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Old May 2, 2006
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Finally blew it

Not the engine, but the head gasket. There is definatly signs of bolt stretching. Looks like its time to order some ARP bolts, and slap on the Nippon Leakless. Yet another drew back of boosting a N/A engine. Do you all think a block guard would be a good thing since I have to pull the head anyways?
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Old May 2, 2006
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go k20 ;P
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
go k20 ;P
I have a block, but not going to be built untill next summer.
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Old May 2, 2006
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How much PSI were you running?
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Old May 2, 2006
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7psi
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Old May 2, 2006
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that sucks to hear...i have nippon leakless never opened if you want it
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by nismostreets21
that sucks to hear...i have nippon leakless never opened if you want it
thanks but i got one too
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by ajhdragon
7psi
t-25 is it?

p.s. I'm happy to hear you that it was not the engine what got blown.

Last edited by 03-Acura-1.7-EL; May 2, 2006 at 04:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by 03-Acura-1.7-EL
t-25 is it?
yes sir, basiclaly running a TSI like setup, HKS manifold, with my charge pipe going ot the extreme drivers side of the car.
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Old May 2, 2006
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heres the part # for the arp headstuds. make sure you get "z" and not "y".

Honda D16Z - part # 208-4301
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by 1siksivik
heres the part # for the arp headstuds. make sure you get "z" and not "y".

Honda D16Z - part # 208-4301
thanks, you wouldn't happen to have KMS's website so i could order a block guard would you?
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Old May 2, 2006
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good to hear not the engine i would get a block guard but i thiink u have to get it pressed in so that mean u might have to take out the engine unless u can find a company that can do it inside the car
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by cleancivic 05
good to hear not the engine i would get a block guard but i thiink u have to get it pressed in so that mean u might have to take out the engine unless u can find a company that can do it inside the car
i wasn't aware of this. maybe i won't get one then.
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Old May 2, 2006
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dam i though it was the engine at first.
did you ever get the car tune???
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by stl01civic
dam i though it was the engine at first.
did you ever get the car tune???
gotta call up lightspeed and set up a time. Probably won't happen until after my surgery on the 18th.
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by ajhdragon
thanks, you wouldn't happen to have KMS's website so i could order a block guard would you?

read this before you buy.

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...kms+blockguard

and this

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ms+block+guard


now hook up them rep points.
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Old May 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by 1siksivik
thanks and repped
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Old May 3, 2006
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for some reason that turbo just seems so small to me now...
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Old May 3, 2006
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hey what happened to my rep ......j/k ask turboengnr he is running a blockgaurd from what i have read he is ok with them ...if u go to his thread when he was building his motor he was putting it in and adding detailes about it
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Old May 8, 2006
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http://honda-performance.com/default.asp
this is the KMS website. they are in GA(thank god i finally have a shop here!)
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Old May 9, 2006
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I have the blockguard with no problems and it made me feel a lot safer. You might as well get it when you have the head off. good luck.
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Old May 9, 2006
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Blockguard is a good idea, the piston sleeves will walk side to side when pressurized, blowing a head gasket.

Just make sure to make the exsisting holes on the blockguard bigger and to carefully drill extra holes as shown.

Match the holes to the head gasket slids.
Don't over do it as every hole makes the blockguard weaker.
we carefully decided what side should get more holes according to the water flow.
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Old May 9, 2006
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block guard bad idea, not enough coolant flow through those tiny holes, and yes needs to be pressed on. doesn't drilling holes weaken it? what happens when it breaks apart from too much pressure. what happened, your tune wasn't good? and i always thought the nippon is the stock gasket, actually i'm sure it is. just get arp studs and try again. getting bolts aren't gonna help much.
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Old May 10, 2006
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Thanks for reminding me. I bought a set of ARP studs about a year ago in case I blew my HG. Damn thing still won't blow.
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Old May 10, 2006
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i used arp bolts, and nippon gasket, and blockguard. so far no problems, and i also have tsi kits t25. in fact all this (on stock bottom end) 10:1 compression, stood up to 20psi fine. lol yea, while tuning it somehow decided to jump to 20-21psi a few pulls.....god was it fun, but scary, butttt still fun hahaa.
good luck with all....let us know hwo it goes.

Originally Posted by gearbox
block guard bad idea, not enough coolant flow through those tiny holes, and yes needs to be pressed on. doesn't drilling holes weaken it? what happens when it breaks apart from too much pressure. what happened, your tune wasn't good? and i always thought the nippon is the stock gasket, actually i'm sure it is. just get arp studs and try again. getting bolts aren't gonna help much.
block guard good idea, all you have to do is set it like a fourth of an inch down sso the coolant can pool there and go wherever it needs to. thats what i did and it workes fine, after beating on it still no overheating. and it doesnt have to be pressed in, just tapped in gently with a rubber mallot. and drilling holes will weaken it, thats why its better to just set it in. and i dunno about the gasket, all i know is the dealer offers two, i asked for nippon and the guy said theres really no differecnce but he gave me it anyway.

Last edited by ncirom2003; May 10, 2006 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 11, 2006
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There are two oem HGs, one is stock and the other one is the nippon. If you do not mount it flush you need to have upgraded sleeves, or something. Where is turboengnr, he explained why he mounted it lower a few months ago.
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Old May 11, 2006
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i did the same thing, we later realized we both did. put it down about 1/4th an inch from the flush. what it does is let the coolant go through the holes, then there is a fourth of an inch of a pocket for it to pool up and move around before it has to go through the headgasket. whereas mounting it flush the wholes dont line up so not much collant can get through, thus you need to drill holes and weaken it greatly, so just mount it inset.
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Old May 12, 2006
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Originally Posted by gearbox
block guard bad idea, not enough coolant flow through those tiny holes, and yes needs to be pressed on. doesn't drilling holes weaken it? what happens when it breaks apart from too much pressure. what happened, your tune wasn't good? and i always thought the nippon is the stock gasket, actually i'm sure it is. just get arp studs and try again. getting bolts aren't gonna help much.
I'm boosting 16-18psi with no problems.
Some holes where only enlarged by a mm or les and just where needed looking at the gasket and at the water exchange head ports.

I heard that pooling works as well.

After normal driving about 3000 miles the ARP studs where re-torqued.
(some adjustments are needed after engine heating and cooling cycles)

I'm boosting 16-18 psi for about 9k miles and track tested it too, under very hot florida heat.

The reason the BG helps preventing HG failure is because the walls of the cylinders walk (move side to side) under high pressure, causing the HG to fail.
When holding all four cylinder walls with the BG from the very top in creates a good seal when the piston goes up and ignites, kindda of like a can with a solid base and lid.
Solid deck kits are sold for racing blocks.
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