Mex's Turbo Project: Complete!
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 
congrats.....hope everything goes at planned (it won't 
)
yes, that is correct for the fuel. Your fuel system should be marked "In" and "Out"
as far as the IAT sensor...........SF does not provide a hole for it...........so u have to tie if off.
I am gonna do Madwheel's DIY for that
)yes, that is correct for the fuel. Your fuel system should be marked "In" and "Out"
as far as the IAT sensor...........SF does not provide a hole for it...........so u have to tie if off.
I am gonna do Madwheel's DIY for that
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 actually, looking at that pic now, that fuel system is not right.
The pump should be on the other side of the FMU. See that little aluminum piece that forms a "U"...........that is a bypass. If your pump breaks, then fuel will not get to your rail. The bypass will still allow fuel to flow through the fuel sytem to ur rail.
The pump should be on the other side of the FMU. See that little aluminum piece that forms a "U"...........that is a bypass. If your pump breaks, then fuel will not get to your rail. The bypass will still allow fuel to flow through the fuel sytem to ur rail.
The IAT needs to be used in the manner as if it were stock. If you do not hook it up your car will not run right, even tho it may seem to. It needs to be mounted somewhere near the throttle body. I used my throttle body elbow of the injen intake because it has a bung. Hope this helps
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From: *UCF* Orlando, FL
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if you don't have it made to work with the upper charge pipes it will cause that obnoxious Rev up and down problem that you here some older honda owners have when they are next to you, they aren't revving, the Temp sensor just doesn't see that the engine is hot already so it is constantly trying to warm it up....
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From: Northern Virginia
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Originally Posted by Hwoody77
Mex, I'm not trying to offend you or anything but explain this to me....
A fully built block to run boost with a SF Fuel system?
A fully built block to run boost with a SF Fuel system?
so basically, I can just drill a hole for the IAT before the throttle body? Seems simple enough.
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 312 You have a choice..
You can either drill a hole in a charge pipe and install it there.
or
You can tie it off. As long as the sensor is hooked up, the car will never know the difference. It only uses it to slightly modify the fuel trims according to temperature. Its just Honda trying to get the most fuel efficient vehicle.
You can either drill a hole in a charge pipe and install it there.
or
You can tie it off. As long as the sensor is hooked up, the car will never know the difference. It only uses it to slightly modify the fuel trims according to temperature. Its just Honda trying to get the most fuel efficient vehicle.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
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Originally Posted by Catalyst
You have a choice..
You can either drill a hole in a charge pipe and install it there.
or
You can tie it off. As long as the sensor is hooked up, the car will never know the difference. It only uses it to slightly modify the fuel trims according to temperature. Its just Honda trying to get the most fuel efficient vehicle.
You can either drill a hole in a charge pipe and install it there.
or
You can tie it off. As long as the sensor is hooked up, the car will never know the difference. It only uses it to slightly modify the fuel trims according to temperature. Its just Honda trying to get the most fuel efficient vehicle.
Actually it effects timing more than fuel.....I would install it. When heat increases, timing decreases.....rather useful little device if you want to run boost.
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From: Daytona Beach, Florida, US
Rep Power: 349 hey mex.. i didnt know you were still on here... i hope your project finishes well and cant wait to see the finished product. good luck
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 i have mine turned off and when it is hot outside, i get a CEL
I am gonna thread the sensor and tap the charge pipe like madwheel did
I am gonna thread the sensor and tap the charge pipe like madwheel did
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From: Northern Virginia
Rep Power: 318 I went ahead and drilled a hole near the BOV for the IAT, then just used the grommet from my old intake.
Well, we accomplished a lot today, all we have left to do is attach the IC piping, replace the oil pan, run oil lines and run a few more wires in the engine bay.
We have run into a couple issues-- the main of which is there just isn't ANY room around the turbo to do anything. we had to take off the wastegate just to fit the turbo/manifold into place, then reattach it.
we had to stop for the night because it was getting dark, but at the time we were stumped about how to run the piping, because it's very crowded around the turbo. we were trying to attach the turbo to the intercooler, but we can't get the pipe to fit in the tiny space we have to work with. it's rubbing against the radiator fan and all kinds of hoses. I'm skeptical now if i even have a kit made for a 7th gen. Take a look at the pic... do I have all the [correct] pipes? Does the manifold look right?
Well, we accomplished a lot today, all we have left to do is attach the IC piping, replace the oil pan, run oil lines and run a few more wires in the engine bay.
We have run into a couple issues-- the main of which is there just isn't ANY room around the turbo to do anything. we had to take off the wastegate just to fit the turbo/manifold into place, then reattach it.
we had to stop for the night because it was getting dark, but at the time we were stumped about how to run the piping, because it's very crowded around the turbo. we were trying to attach the turbo to the intercooler, but we can't get the pipe to fit in the tiny space we have to work with. it's rubbing against the radiator fan and all kinds of hoses. I'm skeptical now if i even have a kit made for a 7th gen. Take a look at the pic... do I have all the [correct] pipes? Does the manifold look right?
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 it will fit. You need to trim three of the black plastic supports for the passenger side fan. That fan is pretty much useless once you install the kit. Did you bang out or grind down the metal on the side where the intercooler pipes go into the engine bay area? That helped me a lot, and according to the DIY it's a must. Also, there's a lil bracket on the back of the batter that sticks out to hold some wires or whatnot, dremel that off and the upper charge pipe will sit much happier.
If you blow pipes off the couplers once in a while, spray the edges with some hair spray. No more probs after that.
If you blow pipes off the couplers once in a while, spray the edges with some hair spray. No more probs after that.
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 312 is the pipe off the bottom of the turbo rubbing? If so, the turbo may be clocked a degree or two off. It is normally a very tight fit. If it is impossible for that pipe to fit, then you may need to re-clock the compressor housing of the turbo.
If it is impossible to fit the pipe, the compressor will need to be clocked 1-3 degrees towards the block. This is accomplished by losening the bolts holding the housing on, then easily turning the housing. Make sure that when you tighten the bolts, you tighten them all down evenly, going in small increments.
Here is a diagram of where the pipes go. I hope this helps with the install.
This routing Starts with the TB at the top, to the intercooler, to the turbo, then to the filter.
If it is impossible to fit the pipe, the compressor will need to be clocked 1-3 degrees towards the block. This is accomplished by losening the bolts holding the housing on, then easily turning the housing. Make sure that when you tighten the bolts, you tighten them all down evenly, going in small increments.
Here is a diagram of where the pipes go. I hope this helps with the install.
This routing Starts with the TB at the top, to the intercooler, to the turbo, then to the filter.
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From: Northern Virginia
Rep Power: 318 Thanks for the info! We're back to work.
... and stopped just as quickly, damn rain. we won't have a chance to get back to work until sunday morning. another thing that's confusing us are the couplings.. we're not certain where each size should go. The coupling we have on the bonnet has some room for air to enter/escape through the sides (mainly because of the shape), but I don't think a smaller coupling would fit on it.
... and stopped just as quickly, damn rain. we won't have a chance to get back to work until sunday morning. another thing that's confusing us are the couplings.. we're not certain where each size should go. The coupling we have on the bonnet has some room for air to enter/escape through the sides (mainly because of the shape), but I don't think a smaller coupling would fit on it.
Last edited by Mex; Oct 2, 2004 at 09:19 AM.
Chicks dig my scent
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From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 definately get rid of the black pieces over the fan, i think it'll clear up some room and make things a bit easier. Other than that looks really good, i also wouldnt put a smaller coupling over the bonnet, but as long as it is no major problem (boost leak) or anything like that you should be fine, good job man
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From: Northern Virginia
Rep Power: 318 Here's an update with more pics.
We have a new problem. the intake pipe to the turbo is pinching the lower radiator hose pretty bad at the inlet (see pic below). the inner diameter is pinched to about half of what it should be. how did you SF turbo guys work around this?
We have a new problem. the intake pipe to the turbo is pinching the lower radiator hose pretty bad at the inlet (see pic below). the inner diameter is pinched to about half of what it should be. how did you SF turbo guys work around this?
