Manifold nuts not holding tight
04-13-2006
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Manifold nuts not holding tight
No matter what I do to the left bottom nut on my mani it just seems to come loose after driving. I need it to hold good before i go to the dyno....anyone got any suggestions?
04-13-2006
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Thread lock will melt off unless you get the high temp stuff. Use a lock washer or get locking exhaust nuts.
04-13-2006
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this has been an atl01 production..
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Rep Power: 268 just replace the stud with a new one. just think if you have to take that nut off one day then it might not come off if you put threadlock on it.
04-13-2006
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Definately dont use JB.
Use lockable washers as some one said.
Also check stud/nut for threads, as you might have striped'em.
Replace stud/nut if necessary.
Definately dont use JB.
Use lockable washers as some one said.
Also check stud/nut for threads, as you might have striped'em.
Replace stud/nut if necessary.
04-13-2006
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Originally Posted by Supermex
manifold could be bend.
Have it rec.
But deffinately change the stud.
I did mine to a number 10 stud 1.25" long.
Bore it out then place in with
Have it rec.
But deffinately change the stud.
I did mine to a number 10 stud 1.25" long.
Bore it out then place in with
the mani is perfect i just got it and the surface was very good. I took the nut off and put a **** load of lock tight on and torqued it pretty good and its now holding...i guess we will see what happens.
04-14-2006
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Originally Posted by joshb_
the mani is perfect i just got it and the surface was very good. I took the nut off and put a **** load of lock tight on and torqued it pretty good and its now holding...i guess we will see what happens.
This is going to be a future problem with boosted 7thgens all over.
The stock studs are too small and weak to hold the wheight and kinetic forces of the turbo at full spool.
Specialy after removing the bolts once or twice during install.
I had that happen to me in twice and took care of it with a set of five ARP #10 studs but ACE hardware have them too at lower price.
I did it with while P&P the head.
That biach is not going anywhere and the ARP's can be reused over and over without loocktight.
If is only the nut coming lose ARP has a set of nut looks for $2.00 each
Keep an eye on it an look for signs of carbonation on the bottom of that nut.
The nut could be tight but the strut may of came lose inside the head.
In that case the nut can be tighten again and again till the end of that side of the stud.
Also beware that is hard to tell when a manifold is straight or bend just by looking at it without close measurements.
New stuff can be defective too.
04-14-2006
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Originally Posted by joshb_
I dont under stand why they went to the 5 bolt pattern, its so much weaker
04-14-2006
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Rep Power: 351 i was gonna say just use the lock washer or simply get another bolt and drive it against the first one. well see what happens.
04-14-2006
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Rep Power: 239 you might need new studs and nuts which is about $22 dollars for all five from the dealer, and while your at it heat wrap your header if its an aftermarket header. and if that doesn't do squat... just get locking washers. MIne kept getting loose after every drive with just my header and catback. I damper (engine might help but i dunno)
04-14-2006
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Originally Posted by blackdragon
you might need new studs and nuts which is about $22 dollars for all five from the dealer, and while your at it heat wrap your header if its an aftermarket header. and if that doesn't do squat... just get locking washers. MIne kept getting loose after every drive with just my header and catback. I damper (engine might help but i dunno)
yeah...i got a price at work today...it was 8 bucks for them all cause im a tech at a acura dealer.
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