Tapping oil pan, help!
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Tapping oil pan, help!
Okay, since i have an EX and the pan is aluminum and its going to be hard to find someone to be able to weld it, i came to the decision that it would be easier to just tap the pan put the fitting in there without welding it.
I know SF came up with a way so can some please help me out. Thanks in advance.
I know SF came up with a way so can some please help me out. Thanks in advance.
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not quite sure what you are asking 
SF's fitting is a triangular piece with a tube in the center. At each corner of the triangle is a bolt. You drill your hole for the tube, then drill the holes for the bolts and bolt it up.
SF's fitting is a triangular piece with a tube in the center. At each corner of the triangle is a bolt. You drill your hole for the tube, then drill the holes for the bolts and bolt it up.
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Rep Power: 0 SF has a fitting that bolts into the oil pan. You just drill the normal hole for the fitting then three bolt holes. It's hard to explain...the fitting comes pre-welded in the center of a triangle piece. You then use three nuts and bolts to attach it to the inside of the pan with the fitting sticking outside. I know that a while back when SF started offering this someone made drawing of it to better explain. Hope this helps a little
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Rep Power: 285 i know nothing about this sf turbo kit, but from the way it sounds, you dont need to weld this piece in the oil pan, since you were debating about it in the other thread. just put some very oil resistant rtv around the fitting, and bolt it into the pan. but let it fully cure before you bolt the pan back on and put oil in
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Rep Power: 0 Sam, whatever you do, DO NOT us any type of oil RESISTANT RTV silicone...others may stand by it, but eventually you will be doing something else to fix it...i am a prime example of that....that is why my fitting is welded...if you do use the silicone, make sure that both contact areas are spotless....no oil, dirt, etc.....because if you dont, it will not last....i used the best silicone know to man, that several shops suggested...and it still didnt work....might as well do it the right way first
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Rep Power: 285 then you obviouly did something wrong. people use rtv in oil areas all the time, hell, on my old car the oil pans entire gasket was rtv, from the factory, and after i took it off to replace it. just because you used it wrong doesnt mean it sucks
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Rep Power: 607 i used Komatsu (heavy equipment maker) gasket maker and used copper washers for the nuts and double nutted it........mine will never leak 
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Rep Power: 0 so do i need to find a fitting with threads on both ends, and the find 2 copper washers, 2 bolts, drill the hole and put the fitting through, put the washer and bolt on each end and then put komatsu on both sides?
This appiles to CIVIC01VTEC, you seem to be knowledgable.
This appiles to CIVIC01VTEC, you seem to be knowledgable.
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Rep Power: 306 You could tap the pan to accept the fitting directly. But if you get less than 3 threads, you are not going to get a good seal. Adding sealant is only a slow down, not a fix. The right, best, and most reliable way is to have a bung welded in by a competant welder. Any good welder can heliarc aluminum, when it is done properly, you will have a connection that will outlast everything else and never leak.
Originally Posted by rickinthescv
You could tap the pan to accept the fitting directly. But if you get less than 3 threads, you are not going to get a good seal. Adding sealant is only a slow down, not a fix. The right, best, and most reliable way is to have a bung welded in by a competant welder. Any good welder can heliarc aluminum, when it is done properly, you will have a connection that will outlast everything else and never leak.
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Originally Posted by Samari
so do i need to find a fitting with threads on both ends, and the find 2 copper washers, 2 bolts, drill the hole and put the fitting through, put the washer and bolt on each end and then put komatsu on both sides?
This appiles to CIVIC01VTEC, you seem to be knowledgable.
This appiles to CIVIC01VTEC, you seem to be knowledgable.
The SF fitting is a triangular piece of aluminum about 3/8th's thick with aluminum tube going through the center for the oil return hose which is welded on the outside of the tube to the triangular piece. At each corner of the triangular piece is a bolt to bolt it to the pan. SF gives you bolts and a lock nuts and on the head of the bolt they cut half of it off so when you tighten it down, the head will sit flush.......this is a horrible design
What i did was put the fitting in a vise and took a file and filed away some of the weld so a full bolt will sit flush, i then used a longer bolt than what they gave us and put the nuts on the outside of the pan with a copper washer on the bolts on the inside of the pan and put gasket maker on around the washer and slide it through. I put gasket maker on the triangular piece and bolt it down and double nutted every bolt.
That is the best way i could explain it w/o pics ..... hope you get the idea.
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Originally Posted by ctx66
then you obviouly did something wrong. people use rtv in oil areas all the time, hell, on my old car the oil pans entire gasket was rtv, from the factory, and after i took it off to replace it. just because you used it wrong doesnt mean it sucks
there are several others on here that back me up on what i said...like i said, and another,(couple posts down) it is only a slow down......the right was is to weld it....
sam, i own you, what are you talkin about
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Welding a bung in the pan is so easy. A five dollar bung, twenty dollars for the welding job, unless you have friends. Nothing protrudes into the pan itself, so not obstruction problems, and it will never come loose, no bolts to fall off and find their way to something interesting.
Plus, with the pipe threads and sealant, it should never, ever leak. Why save money only to worry later. But it is only the engine oil.
Welding a bung in the pan is so easy. A five dollar bung, twenty dollars for the welding job, unless you have friends. Nothing protrudes into the pan itself, so not obstruction problems, and it will never come loose, no bolts to fall off and find their way to something interesting.
Plus, with the pipe threads and sealant, it should never, ever leak. Why save money only to worry later. But it is only the engine oil.
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Originally Posted by rickinthescv
arghh
Welding a bung in the pan is so easy. A five dollar bung, twenty dollars for the welding job, unless you have friends. Nothing protrudes into the pan itself, so not obstruction problems, and it will never come loose, no bolts to fall off and find their way to something interesting.
Plus, with the pipe threads and sealant, it should never, ever leak. Why save money only to worry later. But it is only the engine oil.
Welding a bung in the pan is so easy. A five dollar bung, twenty dollars for the welding job, unless you have friends. Nothing protrudes into the pan itself, so not obstruction problems, and it will never come loose, no bolts to fall off and find their way to something interesting.
Plus, with the pipe threads and sealant, it should never, ever leak. Why save money only to worry later. But it is only the engine oil.
I agree with u man. i was exploring my options and luckily the lx pan that was tapped with the fitting welded on fit on my ex so its all good.
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Rep Power: 318 does anyone have pics of where they drilled the oil pan for the oil return line (on an EX preferably)? I am gonna order a new pan off majestic honda's site to get the install done faster. also, has anyone attached it other than welding? I'm wondering if JB weld would work for this application. I'm also going to attach some kind if rubber gasket to help seal it good.
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Originally Posted by Samari
I agree with u man. i was exploring my options and luckily the lx pan that was tapped with the fitting welded on fit on my ex so its all good.
Did you bolt that on your new pan? Last edited by player1002; Jun 12, 2004 at 03:51 PM.
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