All Upgrades to run more BOOST!!!
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All Upgrades to run more BOOST!!!
I was just wondering for those of you who have their D17 boosted and running anywhere between 7-14 psi, some are running at low 7s and some of you running at higher psi with stock internals.
Can any of you suggest what would be the best and most effective upgrades in order to run more boost and improve its efficiency at the same time?
Any opinions is welcomed. If upgrades are needed on SF's existing parts and need to be replaced also please post here as well.
ALSO PLEASE PROVIDE LINK or URL TO ORDER THOSE PARTS ALONG WITH YOUR POSTS. Thank you very much.
Can any of you suggest what would be the best and most effective upgrades in order to run more boost and improve its efficiency at the same time?
Any opinions is welcomed. If upgrades are needed on SF's existing parts and need to be replaced also please post here as well.
ALSO PLEASE PROVIDE LINK or URL TO ORDER THOSE PARTS ALONG WITH YOUR POSTS. Thank you very much.
I don't know the links but i do know you need Bigger Injectors RSX ones might work. Pistons, Rods, sleeved or Block Guard (KMS has a blockguard)
or you can buy exospeeds built block for $2400 they say its bullet proof
or you can buy exospeeds built block for $2400 they say its bullet proof
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#1 is sleeved block.
also....... pistons, rods, return fuel set-up with bigger injectors cuz SF's FMU isn't efficent enough to run higher boost. Also, you will need a piggyback.
also....... pistons, rods, return fuel set-up with bigger injectors cuz SF's FMU isn't efficent enough to run higher boost. Also, you will need a piggyback.
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Originally Posted by 1320Racing
12:1 compression in a turbo motor
LOL
I have yet to see that in a 4cylinder
Internals
Internals
Internals
LOL
I have yet to see that in a 4cylinder
Internals
Internals
Internals
most sleeved blocks are bullet proof, they are tested between 40-55 on some. the people who are running double digit boost on their completely stock internals ARE STUPID!!!!!!! its only a matter of time, so dont get the idea that u should be like them. cover all ur basis before u get started so u dont have a headache later
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Thanks for your advice, when you said cover your basis before getting started, what are the basis? Please list them out thanks again.
most sleeved blocks are bullet proof, they are tested between 40-55 on some. the people who are running double digit boost on their completely stock internals ARE STUPID!!!!!!! its only a matter of time, so dont get the idea that u should be like them. cover all ur basis before u get started so u dont have a headache later
Originally Posted by C2i0v0i1C
most sleeved blocks are bullet proof, they are tested between 40-55 on some. the people who are running double digit boost on their completely stock internals ARE STUPID!!!!!!! its only a matter of time, so dont get the idea that u should be like them. cover all ur basis before u get started so u dont have a headache later
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I think he meant bases.. like cover all your bases.. as in baseball
by that i'm sure he meant check out everything you can do, and know what you want to do.. (RESEARCH!!)
by that i'm sure he meant check out everything you can do, and know what you want to do.. (RESEARCH!!)
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I want to run around 9 psi for now. I do want to built my block after the turbo installation. It won't be done probraly couple of months after that, I'm just little frustrated with all these issues people are having after installed their turbos
Originally Posted by C2i0v0i1C
most sleeved blocks are bullet proof, they are tested between 40-55 on some. the people who are running double digit boost on their completely stock internals ARE STUPID!!!!!!! its only a matter of time, so dont get the idea that u should be like them. cover all ur basis before u get started so u dont have a headache later
How did you run your return fuel system? IF you would please help me out and PM me and maybe write me Up a DIY like what was needed and where to get it. etc... i would SOO Really appreciate it. Thanks Again man.
Last edited by ImportRacer2123; Jun 10, 2004 at 11:42 PM.
Originally Posted by carbonrevo
I want to run around 9 psi for now. I do want to built my block after the turbo installation. It won't be done probraly couple of months after that, I'm just little frustrated with all these issues people are having after installed their turbos
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Originally Posted by CivicMexicano
what ratio is the SF Vortech FMU 8:1??
And CarbonRevo, you need to look through all the threads for your answers, this forum (esp FI) is FULL of information if you just look for it instead of asking for it... Research means looking and asking, not just asking... Especially when people spell it out in this post and you still ask for more details... The details are here bro, take time and look for it....

Edit: Also here are links to Opto's return setup thanks to tfnaaf...
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...8&postcount=11
Edit 2: Ironically I searched more and found a thread labelled "DIY return fuel system"
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...=return+system
Last edited by Havok2k1; Jun 11, 2004 at 01:16 AM.
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cover the basics is what i meant in that post. by that i mean dont go around running 10+ boost on stock internals. STUPID!! bound to blow without reinforcements. pistons and rods will be the first things to go with this high of boost, then the sleeves. most people dont have the money to build and turbo at the same time, but its the smart way to go
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as far as the DIY return system, and me posting one, that will never happen. bc 1. i didnt do it. 2. the guy who did it wont even tell me. hes proud that he got b series 440cc injectors to fit in my stock rail
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Originally Posted by Havok2k1
So people are running 90psi of fuel at 9lbs?
well, nobody tested it with a fuel pressure gauge.........but theirs is a 10:1
SF does increase 10:1 psi of fuel pressure per lb of boost. I had a fuel pressure gauge on my setup and everytime I hit 5 psi boost or more, my needle would bury at 100 psi fuel pressure. Couldn't tell you how much it was past that, my gauge didn't go higher than 100.
As far as buildup goes....
There are only a few things you need to do to make decent power. The real question is, how much power do you want? If you'd be happy at 250 hp, all you really need to do is tune your fuel and ignition. If you are tuned properly, you're internals can hold that much, it's been proven time and again on d16 blocks. A greddy emanage can do that for you. If you run, say, 10 psi, pull the correct amount of timing and spend a little bit of time on the dyno, you should be able to make over 220 whp on the dyno with an ex. Consider that to be roughly 240ish crank horsepower. With that, you are at your goal. It can be done with no bottom end work, you just have to tune your fuel curve to make power and make sure that your timing is where it needs to be so that you don't detonate and tear up the pistons and rods.
As far as buildup goes....
There are only a few things you need to do to make decent power. The real question is, how much power do you want? If you'd be happy at 250 hp, all you really need to do is tune your fuel and ignition. If you are tuned properly, you're internals can hold that much, it's been proven time and again on d16 blocks. A greddy emanage can do that for you. If you run, say, 10 psi, pull the correct amount of timing and spend a little bit of time on the dyno, you should be able to make over 220 whp on the dyno with an ex. Consider that to be roughly 240ish crank horsepower. With that, you are at your goal. It can be done with no bottom end work, you just have to tune your fuel curve to make power and make sure that your timing is where it needs to be so that you don't detonate and tear up the pistons and rods.
Originally Posted by kezay
What do you feel is the highest compression we could run with boost (with the correct tuning)
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