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what's the biggest turbo a d17a2 can handle daily driven....??

what is t3/t4 turbo?
what is better? t3/4 or t4?

any suggestion would be appreciated...

can our cars handle garrett gt25/40r daily driven?

thanx

 
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yes the D17 can handle both a t25 and a t3/t4 with no internal mods what matters is the amount of boost(psi) you are planning on running. you can make more power with a t3/t4 on 12psi then a t25 on 12psi. the t25 spools faster but you will lose torque and power at high rpm. the t25 has trouble "keeping up" with the motor at high rpm that will lead to power and torque loss(not really a loss but leveling out insead of continuing to climb) at high rpm. you wont have that problem with a t3/t4 but it will spool a little slower. so a t3/t4 is a good bet. but you would probly be happy with either for daily driving.

 
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GT28RS. Accept no substitutes. By far the best sub #14 street turbo for a smaller engine. Super quick spool, power to redline, will flow enough to make up to 350hp if you ever go that far, and you won't have to change turbos to do it.

 
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ludes-r-cooler: that's some interesting stuff there....but i doubt i'll run 12psi, maybe closer to 8....

pb4ugo: i'll think about that one....still thinking that the gt25 and 28 are a little out of my league in price wise...haha

any other suggestions would be appreciated....

also wondering what's the best brand for turbo's? is it still garrett?
and is the t3/t4 better than the t4?

 
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Forget the GT28RS


Get the one on the left!!!!


Or this one, T51R, good to 1,000 horsepower

 
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T3/T4 will be a better bet for a D-Series street car. Heck, one of our business partners pulled 470whp out of his 99 Civic Si with a built B16 and a T3/T67. Had a huge compressor, but the hot side was still a T3 footprint.

Fact is, in anything other than a full race application, your engine won't be boosting high enough to use most full T4 turbos in their efficiency range.

A T3/To4e in a .54 or .63 A/R would spool somewhere above 4 grand but provide good top end power.

 
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I would also second the GT28RS. Very good turbo.

 
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gt28..look at my numbers...you cant complain. All that torque is what's fun...especially on a honda

 
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yea..but gt28 is soo expensive..haha

and man, that turbo is bigger than my head

 
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you could get just a t25 u dont need the gt series or just a t28 but a t4 is way to big it wont spool until like 4700 or 5000 maybe even later sam with the t51r. you just gotta make a decision if i was in your situation i would go with a t3/t4. i work for a shop called DV motorsports we just finished a t25 custom turbo kit it hauls *** but i think the dude would have been more happy with a straight t3 or maybe a t3/t4. i have seen it all before a kid gets a t25 cause its cheap then he runs a 15 sec 1/4 mile then is real pissed cause he didnt get the big power turbo.

all in all get a T3/T4 its a damn good choice.

 
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I think DV motorsports needs to send you to english class.

And there are so many different T3/T4 hybrids, you can't just say a "T3/T4."

 
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^agreed

any particular brands?

just a side note here...i'm also planning to work on some internals....nothing like pistons etc, maybe springs and retainers? would those help? and probably injectors as well...

piping would all be custom done, and what's a good intercooler? any specs on the intercooler so it would fit?

 
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As far as a T3/T4 hybrid, just buy one from www.cheapturbo.com, if you have any doubts on which to get, call the guys there and explain your power goals and engine, they'll help you out.

I am still a huge proponent of the GT28RS since it will flow as much air on the big end for you at safe boost levels as the more common smaller T3/T4s, but have MUCH better spool characteristics.

Also, for what it sounds like you are looking for, don't even touch the valvetrain or head. Spend your money on things you will need. Fuel. Management. Tuning costs. If you are going to do internals, then do the bottom end, factory Honda heads tend to be quite decent out of the box, especially for a street car.

Just for poops and giggles, may I PLEASE stress again the importance of tuning, and proper fuel delivery. These two things alone will make or break your engine.

 
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i maybe turbo stupid, but not that stupid..of course i'm gonna dyno tune my car....

i'm planning to get the greddy emanage, bigger injectors, maybe fuel rail if required etc....
i already have the vafc2, so that'll help tune a little bit...

any suggestions on the bottom end stuff? do we even have bottom end stuff for our cars?

is alcohol injection mandatory? what does it do?

 
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If you plan to use the e-manage, ditch the AFC and get some money back, they are both piggybacks, and the e-manage is quite a bit more powerful tool. E-manage made the difference for us betweer an 11.9 and an 11.3 on one of our customer's VR-4s switching from an SAFC and going from draw through to blow through with the MAF.

As far as internals, http://www.raceeng.com already offers pistons, rods, bearings, and rings. You may need to call for quotes and orders, I'm not entirely sure if they have the parts listed on their website yet. You can do a basic bottom end build and should be safe on a good tune up to about 20psi before stock sleeves start to flex. At least this is my experience with older d-series engines.

Alky should not be an issue for you, and as far as I'm concerned, it's only a bandaid anyways. Spearco even admits that below 7# the average intercooler setup hurts performance more than it helps through pressure drop in the core and addition of extra piping/bends. I would still reccomend an intercooler on a street car for piece of mind however. I see no reason you shouldn't be able to run up to 10# with a conservatively sized turbo, good intercooling, and a great tune.

 
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well my friend said i can keep the vafc2 and also connect the emanage...i can't ditch the vafc2 cause i kinda custom integrated it into my car....so he said the vafc can help with courser adjustments, while the emanage will help with finer adjustments

 
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Sorry, I missed the second question.

Alcohol injection is another inexpensive way of lowering intake charge and combustion chamber temperatures. As alcohol is atomized into the intake stream, it boils by the latent heat or energy in the intake charge and thus cools the air. Cooler intake temps will lower combustion chamber temperatures and decrease the chances of detonation.

My problem with alky even on a boost sensetive switch is that you keep a resevoir of it, and resevoirs run out when you neglect to check levels and refill. Proper addition of fuel and adequate intercooling dies just as good as alky on a streetcar without the slight risk that the one time you forget to top of the resevoir you hit boost, run out of alky, and turn your motor into a boat anchor.

 
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If thats the case, I would still only use the e-manage, and simply use the AFC to monitor alll those fun things it can such as throttle position, and digital RPM readout. It's more accurate than the factory tach, and it adds a bit of flair to the admittedly drab interiors of these civics

 
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well i'm going to get an intercooler..so maybe i'll just say **** it to the alcohol injection...
i'll still be keeping the vafc2, and i'll also be getting the emanage...the thing is now, i need money..hahaha

i found a manifold i want (equal length)
i found a turbo i want (gt28rs)

i need to find an intercooler which will fit my car...

and finally, is the stock intake manifold any good? it's plastic...i've heard ups and downs...up is it's completely smooth on the inside....down is it doesn't dissipate heat...

 
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nevermind, maybe i'll just stick with t3/t4 turbo...the guy wants 1000usd for it which is cheap compared to others..but a little out of my league..

 
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Since you are building the system yourself, and price is an issue. Just really sit down and think of every possible thing you could need down to clamps and silicon connectors. Write it out, then decide from there how much you can really afford to spend on a manifold and turbo, these are the two items that you are most likely going to be able to pick up used or for better prices as time goes on and you start collecting parts.

 
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pb4ugo: check ur pm

and yea, i guess, i dunno, i'm still interested in the equal length header cause i've seen dyno charts on this site where cars got an extra 60whp or something (it was on a mr2), and i've heard amazing stuff about them on subaru's too...

 
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dude http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT

1000 usd is a lot for a t3/t4... you could get this nice gt28r for 775 at atpturbo check it out

 
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I agree most T3/T4 setups sell for around $700-$800 new, but you can usually get a good rebuilt one for around $300-$500.

 
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You need to specify a little more precisely than just T3/T4. There are about 500 different variations of those. I would recommend reading about turbo sizing and compressor/turbine maps and how to match those to a given engine.

 
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http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=174045

compressor maps are on that list
alcohol injection is on that list
bottom end buildup is on that list

 
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We discussed this in PM

 
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yep thanx guys