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Originally Posted by turboengnr
just wait until i get the car bra i ordered.
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darton cannot make the MID sleeves for our car due to a water passage at the bottom of the coolant jacket. So even though it is sleeved, it is still a fee-standing open deck sleeve.
The problem with that is when you start making a ton of power, the cylinders walk (rock back and forth). This can cause them to crack and break off at the bottom. When that happens, say good bye to all your good work.
The block guard is just going to keep the sleeves centered. It will not allow them to walk.
I have been to Dartons shop. Talked with the guys in person (who are all awesome and i recommend them to everyone). They told me that with just the sleeves, they would not recommend more than 15 psi. With the sleeves + blockguard, it is safe for 40+ psi.
The problem with that is when you start making a ton of power, the cylinders walk (rock back and forth). This can cause them to crack and break off at the bottom. When that happens, say good bye to all your good work.
The block guard is just going to keep the sleeves centered. It will not allow them to walk.
I have been to Dartons shop. Talked with the guys in person (who are all awesome and i recommend them to everyone). They told me that with just the sleeves, they would not recommend more than 15 psi. With the sleeves + blockguard, it is safe for 40+ psi.
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Rep Power: 285 Thank you!
I cant wait either. I started bolting on stuff as soon as i got it home. I was just soo damn excited.
I paid for all of this **** last march. So i have been waiting patiently.
I cant wait either. I started bolting on stuff as soon as i got it home. I was just soo damn excited.
I paid for all of this **** last march. So i have been waiting patiently.
I Hunt Goats, Rams, And Mustangs.
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From: CenTex
Rep Power: 279 Well instead of a block gaurd you should have looked in to block posting? http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...block_posting/
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Rep Power: 285 i dont believe in posting. I think it is a poor mans version. All of the force of the cylinder walk is focused on that one small area when you are using the posting method.
When you use a block guard, it is not focused on any one space. it is disbursed through the entire block guard.
block posting is greatly disputed throughout the automotive performance industry. Some people like it, others dont. I just happen to be one who doesnt. So lets not turn this into a war about that.
When you use a block guard, it is not focused on any one space. it is disbursed through the entire block guard.
block posting is greatly disputed throughout the automotive performance industry. Some people like it, others dont. I just happen to be one who doesnt. So lets not turn this into a war about that.
There is gl@ss in my @SS...
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Rep Power: 285 you know how people are worried that the block guards cause hot spots because they only have small holes for the coolant to pass through?
Well, if you have it at the very top of the cylinder, that is correct. You only have a few tiny holes for the coolant to flow through. So some people enlarge them. And that works, but you still have less coolant flow because you are limiting the coolant to the ports on the head.
But when you install the block guard 3/8" of an inch down, you have ALL of those little holes feeding the ports on the head, not just one or two holes. Get what i mean? By creating a gap, there is a much larger space for the water to flow into the head. Think of it like the plenum space on your intake manifold.
I would not recommend installing the block guard down this low on the stock motor. The point of a block guard (besided eliminating cylinder walk) is to reinforce the tops of the cylinders. When you start making tons of power, the top of the cylinder wall will break because that is where the bulk of the combustion takes place, and that is where the largest pressure spikes are.
But when your motor has sleeves like mine where the cylinder thickness is more than 3 times the stock one, you dont have to worry about that.
Well, if you have it at the very top of the cylinder, that is correct. You only have a few tiny holes for the coolant to flow through. So some people enlarge them. And that works, but you still have less coolant flow because you are limiting the coolant to the ports on the head.
But when you install the block guard 3/8" of an inch down, you have ALL of those little holes feeding the ports on the head, not just one or two holes. Get what i mean? By creating a gap, there is a much larger space for the water to flow into the head. Think of it like the plenum space on your intake manifold.
I would not recommend installing the block guard down this low on the stock motor. The point of a block guard (besided eliminating cylinder walk) is to reinforce the tops of the cylinders. When you start making tons of power, the top of the cylinder wall will break because that is where the bulk of the combustion takes place, and that is where the largest pressure spikes are.
But when your motor has sleeves like mine where the cylinder thickness is more than 3 times the stock one, you dont have to worry about that.
I dono man, I hear what you're saying about placing it lower, but I'm not sure that will cool the head efficiently. I mean, yeah, there will be parts around the combustion chamber that won't receive much coolant if its placed at the top of the cylinders but those holes are small. Your coolant flow is still going to be restricted and not free flowing. The hot spots are usually not only on the head but around the cylinders, as well, causing them to warp. I'd be weary about it. But everything looks great man. What rods did you end up going with?
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Rep Power: 285 the area of all of those small holes adds up to be more than the area of the ports on the head. So it should still cool rather well. I did make sure of that.
I am using crower rods.
I am using crower rods.
