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Old 09-04-2004
  #31  
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why would you buy a 180 head gasket when you can get the nippon leakless for 22.00?
Old 09-04-2004
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Originally Posted by Dapper
ok thats a myth. maybe holds true in the past.
BUT I have changed my headgasket 4 times. and Used the same bolts each time. Last time i did them was 6 months ago. since then i changed to k22's(regapped them also) , and pure methanol (118).... at 13psi the headgasket has been HOLDING STRONG, and its Daily Abused- Not driven. Btw, I changed
my alky injection to turn on at 10psi and up, its just Not needed before then.


... iv been turbo'd for a year and a half now alteast.
Why did you have to change your gasket 4 times?
Old 09-04-2004
  #33  
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I got it because it was there when i needed it, free install (when they helped), free tuning, and its got a lifetime warranty...so in my opinion, it was worth it, thats just me though
Old 09-04-2004
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not a bad deal then. But for everyone who changed their own head gasket. How did you remove the head and not disrupt the timing? did you wedge something in the crank pulley and set it to TDC?
Old 09-04-2004
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The guys that did mine just kinda made sure the timing belt was held up so it doesn't fall off the bottom gears. I think they also marked the belt and cam gear so they know where it matches up. Send a PM to civicstreetrcr and ask (I think it's the right member name).
Old 09-05-2004
  #36  
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
not a bad deal then. But for everyone who changed their own head gasket. How did you remove the head and not disrupt the timing? did you wedge something in the crank pulley and set it to TDC?

lol its called Re-doing the timing.

if u cant do the timing belt, removing it, replacing it , and setting it right... then you have no place in removing the head.
Old 09-05-2004
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Originally Posted by civicskater
definately get a nippon, im using a nippon like metal headgasket that this local shop made for me, kinda pricey (180), but they said its garaunteed to hold up to 15psi+, so if it does go i get another one for free. But definately replace the head bolts as well

its not gonna blow.. and thats problem.
you wont be getting another headgasket for FREE.
your engine will be blown way before that headgasket shows ne sign of wear.

YOU THINK THATS A GOOD THING?
Old 09-05-2004
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Originally Posted by Dapper
lol its called Re-doing the timing.

if u cant do the timing belt, removing it, replacing it , and setting it right... then you have no place in removing the head.
You can set the crank to TDC and mark the belt and use somthing to wedge in between the crank pulley so you can remove the head and replace the gasket and replace the head without having to re do the timing. I've done it before on domestics in class but i was wondering the other methods that people on here use.
Old 09-05-2004
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That's pretty much what they did on mine. The timing may be off a little anyway if your head is milled. As long as the car starts and runs well, then you didn't mess up. Otherwise, good luck tryin to fix it.
Old 09-06-2004
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watch out, if the timing belt tentioner spring/pulley is not set up right your belt will remaing lose and jump timing or the spring will come lose and cause havoc inside your timing housing.
There is a specific way to set up the belt timing and the tentioner at the same time.
At this point if you are doing this much work to your head/engine I'll strongly suggest buying the service manual is very clear and specific.
Old 09-06-2004
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I have the manual and it's not clear on how to tighten, or it's too hard for me to do. I took it to Honda and they said a loose belt won't cause problems?
Old 09-06-2004
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Originally Posted by gearbox
I have the manual and it's not clear on how to tighten, or it's too hard for me to do. I took it to Honda and they said a loose belt won't cause problems?
Hey Gear I mean no diz or flame.
But a lose belt broke my cranckshaft sensor and gear.

If the belt is lose, it only gets tight as you rev up the engine cause that's the way the tentioner pulls the belt, counter clockwise.
I becames a problem when your engine revs down cause the tentioner is no longer pulling and if the belt is lose to begin with, it will jump the gears or brake lose the spring, it may not happen inmediately but eventualy it will.

The tentioner works automaticly.
But it has to be set up manualy this tentioner has a spring and two levers with a small hole in it.
When installing the belt you suppose to put a temporary pin aligning both levers together then place the spring, then turn the cam gear and crankshaft pulleys to match the time marking on the block as specified on the book then install the belt.
Then with the belt in place turn the crankshaft counter clockwise couple of times so that the belts sets in all gears, then remove the pin on the tentioner levers.
Then you are set up.

The chapter on the motor head is kind of long but if you read it fully and carefully it all makes sense.
Sure there is many ways to skin a cat.
But there is only one way to do all this right.
Just my 0.2

Last edited by Supermex; 09-06-2004 at 03:51 PM.
Old 09-06-2004
  #43  
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Wow, is there a way to just tighten it now? Or does the belt need to come off or something else.
Old 09-06-2004
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Wow, is there a way to just tighten it now? Or does the belt need to come off or something else.
I don't see how your shop didn't removed the belt to install the headgasket.
Most mechanics won't do it because the motor mount has to be remove to get access to the tentioner.
Another D17 set back.
You'll have to go back and follow the instructions on the book for belt tighting.
My book is at the shop now with the turbo guys so I can give you more details

But I'm sure you'll have to remove the belt and set up again.

A qick test:
Remove the top plastic cover of your timing belt assembly 10mm bolts
Expose the cam gear.
Put the car on park (auto) or emerg. brake (neutral)
If the belt looks loose at about 10 o'clook on the cam gear and if you can easiely pick it with a small screw driver at the same possition.
Your belt is loose.
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