buddy
and good research and asking detox
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by skaird01
ok wings thanks for the info and the help but now i have a few more questions. what does the purge kit do and checking for this detonation...whats the beig deal with that? and if i get the zex how do i check to see if my plugs detonated? other than this last question....which do you think would be better now with your experience with the zex....nitrous express or zex still?
thanks for the help buddy
and good research and asking detox
ok wings thanks for the info and the help but now i have a few more questions. what does the purge kit do and checking for this detonation...whats the beig deal with that? and if i get the zex how do i check to see if my plugs detonated? other than this last question....which do you think would be better now with your experience with the zex....nitrous express or zex still?
thanks for the help buddy
and good research and asking detox
-joey
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From: Dekalb, Georgia
Rep Power: 0 detoX from the research ive been doing laely i think the safest way to go without mods is 35 to 55. 60 is chances the safest way without mods. i read this on a couple of n20 sites and some supercharger and turbo sites as well. and i think you're right to an extent on the chip. i dont think honda would make reliable cars with gas going lean. wouldnt make sense they'd burn out faster than sephias. other than that its whatever
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Rep Power: 0 wings, do you need any extra fuel mods for a 50 or I guess your 55 shot. I am about to buy a nx kit for my car and I want to make sure I am not going to blow anything up. Im planning on running a 50 shot and was wondering if I need a fuel pump or injectors or even just a vafc?
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From: Anniston, Alabama, US
Rep Power: 305 From what ZEX recommends, a 50 or so shot is the most you can safely add and still have your block last a while.
A wet kit adds fuel at the same time, since by adding more air, you also need more fuel to keep the right ratio. Running to low a ratio, too much air, and the fuel inside the piston actually detonates before it should. This is called running too lean and it will destroy your engine. Running too fuel much hurts performance and wastes fuel, fouls the plugs, and eventually destroys your cat.
The reason you can only add so much nitrous is that the pistons, rods, head gasket, and valves can only handle so much pressure as they are currently built. Sure you can build a tougher engine, it only costs more. But not only will it handle more boost (either from n20, turbo, or super), but it will have more horsepower to begin with.
Our fuel system sucks because a returnless fuel system gives the motor just about all it needs in STOCK form. It was not designed to give more, and it cannot be easily tweaked to provide more. The way to increase more fuel in older Civics was to increase the pressure. Basically taking the pressure from 50 psi to 70 psi. Our regulator is inside the tank and changing it won't give us more.
To change the fuel system for a serious increase in horsepower (more HP means more fuel), you would change to a new fuel pump, increased size in fuel line, new fuel rail (bigger and more connections), external regulator, and adding a fuel return line. Sounds simple, but those mods will cost about 1000 dollars. But this will always give you enough fuel to increase your horsepower.
I guess what everyone is trying to tell you is there is no such thing as a free lunch. You are not adding a bottle in your trunk and going to be faster and faster.
As for a D series being a piece of junk, it is not. The only thing that is not optimum is that they only have one cam. Two cams optimize the valves a bit better, but a good race car can and has been built using a SOHC.
You can go either all motor and build it, add a turbo, supercharger (someday, but not now), or motor swap it. Of course you could do all of it and have a 300 horsepower Civic that snaps axles, but that is another topic.
A wet kit adds fuel at the same time, since by adding more air, you also need more fuel to keep the right ratio. Running to low a ratio, too much air, and the fuel inside the piston actually detonates before it should. This is called running too lean and it will destroy your engine. Running too fuel much hurts performance and wastes fuel, fouls the plugs, and eventually destroys your cat.
The reason you can only add so much nitrous is that the pistons, rods, head gasket, and valves can only handle so much pressure as they are currently built. Sure you can build a tougher engine, it only costs more. But not only will it handle more boost (either from n20, turbo, or super), but it will have more horsepower to begin with.
Our fuel system sucks because a returnless fuel system gives the motor just about all it needs in STOCK form. It was not designed to give more, and it cannot be easily tweaked to provide more. The way to increase more fuel in older Civics was to increase the pressure. Basically taking the pressure from 50 psi to 70 psi. Our regulator is inside the tank and changing it won't give us more.
To change the fuel system for a serious increase in horsepower (more HP means more fuel), you would change to a new fuel pump, increased size in fuel line, new fuel rail (bigger and more connections), external regulator, and adding a fuel return line. Sounds simple, but those mods will cost about 1000 dollars. But this will always give you enough fuel to increase your horsepower.
I guess what everyone is trying to tell you is there is no such thing as a free lunch. You are not adding a bottle in your trunk and going to be faster and faster.
As for a D series being a piece of junk, it is not. The only thing that is not optimum is that they only have one cam. Two cams optimize the valves a bit better, but a good race car can and has been built using a SOHC.
You can go either all motor and build it, add a turbo, supercharger (someday, but not now), or motor swap it. Of course you could do all of it and have a 300 horsepower Civic that snaps axles, but that is another topic.
7thgen Man-gina
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From: Louisville, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by rino
wings, do you need any extra fuel mods for a 50 or I guess your 55 shot. I am about to buy a nx kit for my car and I want to make sure I am not going to blow anything up. Im planning on running a 50 shot and was wondering if I need a fuel pump or injectors or even just a vafc?
wings, do you need any extra fuel mods for a 50 or I guess your 55 shot. I am about to buy a nx kit for my car and I want to make sure I am not going to blow anything up. Im planning on running a 50 shot and was wondering if I need a fuel pump or injectors or even just a vafc?
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From: Davao
Rep Power: 0 01WingsWestCivic pls help me out, i have a zex dry kit, coz the store here insist on using dry type, and im having doubts to all od this, but im just planing to use the 55shot jet. and i was wondering bcoz thers a fuel jet with the dry kit. those this control the fuel pressure? pls help me out dont want to detonate my engine
The fuel jet on the dry kit is supposed to feed nitrous pressure to the diapragm of the the fuel pressure regulator on a return-style fuel system. This pressure closes the return line, increasing rail pressure and hence increasing fuel to the cylinders while nitrous is being fed.
Our cars DO NOT have return-style fuel systems and hence this set-up will not work. If the shop you are dealing with is telling you that they will only install a dry kit on your car, RUN AWAY! They obviously don't know what they are doing. The only way to safely squeeze on a car with a returnless system like ours is to use a kit that adds it's own fuel and does not rely on the stock system. If you install a dry 50 shot on a D17 you had better have enough cash for a K20 swap because your engine is as good as gone.
If you want to squeeze, you either need a wet kit or direct-port. Direct port is preferable as it injects directly to the cylinders, minimizing the chances of a nitrous backfire which would blow your intake manifold to pieces. A wet kit will typically work fine, but it does mean the intake manifold must flow a fuel-air mixture instead of the dry air which it was designed for, which can cause pooling and the aforementioned backfire. However, direct port cost is quite a bit more, install is more difficult and it is more of a pain to remove for warranty work, etc.
For those running 60+ hp, are you aware of any internal improvements on the D17 over the D16 in terms of strength? I am not, and with a longer stroke, piston speed is even higher than the D16, which means additional forces on the reciprocating assembly. It is pretty well accepted that D-series over 50hp don't last long. Is there something I don't know that exempts the D17 from this rule, or are you guys just taking your chances?
Our cars DO NOT have return-style fuel systems and hence this set-up will not work. If the shop you are dealing with is telling you that they will only install a dry kit on your car, RUN AWAY! They obviously don't know what they are doing. The only way to safely squeeze on a car with a returnless system like ours is to use a kit that adds it's own fuel and does not rely on the stock system. If you install a dry 50 shot on a D17 you had better have enough cash for a K20 swap because your engine is as good as gone.
If you want to squeeze, you either need a wet kit or direct-port. Direct port is preferable as it injects directly to the cylinders, minimizing the chances of a nitrous backfire which would blow your intake manifold to pieces. A wet kit will typically work fine, but it does mean the intake manifold must flow a fuel-air mixture instead of the dry air which it was designed for, which can cause pooling and the aforementioned backfire. However, direct port cost is quite a bit more, install is more difficult and it is more of a pain to remove for warranty work, etc.
For those running 60+ hp, are you aware of any internal improvements on the D17 over the D16 in terms of strength? I am not, and with a longer stroke, piston speed is even higher than the D16, which means additional forces on the reciprocating assembly. It is pretty well accepted that D-series over 50hp don't last long. Is there something I don't know that exempts the D17 from this rule, or are you guys just taking your chances?
Last edited by Nosser; Jun 24, 2003 at 12:46 PM.
