TSI with no FUEL UPGRADE
TSI with no FUEL UPGRADE
i bought a tsi t25 with no fuel option cuz i thought i could afford the emanage and injectors at the same time and now i am broke (tickets and damn police) what is the cheapest way to get some fuel upgrade that i can run my turbo at. i know apexi s-afc 2 is good but its like $275. that looks good but no big money in my pocket. help me out. thanks..... boosted with no go sux
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From: Washington DC
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Yes, damn police pulling you over for doing stupid ****. 
Cheapest way is to not put it in. Stock injectors can't push enough gas.

Cheapest way is to not put it in. Stock injectors can't push enough gas.
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From: Washington DC
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Originally Posted by SleakCivic02
you guys really dont know the meaning of cheap. **** i am broke. good help you are... apexi is the way to go right now
i know u probably expected to just buy the kit slap it on and then, have fun but it does'nt seem 2 work like that. I feel your pain i was kinda in the same position. But one of my boys told me i was rushing to get my car fixed up and i have'nt even had it two years yet. I would honestly say bro just to chill out wait until you have the right parts and then put it all on. Because if you take shortcuts you may blow your motor like boilermaker said, then you have no turbo no motor no nothing but headaches. Patience My Dear Friedn Patience!!!
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From: Harker heights Tx
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Originally Posted by SleakCivic02
you guys really dont know the meaning of cheap. **** i am broke. good help you are... apexi is the way to go right now
boosting is not cheap for a N/A engine.. keep that in mind
Originally Posted by Jeff
I have a brand new sf fmu that has been sitting in my room for ever.
I bought GUNS sf fmu for from a member here almost a year ago, its been doing fine so far....
DONT PANIC
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Originally Posted by SleakCivic02
you guys really dont know the meaning of cheap. **** i am broke. good help you are... apexi is the way to go right now
Go ahead and run your stock injectors with just an SAFC II. That extra 10% pulsewidth increase on the stock injectors should supply you with enough fuel to run some boost. Just use a boost controller to turn your boost down. If you dont have a boost controller, just take the vaccum line off the wastegate actuator. Your car will only make as much boost as it can handle. If there isnt enough fuel, then it wont do it. Simple as that.
Ok, enough with the fairytales. Do it right and get a REAL engine management. SAFCII is crap. Stock injectors are crap. Work around those parameters and you should be fine.
so to drive the car under safe conditions i have to take off the hose off the wastegate. trust me i know i need a fuel upgrade but as i stated above i got a ticket that i need to pay off so my emanage and rsx injectors fell throught, i need to drive my car. i thought you guys could help. thanks for those you did, also getting few engine codes, one stationg the map sensor problem and my idel controll unit also..... any suggestions
i know, but i am with out a car now, i mean i need the car to get to work. i live like a mile away. trust me i want to do it right and make some good numbers but **** happens that you dont expect it to so you have to look other ideas. i guess i have to run it at low psi, but right now without the better fuel delivery i am having these problems, idel is at 600 rpm and some times the car shuts off. i can only rev it to 3500 rpm in 1st and 3000 rpm in 2nd so on. i know i am not getting fuel, i cant lower my boost without a boost controller. i guess i have to walk to work or something... buy a bike at walmart...whatever. plus i am not sure if i wired the black box correctly cuz i am getting a engine code p1505 which means map sensors detecting more preasure that expected. and a engine code p1219f which has to do with the idel... thanks guys
DONT PANIC
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you cant lower your boost.... period.
Take the rod off that connects the wastegate actuator to the internal flapper. This will prevent the turbo from spooling up. Then you can try to drive it easily. Im not saying it is safe, but definately better than running it any other way.
And get the damn correct parts right away. Dont waste money or time on an safc.
Take the rod off that connects the wastegate actuator to the internal flapper. This will prevent the turbo from spooling up. Then you can try to drive it easily. Im not saying it is safe, but definately better than running it any other way.
And get the damn correct parts right away. Dont waste money or time on an safc.
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From: Woostah
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why don't you take the turbo stuff off and run OEM? That is the only way to solve your problem. The people above are not being a-holes, they are telling you the truth and trying to help you from killing your motor....
7thgens official a$$hole
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I got an SF FMU if you want to buy it. Works fine. Just reccommend tightening the lines and some new teflon tape on the threads. I took it off becasue i got E-Manage after i got a small leak.
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it aint gunna happen.
here is how i see it.
1. you dont listen to us
2. it blows up
3. you make a thread telling us how it blew up and u want to know why.
4. i lock it bc we already told u the reason, you just didnt listen.
so....take it off. when u get the money do it right. half assing **** gets u in trouble 200% of the time
here is how i see it.
1. you dont listen to us
2. it blows up
3. you make a thread telling us how it blew up and u want to know why.
4. i lock it bc we already told u the reason, you just didnt listen.
so....take it off. when u get the money do it right. half assing **** gets u in trouble 200% of the time
I hope I offend you... Get mad
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From: Lancaster, PA
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Originally Posted by C2i0v0i1C
it aint gunna happen.
here is how i see it.
1. you dont listen to us
2. it blows up
3. you make a thread telling us how it blew up and u want to know why.
4. i lock it bc we already told u the reason, you just didnt listen.
so....take it off. when u get the money do it right. half assing **** gets u in trouble 200% of the time
here is how i see it.
1. you dont listen to us
2. it blows up
3. you make a thread telling us how it blew up and u want to know why.
4. i lock it bc we already told u the reason, you just didnt listen.
so....take it off. when u get the money do it right. half assing **** gets u in trouble 200% of the time
You can take this any way you want. Never half a$$... Half a$$ing ALWAYS leads to more problems then your expecting. There is no halfway with boosting these motors. Its **** or get off the pot. There are realisticly only 2 options for you. Remove boost or BLOW ENGINE.
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From: Harker heights Tx
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Originally Posted by Slow Gold
wont be surpirsed...
You can take this any way you want. Never half a$$... Half a$$ing ALWAYS leads to more problems then your expecting. There is no halfway with boosting these motors. Its **** or get off the pot. There are realisticly only 2 options for you. Remove boost or BLOW ENGINE.
You can take this any way you want. Never half a$$... Half a$$ing ALWAYS leads to more problems then your expecting. There is no halfway with boosting these motors. Its **** or get off the pot. There are realisticly only 2 options for you. Remove boost or BLOW ENGINE.
its the truth don't do it half way do it right one time and you will never regret it
the ecu detects the too much presure with the map sensor and creates its own rev limit. so its safe, found that out today with mastertech.... $3000 worth of diagnostics is sweet, thanks for advice guys
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From: Woostah
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Originally Posted by SleakCivic02
the ecu detects the too much presure with the map sensor and creates its own rev limit. so its safe, found that out today with mastertech.... $3000 worth of diagnostics is sweet, thanks for advice guys
LMAO
good luck. You'll need it.
I'm closing this.
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From: Lexington, KY
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Originally Posted by SleakCivic02
the ecu detects the too much presure with the map sensor and creates its own rev limit. so its safe, found that out today with mastertech.... $3000 worth of diagnostics is sweet, thanks for advice guys
the ECU doesnt create its own rev limit.
3000 bucks and u had no money in the begining of this thread
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