Rep Power: 584

the IAT cannot be in a positive pressurized pipe

u will get a BAROMETRIC PRESSURE CODE, i moved mine after i got the code and i havent gotten it since

 
Rep Power: 607

for those of you that are triming the radiator fan shroud to fit the the piping all, all i gotta says is this...........

There are 5 bolts on the compressor housing, i forget what size. You loosen them up a little and the whole compressor housing will rotate.

As far as the intake pipe pinching the radiator hose, it will do that. I've been boosting for 6 months and have made some long trips with no problems of overheating. You can buy flexible hose..........but i haven't looked for it yet.

 
Rep Power: 584

i used some d16 hoses on my aftermarket radiaotor

 
Rep Power: 318

We have successfully driven the car, everything seems to be good! we're currently getting like 3 psi max (revved up to 5k) , but we're thinking it may just be because the MBC is at a low setting. otherwise we may be getting a leak at the T fitting in the vacuum lines (the factory line seemed to have a larger inner diameter than the T fitting's diameter)

the fuel pump is obnoxiously noisy, sometimes it sounds like an old packard bell trying to run Doom or something. any simple remedies for that?

other minor things.. the BOV is rattling against the hood slightly-- I guess we'll cut the coupling just a bit more. there's a rattle behind the glove box area in the engine, probably the air filter or the piping leading to it.

 
Rep Power: 318

I should also mention that my fuel pressure has always been steady at 50, even when the boost gauge is reading 3psi.. shouldn't that up it a little, or does the SF fuel system not kick in until a certain psi?;

Here's a pic of the wastegate/hallman MBC:



and a pic of where we tapped into the vacuum hose:

 
Rep Power: 0

Looks good man

 
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awesome man, once you get the little quarks worked out turn that boost up!!

 
Rep Power: 298

yeah im dying to see some dyno numbers

 
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looks good mex... hey, I'm in PW, and have been toying w/ the idea of boosting my civic.. I'd like to check out one in person when you get everything ironed out.

 
Rep Power: 312

it should start going up after a few psi. 50 psi is base pressure, and thats good for 2-3 psi. if it doesnt, i will send you a new one out.

 
Rep Power: 318

thats customer support!!!! . you get a new tranny yet catalyst?
I want to come down see you run at the track sometime with your civic!
whats it now 12 secounds?

 
Rep Power: 312

i had to edit mine, because i just saw that he doesnt have the new one.

sorry.

 
Rep Power: 318

ohh ya. Yourinmyworld kit rocks!! aka Johns. hes running rich though, its been like a year now ehs had it and still needs it tuned on the dyno....
thats his fualt though should get lazy *** to one

 
Rep Power: 312

lol.

Yes. I fixed my tranny. I am still leary of putting the slicks on my car, since that is what broke the tranny and my 6 puck.

But yea, 12's should be no problem.


Anyway, back on topic.
Mex, if it doesnt increase, send me a PM. Ill send you another system, and you can send that one back when you get it.

 
Rep Power: 318

thanks for the reply, it seems to be working now we're leaving it around 4psi for the time being. would you have any recommendation for a less noisy pump?

 
Rep Power: 312

Well, i have 2 options that i came up with for my car....

Option #1. You can purchase a pressure switch, drill and tap your bonett pipe, and set the pressure switch to come on a .5 psi. So the pump will only come on under boost.

Pressure switches run from $15-$50 depending on where you get them.

Option #2. You can purchase the black box piggyback for $265, which comes with a program and extra wire that control the fuel system. Only turns it on under boost. So when you are cruising or idling, the pump is not on. This ems is very similar to an emanage without the timing addon.

 
Rep Power: 318

Option 2 is tempting. Is this something that can be tuned using a laptop, gathering the data as you drive? do you have any more info about it?

I'm wondering how easy it would be to install/tune on my own. Dyno's are hard to come by around here.

 
Rep Power: 312

Well, you would need a wideband O2 sensor and a laptop to program it. I do almost all of my tuning on the road, and then just check it on the dyno. The ems can datalog some things, like boost vs RPM and then some external inputs that you can configure (but i have never used).

If you are interested, it is the Split Second programmable signal conditioner.