Rep Power: 0

All right so for some reason my manual boost controller isn't manually controlling my boost and I'm not sure why. I have a Voodoo IV HP (ceramic ball and spring style) and the sumbitch just lets the turbo spool and spool. While this is fun, it's dangerous on my stock gut. I've cranked the ****er all the way out and it's boosts with no limit. I think it used to hold at 9 psi, but then again my tiny downpipe and crappy exhaust may have created enough back pressure to not let me get above that. I have better exhaust now. I want to boost at 8 psi and no more for the moment.

Oh and ****ing Voodoo Boost has apparently gone out of business.

I'm running a Tial 38mm wastegate and have the MBC plumbed off the pressure port on the compressor and running to the bottom port of my WG. There is nothing else in this circuit. It goes turbo port ---> MBC---> bottom port of WG.

Like this:




I taken it apart and everything appears to be fine. By rights, if I back the top adjuster nut almost all the way out, and do the same to the adjustment **** on the right (both counterclockwise), I should just be boosting at the WG spring setting.

Am I doing something obviously wrong here?

 
Rep Power: 0

TTT before I try to figure this out myself.

 
Rep Power: 262

OMG, me too clint! The same thing is happening to my car, it started 2 days ago. Wtf....is up with the site, it's been down for a week & a half??? Sorry didn't post up sooner

Anyways.......I hit boot the other day & my car felt like it hit a brick wall it slammed so hard......I look over & my boost was at 15 psi! WOW I about **** my pants......so I hit boost again & it sticks 7 psi where it should be. I do it one more time & watch the gauge....it tried to go to 10 psi & I stopped it.
I get out, check all the lines, turn the controller down as far a possible.
It stuck at 5.5 psi & did not jump yesterday or today. However, I am running a 7 psi fuel map.......on 5.5 psi at wot it sits at 12.3 AFR....well on 7 psi WOT & same map I hit 11.7-12.0 AFR.........I have the same amount of fuel with less air & it says it's running leaner........I am so confused.

I called my tuner the same day & he said he experienced the same thing on his civic on a 7 psi spring. He said it always happens when it is very very cold outside, he said the air is too dense.....I can kinda see this when cold air gets in & then expands due to heat exposure....but still.....it's been between 0-15 degrees here w/ some nasty winds

I don't know if I believe that but it hasn't done it sense.........My AFR's are still puzzeling me.....I guess we can just run off spring pressue's to eliminate any kind of boost controller out of the equation.

Frickin wierd clint! Oh & I sooooo wish I could get that manifold!!!! It would be perfect for my headgasket job! Come on tax return!!!!

 
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I just ended up taking it apart and cleaning it and it works fine now. Been rock solid ever since. Oh and I found out my voltage problem too. Fricking cable was burnt from being near the down pipe. So I lengthened it and re-routed it around the PS pump. Put my old alternator on and it's been fine. Steady at about 14 volts.

 
Rep Power: 262

There ya go..mine is still holdin 5 psi.....but I still can't explain my AFR's.....
I knew that charge back was not correct, honda said so..........see pays to listen to tha professionals!!! haha j/k

 
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Well, Steve's still shitting around getting his end together so we haven't put the order in yet. You might still have time to get the first $500 together if you want to get one at the same time.

 
Rep Power: 262

WOW, well I did have the cash for the manifold but I think I might need it now. Again coming to work I smell a burnt smell, look back & I'm covering the road in white smoke again. The engine is stumbling.....I'm 20 mins from the house & 5 from work. I just kept going to work & crossed my fingers. Coolant/oil temps are good, oil pressure is good.

I stop at work & get out. Just puffing smoke everywhere. The catch can is completely frozen (-5 degrees this morning) air intake off turbo is whistling, & when I take the dipstick out you can hear a release of pressure. I pull dipstick & there is some oil there, not alot but some.

I think the catch can & lines froze, not able to release crankcase pressure, it pushes oil into my cylinders.

I just went out 5 mins ago & found even less oil on dipstick & a small puddle under neither turbo/piping.......so.....I think I'm offically done with this thing. I'm not even sure if I'm gonna continue modding this. I just don't make enough cash to keep supporting this. This is like an expensive drug habbit.
In fact I think I spent less on those kinda things when I was younger

So, cross your fingers she's not toast. So be on the look out, a turbo kit might be for sale!!!

 
Rep Power: 281

say it ain't so. I had high hopes for you and your kit. I understand it being a money pit. Maybe you can bring it to a mechanic and they can figure out what's really going on.

 
Rep Power: 0

Oh **** man, that really sucks. Hopefully it won't be toast. If you're blowing white smoke, that's coolant or water though, not oil. My guess is the pressure popped your headgasket which bled the coolant into the cylinders and the oil into the coolant passages. It being cold outside probably saved your engine. My internet diagnosis blown head gasket (now would be a good time to get your checked to make it flat) and some gunk in the coolant jackets and oil gallies. Nothing a gasket kit and a couple days of labor can't fix. Good luck man and keep us posted!

 
Rep Power: 262

Haha, I am the mechanic ronaldo I work at a honda/toyota shop..........
I took alook at her at lunch. One drop of oil on dipstick. the puddle of oil under car was from oil seeping out of leaking downpipe/turbine seal. The good thing is my oil pressure never dropped. The valves are even wet with oil so I hope I didn't do any bearing damage!

The back of my car looks like it took a bath in oil.......

I putted 2 qts in & fired her up....she ran with alittle smoke ( I believe to be left over residue.) I did find the catch can frozen solid, I believe crankcase pressues were just too much with that crankcase vent plugged. Pushed oil up into the cylinders & burned/pushed it out my exhaust. You can literally get a qt of oil from my exhaust.

Worst part about it is my back up driver..my 86 nissan hardbody truck also has the dash out right now!

I'm gonna clean her up after work, clean plugs, do compression test, & see what happens! Wish me luck..........I think I just need a new car!

P.S. So in conclusion we have learned excessive oil consumption/burning can be white smoke too !!!

 
Rep Power: 0

Don't give up on her man!

 
Rep Power: 262

I'm trying, it just sucks fixing cars all day & then have to **** with yours just so you can drive home......it's not fun anymore ;( Plus, I don't have my own garage. I still live in an apartment. I have access to our shop here at work but were so busy I can't afford to tie up a bay. That just ties up my wallet too!

Can anyone give me a ride home? ahah

 
Rep Power: 262

ok so I pulled her in last night........unfroze catch can, cleaned plugs, stuck a camera down her throat, & filled her back up with oil. She's smelly but she runs with no knocks. It smokes a little bit if I let idle for awhile & while boosting WOT. I cleaned the bumper last night but this morning after getting to work it was covered again. There must be alot of oil in my exhaust.

I found oil running out my boost pipe out of the turbo(it was loose,) oil dripping out of every exhaust joint, & of course my exhaust tip dripping oil out. I just hope my o2 & afr sensors are ok.

What I discovered is pressure coming out of crankcase vent line & pressure coming out of the valve cover line. I just let both lines hang in the engine bay. It dripped alot of condensation out last night but did not freeze.

I really need to redo my PCV system........this is where all my problems arise
I just hope it stops smoking completely. It might take awhile........it didn't take this long the 1st time this happen

I'm still debating if the money is worth it. I now have an pretty quick unreliable car I can't even take on road trips. Not to mention the money I paid for all these issues That 2008 Civic si Mugen addition sitting in front of my shop looks pretty nice....but for $500 a month I don't know if thats worth it either, especially the area where I live. It'd be stripped in a week !

I think if I ever did a turbo again I would build the motor, standalone, & all goodies at one time.

P.S> the CR edition s2000 is $800 a month

 
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Are you just running a passive venting system right now? I would think there would be enough oil/fuel vapors in the catchcan and lines to prevent things from freezing up, but obviously not.

I think that setup I'm going to run (IM and exhaust vac sources with check valves) should do you just fine. Parts aren't that expensive about $20 total), you just need access to a welder to plumb a line into the exhaust.

 
Rep Power: 262

Ya I wanna do that setup we talked about...........however I can't find those check valves anywhere....I can only find them in the the crankcase evac kits on jegs & summit. I did find a very nice slash cut on jegs. It's an 02 sensor bung angled w/ the slash cut able to screw in. It also comes with a plug. You can run the slash cut, 02 sensor, AFR sensor, or plug it if ya want. It's about 20 bucks!

Where you getting those check valves?..........

Here's the easy slash cut...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_59890_-1

Here's the exhaust side of the check valve / it threads on the slash cut end & vacuum hose goes on the other side / special for heat
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_39412_-1

I just need to source out a check valve w/ hose ends on both sides for the intake portion.

I was thinking that our motors are so small why should we even bother with the intake side? Just slap a breather on the valve cover & crankcase to exhaust slash cut. That should be enough I would think!

 
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Ebay aquarium check valves. $2 each. I bought these:

110215505662

I'm just going to weld a piece of 3/4" pipe at a slash cut onto my exhaust, stick a nipple on the end of it and run my hose to the nipple, should work just fine.

The intake side is for the vacuum when you're not in boost. As far as running a hose from the VC into the setup, it can only help so I may as well do it.

 
Rep Power: 262

thanks man! I'ma get this stuff ordered and get it done! We'll see what happens.

I took the beast to lunch. She smoked alittle.......then I mashed 1st-4th WOT 5 psi and I covered the road in smoke. I slowed down & continued to smoke quite abit. I made it back to work, check oil, check pcv lines, alls good. I let let her idle another 15 mins.....took her back out & I absolutely gave her hell. I boosted every gear for about 20 mins.........I pushed a **** load of coolant into the rezzie but no more smoke & my oil level is still good.

I hope this is the last of it. I hope I did no permanent damage to the turbine. I'm so mad that my intercooler & charge pipes probably have a gallon of oil in them.

 
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Dude, you've got to get the headgasket taken care of. Most of the moisture that got in your catchcan lines and allowed them to freeze is coming from that. My catchcan used to have the white nasty oil/water mixture before I finally got a straight head on it and it stopping popping gaskets.

 
Rep Power: 262

Ya I know ...........I'm working towards that. I'm broke right now. I'm doing head gasket, t-belt,oil pump, all seals behind t-belt, water pump, arp studs, & have my downpipe rewelded since it's decided to plant itself on my subframe (and yes all motor mounts are brand new and subrame is in proper alignment)

This morning it smoked bad on the highway. By noon it was completely gone. Two other highway trips & alot of boost....no smoke. She ran good tonight on 6 psi....took down a mustang pretty easy & lost to a pretty built WRX by half a car......

Funny thing is I pushed her real hard & it didn't push 1 once of fluid into the reservoir ? It's so strange. It's intermittent, I've never seen a car do this kinda ****. If the gasket is blown it's blown. They don't fix themselves & then leak here & there.

We'll see when I get the head off & check it out!

 
Rep Power: 242

Best of luck with all of this. I have a 2002 LX sedan and am finalizing a d17a2 head, and block to start my build off. Figure I might as well do it right. Hopefully by the end of the year I will be a member of T.E.A.R.S :-P Thank god for overtime!

 
Rep Power: 262

Good Dude....thats how I wish I would have started. Keep your car stock for now & reliable. Build the motor for boost, get a nice turbo, hondata, intake manifold, manifold, lines, fuel system, etc.........Take your time & do it all right. It will cost more up front but when it's all said & done you shouldn't have any problems......a built, reliable, boost happy motor! It sucks going the slow route

I have cleaned my baby inside & out, put her in storage, put a tarp over her, & said good tonight to her for awhile. Poor civic she never hurt nobody!

I need to get my headgasket taken care of,new crankcase evac setup, hopefully a JDMfabtech manifold(funds permitting, how much again Clint?), & hondata (ya right!) next time she see's light of day.

One thing is for sure, if she pushes coolant after hq,pump, & studs. There will be a massive turbo part out followed by a car sale!

 
Rep Power: 242

Well I figure If I build the block for the same type of boost andyman was running even if I only run around 10 psi it should last a good while as long as the work is done properly. I am going to have the head pnp'd, new valves, new springs/retainers and a stage 2 cam. As far as PCS it is an auto so I will probably go with an AEM FIC. For some reason the EMS replacements all want a manual tranny only. Dezod has nice things to say about the FIC versus emanage so, based off of what I have read, and what they say I think that is a good middle ground. I guess we will find out how much boost an auto can take :-P When it blows I will do a manual swap.