Vtec Controller is the bomb!
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Vtec Controller is the bomb!
RPM kicks in at 4500RPM right? I just hooked up a Buddy Club Vcon into my car and its the bomb, had a few problems at first driving it but got around it,
1st i put my vtec at 3000 rpm and it didnt do much just probaly f@#$ed up my engine mad burning smells,
2nd i set it to like 6800 rpm and boy am I supprised what vtec does to a car LOL
3rd i set it to around 4000 rpm and that gave me a great kick!
1st i put my vtec at 3000 rpm and it didnt do much just probaly f@#$ed up my engine mad burning smells,
2nd i set it to like 6800 rpm and boy am I supprised what vtec does to a car LOL
3rd i set it to around 4000 rpm and that gave me a great kick!
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please remind me how vtec engagement has anything to do with clutch/transmission problems? Also, why even install a vtec controller if he's not going to use it for its main purpose, TO CONTROL THE VTEC CROSSOVER.
Gearbox, do you have any evidence of engines getting screwed up by moving the vtec engagement point? If so please bring it forward.
Gearbox, do you have any evidence of engines getting screwed up by moving the vtec engagement point? If so please bring it forward.
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Well VTEC shifts over at 2800 RPMs. and usually unless you get the fuel map tuned to the new crossover, you can have A/F issues. The computer probably doesn't know entirely what to do with the low cam at 4400, just like it doesn't know what to do with the high cam at idle.
Just turning a **** to the crossover point that makes the car kick is kinda dumb.You know why it kicks? BECAUSE YOU'RE LOSING POWER YOU COULD BE MAKING BEFORE IT SHIFTS OVER.
Just turning a **** to the crossover point that makes the car kick is kinda dumb.You know why it kicks? BECAUSE YOU'RE LOSING POWER YOU COULD BE MAKING BEFORE IT SHIFTS OVER.
Originally Posted by XSRCivic
please remind me how vtec engagement has anything to do with clutch/transmission problems? Also, why even install a vtec controller if he's not going to use it for its main purpose, TO CONTROL THE VTEC CROSSOVER.
Gearbox, do you have any evidence of engines getting screwed up by moving the vtec engagement point? If so please bring it forward.
Gearbox, do you have any evidence of engines getting screwed up by moving the vtec engagement point? If so please bring it forward.
Last edited by se7engen_riDe; Oct 3, 2005 at 10:00 PM.
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um let me explain a few things. Vtec was set the way it is to smoothen out the rpms. By bumping it up, you lose tons of torque below that engagement. Here is another thing. Vtec is not a set point. It varies depending on throttle position and rpm. There are also very specific conditions that the ecu must see before it deems "safe" to engage the hi cam vtec. Some of these are oil pressure, full throttle, coolant warmed up, over 4500rpms, etc before the vtec solenoid will even change over. Now can you see why its bad to have a vtec controler set this to a specific rpm at ALL conditions? All of what I've said has been recorded with a data logger by a member here.
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do not change it. Let the ecu deal with it. Its far too complicated to just assign a single rpm value. You guys are gonna have serious issues when vtec is engaging even though one or more of the safe conditions aren't met.
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right now the tuning is off cause I'm adding exhaust and cam gear soon. just installing an intake completely messed it up. Before I had it tuned with pnp head and header and got 2whp but I could feel a difference. Now it doesn't feel tuned. Rpm is not as smooth, not as much power. I'm really hoping for another 10whp after cam and a/f tuning./
damn 10 whp gain is a lot with adding a cam gear and a/f tuning. if it gives out that much power then its well worth the money IMO. I was thinking about getting this VAFC2. what do you think? should i get this with the cam gear and put it on and tune everything together?
a vafc2 is a cheap way of gettin things tuned and what not.. i only recommend it if you have a dx/lx and want to convert to ex vtec then i suggest you use the vafc2 to control it... i have (had) a vafc2 running in my car for almost 2 years with no problem with vtec engaging at 4800 but then that was because i did a head swap. so in a sense using a vafc2 to adjust vtec only is pointless unless you do other things to the car and get it properly tuned
all i gotta say is how much you willing to spend... yes you can do good with i/h/e and cams and cam gears.. but if you spend way more why not invest in a emanage?.. thats why i say it all depends on how tight your budget is and what not.. dont forget you also need someone to tune it as well
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all i know is i spent (and continue to spend) thousands for mods that are doing very little. Granted I have an auto and starting at 90whp isn't the greatest. But man if I don't get 110whp with quality brand IHE, pnp, valve job, milled head, cam gear, vafcII all tuned, something's seriously wrong with honda. There are members making close to 140whp with that setup and manual trans.
Look at this...
pnp head $740 (install = $250, friends helped)
typhoon intake $180
kamikaze header $350
RS*R exhaust $550
Cam Gear $180 (but I spent over $200 cause vendors screwed me)
Timing/gear install $300
cam/vafcII tuning $150-200
holy crap I've spent as much as a turbo for 10-20whp is that worth it??
this doesn't even include all the parts and fluids I had to buy like $100 head bolts, coolant/oils, gaskets, pulley, belt, water pump, geez.After I get the exhaust and cam gear installed and everything tuned, I am DONE for good!
Look at this...
pnp head $740 (install = $250, friends helped)
typhoon intake $180
kamikaze header $350
RS*R exhaust $550
Cam Gear $180 (but I spent over $200 cause vendors screwed me)
Timing/gear install $300
cam/vafcII tuning $150-200
holy crap I've spent as much as a turbo for 10-20whp is that worth it??
this doesn't even include all the parts and fluids I had to buy like $100 head bolts, coolant/oils, gaskets, pulley, belt, water pump, geez.After I get the exhaust and cam gear installed and everything tuned, I am DONE for good!
Last edited by gearbox; Oct 4, 2005 at 12:46 AM.
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well after those few mods, my car is gonna be done. I'm already happy with looks. It just hurts when someone gets 10whp after tuning their IHE on a manual.
I/H/E and VFAC II . gained 14 hp and 8 lbs of torque after dyno. My VTEC engagment is 2400 and runs smooth with no problems I love hearing the VTEC kick in make me feel all tingly inside.
Originally Posted by gearbox
when they tuned mine, they said the vtec is best at 2800rpm but i put it back to stock
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true always different. auto was my choice, cause I don't know stick that well. Once I learn how by taking a class or something, my next car will be stick for sure. Maybe even this car if i find somewhere to do a manual swap hehe.
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