What to have or not have before turbo
What to have or not have before turbo
Sorry if this is a repost, if it is just post the link cuz I looked for it in SEARCH couldn't find it.
I remember reading some post about people who put mods (bolt-ons) on their cars and other people saying they won't need it if they ever decide to turbo and other people saying they will need certian mods if they get turbo.. I am just starting to mod my car and I don't want to buy anything I won't need when I turbo my car cuz that is in my plans for sure. I doubt I will touch the body only wheels and lowering. Before I do sumthing with my engine / mods for it. Any help will be awesome... sorry if this is a repost again.. seems like alot of people get way pissed for repost.. Thx
Dave
Cheers
I remember reading some post about people who put mods (bolt-ons) on their cars and other people saying they won't need it if they ever decide to turbo and other people saying they will need certian mods if they get turbo.. I am just starting to mod my car and I don't want to buy anything I won't need when I turbo my car cuz that is in my plans for sure. I doubt I will touch the body only wheels and lowering. Before I do sumthing with my engine / mods for it. Any help will be awesome... sorry if this is a repost again.. seems like alot of people get way pissed for repost.. Thx
Dave
Cheers
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Originally posted by honda04civic
be a while before a 04 Turbo even comes out...
be a while before a 04 Turbo even comes out...
save a good 4k, so that u can get the complete turbo kit, and nice monitoring instruments and such
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Mine came to 4400 so I'd save more than that lol.
But yeah, only thing good is an exhaust, excluding the header and downpipe. Do not bother with an intake, no header, the AEM pulleys are a waste. No nitrous. NO JET ECU UPGRADE - major engine failure if you upgrade, Jet advances your ignition timing by 5 degrees, I had the chip before. I got rid of it and lost about 300 worth of mods in the end.
BUY: Turbo timer, boost controller, A/F gauge, boost gauge, oil psi gauge, and an EGT gauge is nice. If you're not buying a kit, make sure you get a fuel computer and a bov, those will help you from future problems.
Avoid synthetic oils. They tend to seep through the seals of the turbo as they wear in. I run 5W-30 Mobile-1 Drive-Clean formula.
Do not keep stock spark plugs. Use a colder rating, either NGK Iridium IXs, or the Denso IK20 or IK22s (iridium as well).
But yeah, only thing good is an exhaust, excluding the header and downpipe. Do not bother with an intake, no header, the AEM pulleys are a waste. No nitrous. NO JET ECU UPGRADE - major engine failure if you upgrade, Jet advances your ignition timing by 5 degrees, I had the chip before. I got rid of it and lost about 300 worth of mods in the end.
BUY: Turbo timer, boost controller, A/F gauge, boost gauge, oil psi gauge, and an EGT gauge is nice. If you're not buying a kit, make sure you get a fuel computer and a bov, those will help you from future problems.
Avoid synthetic oils. They tend to seep through the seals of the turbo as they wear in. I run 5W-30 Mobile-1 Drive-Clean formula.
Do not keep stock spark plugs. Use a colder rating, either NGK Iridium IXs, or the Denso IK20 or IK22s (iridium as well).
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why not synthetic oil once your synthetic you can't change back thats what I heard, I already used sythentic oil, and this is the first time I've heard a problem with sf and oil.
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Originally posted by MadWheel
Avoid synthetic oils. They tend to seep through the seals of the turbo as they wear in. I run 5W-30 Mobile-1 Drive-Clean formula.
Avoid synthetic oils. They tend to seep through the seals of the turbo as they wear in. I run 5W-30 Mobile-1 Drive-Clean formula.
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u can change back, but i wouldnt go changing oil types around with a turbo, synthtics dont break down as easily as regular oil, which is why u can go longer between oil changes but with turbo my god change it like clock work, i change my plugs each time i do it too, but u dont have to do that
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From: OKC, Oklahoma, US
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Most synthetics also can withstand higher temperatures, and are more able to leave a protectant film on parts so that cold starts are not as harsh. Synthetic oils also cool down faster than regular oils, making them more efficient in a turbo setup because the hot oil from the turbo won't be heating up the rest of the block. Most turbo people run synthetic oil for the higher temperature ratings and faster cooldown.
Never once heard of synthetic oils causing a problem with turbo seals... what brand turbos are the SF kits running? Certain brands may be more prone to this problem than others.
Never once heard of synthetic oils causing a problem with turbo seals... what brand turbos are the SF kits running? Certain brands may be more prone to this problem than others.
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Originally posted by RiceBurnrEX
Never once heard of synthetic oils causing a problem with turbo seals... what brand turbos are the SF kits running? Certain brands may be more prone to this problem than others.
Never once heard of synthetic oils causing a problem with turbo seals... what brand turbos are the SF kits running? Certain brands may be more prone to this problem than others.
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RiceburnrEx still exists omg, with a complete engine flush what harm can you do from switching to synthetic to regular or the other way around, as long as the flush is done thoroughly it should be fine no?
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