please help i did search but i just need
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please help i did search but i just need
i jus need answers please ... im turboing my d17 im gonna get a wastegate set for 5.8 psi ... ima run a block guard thats all.
For 5.8 psi do i need to change the fuel system or anything ?
right now im thinkin maybe i can jus install the turbo system juis the turbo manifold, turbo, wastegate, bov, oil lines, intercooler, and get all the piping done including the muffler. can i get by on jus doin that or do i have to get somthing to do with the ecu or fuel system please help dont ban me i searched alot i just need answers please
For 5.8 psi do i need to change the fuel system or anything ?
right now im thinkin maybe i can jus install the turbo system juis the turbo manifold, turbo, wastegate, bov, oil lines, intercooler, and get all the piping done including the muffler. can i get by on jus doin that or do i have to get somthing to do with the ecu or fuel system please help dont ban me i searched alot i just need answers please
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How can you say you searched when it says exactly what you want to know in the FAQ?
For the love of god if you don't know what the hell you're doing, DONT bother boosting the car
For the love of god if you don't know what the hell you're doing, DONT bother boosting the car
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Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
How can you say you searched when it says exactly what you want to know in the FAQ?
For the love of god if you don't know what the hell you're doing, DONT bother boosting the car
For the love of god if you don't know what the hell you're doing, DONT bother boosting the car
easy easy .. ive been where he is not a while ago .. its hard to find a lot of information easily ..
anyways, the turbo FAQ does explain it well .. for the fuel system .. u can keep the same one (returnless) but u will need to add a piggyback like a e-manage or stand alone managment. Get it well done the 1st time, itll save u money on the long run or get it done by pros and theyll tell u that u will need a proper fuel system
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Originally Posted by nova4dr_racer
easy easy .. ive been where he is not a while ago .. its hard to find a lot of information easily ..
anyways, the turbo FAQ does explain it well .. for the fuel system .. u can keep the same one (returnless) but u will need to add a piggyback like a e-manage or stand alone managment. Get it well done the 1st time, itll save u money on the long run or get it done by pros and theyll tell u that u will need a proper fuel system
anyways, the turbo FAQ does explain it well .. for the fuel system .. u can keep the same one (returnless) but u will need to add a piggyback like a e-manage or stand alone managment. Get it well done the 1st time, itll save u money on the long run or get it done by pros and theyll tell u that u will need a proper fuel system
250+ awhp Stage 2
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Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
You know... if it was an intake or something, it would be one thing, but we're dealing with something just a little bit more complicated here. Not exactly something that I would consider a noob project and definitely not something to undertake as a DIY piece together job without knowledge of what you're doing in all respects. It involves a little legwork on your own, and its not all too difficult to find the information in here.
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Rep Power: 331 the wastegate running a 5.8 psi spring doesnt mean it will boost up to 5.8 psi. It means that that is the amount of exhaust pressure that needs to build up before the wastegate opens. Even if you plan on running low boost, just do everything right the first time, dont cut corners, it'll only get more expensive in the long run. Get good engine management and a good tune. Get a professional opinion on your setup and consider professional installation.
its drivin me nuts cant someone jus tell me exactly how to run 5lbs of boost with a t3 a/r .42 turbo ? Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Rep Power: 331 NOTE: this was time consuming, use it, print it, and staple it to your forehead if you have to. If anyone wants to add something, feel free to let me know and i will update the list, most of this is off the top of my head from what i needed for my setup.
NEED
Manifold, turbo, down pipe, intercooler, pipes, clamps, couplers
blow off valve
RSX-S injectors
boost gauge
Emanage w/injector/ignition harnesses
Support tool
GReddy Pressure sensor/harness
Teflon tape
Tial 38mm .4 bar wastegate/flanges
and atleast a MBC
+TONS OF MISC. HARDWARE/GASKETS
oil lines
optional
Timer
Gauge pod
Spark plugs – Denso Iridium IK20
Wideband air/fuel gauge
+tons of other ****
there is more, but this should get you going, you can cut costs by buying less expensive things...ie. you dont need an HKS bov, a cheaper one will do, you dont need a wideband a/f gauge, etc.
most importantly. it doesnt matter if you run 3 psi or 10 psi, if you dont know what the hell you're doing, and you dont take the time to do research, you WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR. PERIOD. furthermore, just because you only plan on running 5 psi, shouldnt make your setup any cheaper than someone running 10 or 12 psi. and if it is, you really skimped on quality and are further promoting deliberate damage to your car. Granted, everyone who boosts a d17 tries to keep it as cost effective as possible but if you're serious about it, do it right.
NEED
Manifold, turbo, down pipe, intercooler, pipes, clamps, couplers
blow off valve
RSX-S injectors
boost gauge
Emanage w/injector/ignition harnesses
Support tool
GReddy Pressure sensor/harness
Teflon tape
Tial 38mm .4 bar wastegate/flanges
and atleast a MBC
+TONS OF MISC. HARDWARE/GASKETS
oil lines
optional
Timer
Gauge pod
Spark plugs – Denso Iridium IK20
Wideband air/fuel gauge
+tons of other ****
there is more, but this should get you going, you can cut costs by buying less expensive things...ie. you dont need an HKS bov, a cheaper one will do, you dont need a wideband a/f gauge, etc.
most importantly. it doesnt matter if you run 3 psi or 10 psi, if you dont know what the hell you're doing, and you dont take the time to do research, you WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR. PERIOD. furthermore, just because you only plan on running 5 psi, shouldnt make your setup any cheaper than someone running 10 or 12 psi. and if it is, you really skimped on quality and are further promoting deliberate damage to your car. Granted, everyone who boosts a d17 tries to keep it as cost effective as possible but if you're serious about it, do it right.
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Rep Power: 0 you need a fuel system period.... even if you're running half a pound of boost, you need additional fuel to supplement...
if you're not going to use an e-manage with your fuel system and plan on using an FMU, you will need the missing link to prevent the car from seeing positive vacuum pressure....
i doubt that read through the TURBO FAQ all too carefully... why? because it talks about fuel...
What about the returnless fuel system?
The fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump are combined to a single unit located in the fuel tank. This means that they aren’t easily upgraded. Let me explain a returnable system first. A returnable fuel system pumps out a certain pressure. The fuel is brought to the fuel rail and the injectors allow what volume and pressure is needed based on the signal from the MAF or MAP sensor. The unused fuel is sent back to the tank through a return line. So, the extra fuel makes it to the rail and is readily available for the taking. A returnless fuel system pumps a constant pressure and is adjusted by the fuel pressure regulator only to allow what is needed. So a small amount of fuel reaches the fuel rail and it all gets used. In order to get the fuel needed to maintain a proper air-fuel mixture, there are a few things we could do. We could convert the system to a returnable fuel system which is expensive and time consuming. It will require a stand-alone fuel management system too. The most common and economical way of taking care of the fuel is to get a “piggyback” fuel manager like the GReddy E-manage, Haltech F5, Motec, etc. to intercept the signals from the various sensors and up the fuel delivery, and add the control of extra injectors if need be. The fuel injectors atomize the fuel and that optimum atomization is variable and depends mainly on the fuel pressure entering the injector and the time for which the injector opens. The ECU varies the fuel pressure and the injector pulse width (time for which it opens) based on the MAP sensor. Better atomization means a more complete burn of the fuel for more power and fuel economy and reduced emissions.
you can run 5 psi of boost with a tiny turbo or a big turbo.... the size of the turbo is not relavent to that small amount of pressure.... look... when you search, try searching using key words to questions instead of searching whole phrases like "how do I run 5psi of boost on an external wastegate"... instead, try "adjusting boost" or "fuel management" or something like that.. narrow down what you put into the search field to a word or a couple words...
skip probably searched and found all that info in less than half an hour... take your time and research how everything works first instead of looking for someone to just feed you the answer....
if you're not going to use an e-manage with your fuel system and plan on using an FMU, you will need the missing link to prevent the car from seeing positive vacuum pressure....
i doubt that read through the TURBO FAQ all too carefully... why? because it talks about fuel...
What about the returnless fuel system?
The fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump are combined to a single unit located in the fuel tank. This means that they aren’t easily upgraded. Let me explain a returnable system first. A returnable fuel system pumps out a certain pressure. The fuel is brought to the fuel rail and the injectors allow what volume and pressure is needed based on the signal from the MAF or MAP sensor. The unused fuel is sent back to the tank through a return line. So, the extra fuel makes it to the rail and is readily available for the taking. A returnless fuel system pumps a constant pressure and is adjusted by the fuel pressure regulator only to allow what is needed. So a small amount of fuel reaches the fuel rail and it all gets used. In order to get the fuel needed to maintain a proper air-fuel mixture, there are a few things we could do. We could convert the system to a returnable fuel system which is expensive and time consuming. It will require a stand-alone fuel management system too. The most common and economical way of taking care of the fuel is to get a “piggyback” fuel manager like the GReddy E-manage, Haltech F5, Motec, etc. to intercept the signals from the various sensors and up the fuel delivery, and add the control of extra injectors if need be. The fuel injectors atomize the fuel and that optimum atomization is variable and depends mainly on the fuel pressure entering the injector and the time for which the injector opens. The ECU varies the fuel pressure and the injector pulse width (time for which it opens) based on the MAP sensor. Better atomization means a more complete burn of the fuel for more power and fuel economy and reduced emissions.
you can run 5 psi of boost with a tiny turbo or a big turbo.... the size of the turbo is not relavent to that small amount of pressure.... look... when you search, try searching using key words to questions instead of searching whole phrases like "how do I run 5psi of boost on an external wastegate"... instead, try "adjusting boost" or "fuel management" or something like that.. narrow down what you put into the search field to a word or a couple words...
skip probably searched and found all that info in less than half an hour... take your time and research how everything works first instead of looking for someone to just feed you the answer....
DONT PANIC
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From: California, Palmdale
Rep Power: 285 i have a categorical syllogism for you:
if you run lean, your motor blows
you run lean
your motor blows.
I also have an analogy for you....
boost without fuel : pouring sand into your valve cover
please dont make me create an alliteration and a palindrome, just install a fuel system!
if you run lean, your motor blows
you run lean
your motor blows.
I also have an analogy for you....
boost without fuel : pouring sand into your valve cover
please dont make me create an alliteration and a palindrome, just install a fuel system!
Last edited by turboengnr; Nov 21, 2005 at 01:11 AM.
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