Catalyst 13.6 1/4
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 26,407
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 
i think it was "drilled and installed properly" considering the same guy built his own 550whp hatch and the integra type r that was on the front cover of sport compact car for the ultimate street car challenge, not to mention my car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 26,407
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 niether the hatch not the integra, another guy, that im good friends with, whats is whos name the interga or the shop owner. integra guy is derrick, and the owner of shop is tim, my name is kevin, and the block guard that warped the cylinders belongs to a kid named josh.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/fe...2scc_uscc2_05/
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/fe...2scc_uscc2_05/
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Rep Power: 0 Never met deric. But if your friend drove 3 hours to get the block guard improperly installed, I feel bad for him. Block guard proper drilled and installed will have coolant passage, which is then impossible to overheat.
I would guess deric is a new comer since i have never met him. And for his type R, Darton is good, only if he got the new version of their block guard. Darton didn't make street block guards until recently. No proper coolant passage = 0 street use.
FYI: Honda's open deck is good for 12-15 psi with 80% thermal eff. A good block guard is good for 24 psi and 65% thermal eff. A block guard without proper routings drilled is good for 24-27 psi with 20% thermal eff. A block guard closed is good for 27-30 psi with 5% thermal eff (hense good for drag queens, less than 12 sec runs)
Here is some info on cylinder wall support and re-sleeving
Two common iron ductile re-sleeving manufacturers are Darton and Golden Eagle:
Golden Eagle:
Golden Eagle Website
The CNC alignment prep is the important step to ensure precise clearances and fitment prior to the pressed-in installation of the sleeves. The supporting "tangs" are placed midway up the cylinder for buttressing, since cylinder wall failure usually begins in the middle and walks its way up to the top, unlike popular belief which states that the top of the cylinder needs the most support. The Golden Eagle sleeves allow coolant flow to travel up to the cylinder head and back to the radiator like stock . Therefore, unlike common cylinder re-inforcement (like the Nuformz blockguard , JG welded in spacer) which completely closes the deck and prevents coolant flow to the head, these sleeves do not have overheating or head gasket failures. The area near the combustion chamber is thicker to support at least 40 psi. However I do not believe Vince at GE would recommend overboring to the maximum 87mm for forced induced applications.
Darton:
Darton Website
Darton is THE standard iron ductile sleeve manufacturer for Hondas. The deck, however, is completely closed off (temperature) and therefore, these sleeves are better for trailer queen drag racing Integras which work for 9-10 sec. only. Darton now has coolant ducts within their Honda sleeves.
Leitner & Bush (Canada):
Notice L&B's innovative approach similar to Darton's in which coolant ducts are added to the sleeve.
Here is another way to re-enforce the cylinders and still have good thermal dissapation.
Posting Cylinders:
The Old One
Instead of using a blockguard or resleeving, some companies place a horizontal rod midway up each cylinder in the open deck space to buttress support the cylinders (8 posts on the intake side, and 4 on the exhaust). This is usually used in normally aspirated B18's with up to 85 mm bores. Again, the coolant is allowed to flow up to the head and back to the radiator at the same rate as stock.
Posted Cylinders by Endyn. Note the rods supporting the cylinder to the outer block wall place midway down the cylinder.
I would guess deric is a new comer since i have never met him. And for his type R, Darton is good, only if he got the new version of their block guard. Darton didn't make street block guards until recently. No proper coolant passage = 0 street use.
FYI: Honda's open deck is good for 12-15 psi with 80% thermal eff. A good block guard is good for 24 psi and 65% thermal eff. A block guard without proper routings drilled is good for 24-27 psi with 20% thermal eff. A block guard closed is good for 27-30 psi with 5% thermal eff (hense good for drag queens, less than 12 sec runs)
Here is some info on cylinder wall support and re-sleeving
Two common iron ductile re-sleeving manufacturers are Darton and Golden Eagle:
Golden Eagle:
Golden Eagle Website
The CNC alignment prep is the important step to ensure precise clearances and fitment prior to the pressed-in installation of the sleeves. The supporting "tangs" are placed midway up the cylinder for buttressing, since cylinder wall failure usually begins in the middle and walks its way up to the top, unlike popular belief which states that the top of the cylinder needs the most support. The Golden Eagle sleeves allow coolant flow to travel up to the cylinder head and back to the radiator like stock . Therefore, unlike common cylinder re-inforcement (like the Nuformz blockguard , JG welded in spacer) which completely closes the deck and prevents coolant flow to the head, these sleeves do not have overheating or head gasket failures. The area near the combustion chamber is thicker to support at least 40 psi. However I do not believe Vince at GE would recommend overboring to the maximum 87mm for forced induced applications.
Darton:
Darton Website
Darton is THE standard iron ductile sleeve manufacturer for Hondas. The deck, however, is completely closed off (temperature) and therefore, these sleeves are better for trailer queen drag racing Integras which work for 9-10 sec. only. Darton now has coolant ducts within their Honda sleeves.
Leitner & Bush (Canada):
Notice L&B's innovative approach similar to Darton's in which coolant ducts are added to the sleeve.
Here is another way to re-enforce the cylinders and still have good thermal dissapation.
Posting Cylinders:
The Old One
Instead of using a blockguard or resleeving, some companies place a horizontal rod midway up each cylinder in the open deck space to buttress support the cylinders (8 posts on the intake side, and 4 on the exhaust). This is usually used in normally aspirated B18's with up to 85 mm bores. Again, the coolant is allowed to flow up to the head and back to the radiator at the same rate as stock.
Posted Cylinders by Endyn. Note the rods supporting the cylinder to the outer block wall place midway down the cylinder.
How To Post Cylinders by Larry Widmer at Endyn
It requires (using 12 ) aluminum rods (of the same alloy , cast 356, and heat treated as the block). The rod must be threaded. After calculating the points of maximum side force on both the primary and secondary thrust axis of the block (intake and exhaust sides, respectively), holes must be drilled through the block and threaded. We place two posts on the primary axis and one on the secondary axis to properly handle the loads (Intake side: 1.375" and 2.75". Exhaust side: 2.0")
The threaded rod should be cut into .625" lengths, with one end machined "dead flat" and the other slotted for a screw driver.
We sell the machined posts for somewhere around $36.00 per set of 12.
We (hand) tighten the "posts" to (no more than) 2 inch pounds (of torque) against the cylinders and we use Devcon liquid aluminum (not the aluminum putty) on the threads to seal them water-tight. If you weld them to the outer block the heat will affect the preload, distorting the cylinder.
re: why 8 posts on the intake side and only 4 on the exhaust side?
The intake side is the major thrust axis, so the piston is really trying to shove itself through that wall when you're really cookin'. There's no reason not to put more posts in the exhaust side...
...I recommend doing the procedure prior to any cylinder machine work taking place...
It requires (using 12 ) aluminum rods (of the same alloy , cast 356, and heat treated as the block). The rod must be threaded. After calculating the points of maximum side force on both the primary and secondary thrust axis of the block (intake and exhaust sides, respectively), holes must be drilled through the block and threaded. We place two posts on the primary axis and one on the secondary axis to properly handle the loads (Intake side: 1.375" and 2.75". Exhaust side: 2.0")
The threaded rod should be cut into .625" lengths, with one end machined "dead flat" and the other slotted for a screw driver.
We sell the machined posts for somewhere around $36.00 per set of 12.
We (hand) tighten the "posts" to (no more than) 2 inch pounds (of torque) against the cylinders and we use Devcon liquid aluminum (not the aluminum putty) on the threads to seal them water-tight. If you weld them to the outer block the heat will affect the preload, distorting the cylinder.
re: why 8 posts on the intake side and only 4 on the exhaust side?
The intake side is the major thrust axis, so the piston is really trying to shove itself through that wall when you're really cookin'. There's no reason not to put more posts in the exhaust side...
...I recommend doing the procedure prior to any cylinder machine work taking place...
Retired - SoCal FI Mod
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,139
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From: Boston, MA
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Civic Type S
anyone familar with the turbo xs rfl bov, I know the hks super sequential bov, is the rfl that much louder, which one do you recomend?
ANYONE
anyone familar with the turbo xs rfl bov, I know the hks super sequential bov, is the rfl that much louder, which one do you recomend?
ANYONE
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 110
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 0 Hey catalyst so when are hitting up LACR again??? When you do just hit me up with an email or PM me. My bro and I want to see your car run. Well I am sure that everyone here wants to see it run.
Retired - SoCal FI Mod
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From: Boston, MA
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by eddie5spdx
Hey catalyst so when are hitting up LACR again??? When you do just hit me up with an email or PM me. My bro and I want to see your car run. Well I am sure that everyone here wants to see it run.
Hey catalyst so when are hitting up LACR again??? When you do just hit me up with an email or PM me. My bro and I want to see your car run. Well I am sure that everyone here wants to see it run.
imp: 
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 312 eddie, i forgot you lived out here. Ill post when im gonna go. Im gonna go as an NA car here soon (damnit), so im gonna be a slow guy 
(not making fun of you NA guys out there). But i will hopefully have my kit sometime within the next 2 weeks. So i will be going after i mess with it a little
(not making fun of you NA guys out there). But i will hopefully have my kit sometime within the next 2 weeks. So i will be going after i mess with it a little 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,857
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 wenlyone, read a lil more carefully bro. He's putting on the new kit in a couple weeks, he just finished the porting job on the head
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From: Secane, PA (3 miles outside Philly)
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by MadWheel
wenlyone, read a lil more carefully bro. He's putting on the new kit in a couple weeks, he just finished the porting job on the head
wenlyone, read a lil more carefully bro. He's putting on the new kit in a couple weeks, he just finished the porting job on the head
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 no not completely different. I'm assuming they slightly modified it again. I would just wait for Catalyst to post up, he know's more of his system than I do.
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 312 Right now i am using a temporary turbo system. It is the new design of the regular manifold (yes, we redesigned it again) and the normal base kit piping and intercooler. The only mod i have to it right now is the RFL bov.
My new system will consist of piping more like Boosted2k2's (just because i like that style), and a bigger intercooler. I also have a stainless equal length manifold (new design, of course). The base intercoolers are 19x7x3, and my new one is 31x9x3, so it is a little bigger (i wanter it to fill my entire front bumper).
Pretty much all of my changes are for aesthetic reasons, nothing majorly performance. Although, it will perform nicely with my new head.
My new system will consist of piping more like Boosted2k2's (just because i like that style), and a bigger intercooler. I also have a stainless equal length manifold (new design, of course). The base intercoolers are 19x7x3, and my new one is 31x9x3, so it is a little bigger
(i wanter it to fill my entire front bumper).Pretty much all of my changes are for aesthetic reasons, nothing majorly performance. Although, it will perform nicely with my new head.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,823
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From: Bay Area, CA
Rep Power: 401 Originally posted by e_mcdiddy
granted 13.6 is fast, but it's really sad that you're surprised that the 7th gen civic can go that fast. That means you know your car is slow....interesting.
granted 13.6 is fast, but it's really sad that you're surprised that the 7th gen civic can go that fast. That means you know your car is slow....interesting.
whats so interesting about it? its a ECONOMY car not a race car. so when you have only that to work with, yes getting a 7th gen civic into mid 13's WAS surprising but now more and more members are breaking into 13's so its becoming more common. Last edited by EnProceso; Dec 6, 2003 at 04:37 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Hey Mike
Sorry guys, this has absolutely nothing to do with civics. I'm in germany getting ready to deploy to iraq with the 1st Infantry division and wanted to get a message to mike(catalyst). Although just so that this post isn't a complete waste of time i'll just throw some cool trivia in here for all you go fast civic owners back in the states. If you want to drive fast, germany's the place to do it. You can go as fast as you want to on the autobahn up to and beyond 150mph but don't do anything stupid like driving under the influence or drive recklessly because you CANNOT outrun the police here. An autobahn police interceptor has a BMW twin-turbocharged v-12 in it and is easily capable on exceeding 200mph. So if you feel like going fast, go to germany but be careful.
hey mike, sorry about that little speal but i figured these guys might find that interesting. I found out that i will probably be coming back to the states in august on my mid-tour leave for 3 weeks or so. I'm trying right now to find a dealer in germany to see if i can get an 04 civic type r to bring back with me or maybe a wrx sti type V. Hopefully the exchange rate will drop while i'm in iraq cuz right now it sucks. it's like .79 euro for every american dollar. thats like 25 american dollars for every 20 euro's. I shouldn't have any trouble affording a car when i get back because i'll be making a little over $3000 a month for the 12 months that i'm there. Right now i'm still trying to get issued all my weapons and dcu's and body armor and still get all my normal in-processing done. It's pretty ****ing boreing during the day because all we do is sit in a classroom and listen to briefings all day long. i should be done with all that about mid-january and be able to start packing up all my gear and get re qualified on my m-16 and beretta 9mm though and then start getting all the vehicles ready to ship. It should be a tireing and busy month and a half. we will be deploying some time in february so everything has to be ready by the end of january. I think me and my buddy cobb might go to berlin for new years but i'll try and call and talk to you before then. well i have to go. e-mail me sometime so i can get your e-mail address(i forgot it ) my address is eric.brown24@us.army.mil later
hey mike, sorry about that little speal but i figured these guys might find that interesting. I found out that i will probably be coming back to the states in august on my mid-tour leave for 3 weeks or so. I'm trying right now to find a dealer in germany to see if i can get an 04 civic type r to bring back with me or maybe a wrx sti type V. Hopefully the exchange rate will drop while i'm in iraq cuz right now it sucks. it's like .79 euro for every american dollar. thats like 25 american dollars for every 20 euro's. I shouldn't have any trouble affording a car when i get back because i'll be making a little over $3000 a month for the 12 months that i'm there. Right now i'm still trying to get issued all my weapons and dcu's and body armor and still get all my normal in-processing done. It's pretty ****ing boreing during the day because all we do is sit in a classroom and listen to briefings all day long. i should be done with all that about mid-january and be able to start packing up all my gear and get re qualified on my m-16 and beretta 9mm though and then start getting all the vehicles ready to ship. It should be a tireing and busy month and a half. we will be deploying some time in february so everything has to be ready by the end of january. I think me and my buddy cobb might go to berlin for new years but i'll try and call and talk to you before then. well i have to go. e-mail me sometime so i can get your e-mail address(i forgot it
) my address is eric.brown24@us.army.mil later Registered!!
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 312 damn eric, you suck. How can you forget my email address? I have only known you for how many years now? 
Ill email ya later.
Keep checking up on this board, you will find some new and interesting things here soon.
Ill email ya later.
Keep checking up on this board, you will find some new and interesting things here soon.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,867
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From: Diamond Bar, CA
Rep Power: 359 Re: Hey Mike
Originally posted by Bextreme
I shouldn't have any trouble affording a car when i get back because i'll be making a little over $3000 a month for the 12 months that i'm there. Right now i'm still trying to get issued all my weapons and dcu's and body armor and still get all my normal in-processing done. It's pretty ****ing boreing during the day because all we do is sit in a classroom and listen to briefings all day long. i should be done with all that about mid-january and be able to start packing up all my gear and get re qualified on my m-16 and beretta 9mm though and then start getting all the vehicles ready to ship. It should be a tireing and busy month and a half. we will be deploying some time in february so everything has to be ready by the end of january. I think me and my buddy cobb might go to berlin for new years but i'll try and call and talk to you before then. well i have to go. e-mail me sometime so i can get your e-mail address(i forgot it ) my address is eric.brown24@us.army.mil later
I shouldn't have any trouble affording a car when i get back because i'll be making a little over $3000 a month for the 12 months that i'm there. Right now i'm still trying to get issued all my weapons and dcu's and body armor and still get all my normal in-processing done. It's pretty ****ing boreing during the day because all we do is sit in a classroom and listen to briefings all day long. i should be done with all that about mid-january and be able to start packing up all my gear and get re qualified on my m-16 and beretta 9mm though and then start getting all the vehicles ready to ship. It should be a tireing and busy month and a half. we will be deploying some time in february so everything has to be ready by the end of january. I think me and my buddy cobb might go to berlin for new years but i'll try and call and talk to you before then. well i have to go. e-mail me sometime so i can get your e-mail address(i forgot it
) my address is eric.brown24@us.army.mil later 
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Chicago, Illinois
Rep Power: 0 i wanted to buy a turbo kit for my 2001 civic lx, but im concerned about reliability issues. is it really ok to run 9psi daily on stock internals? if i wanted to make sure it kept its reliability what exactly would i need to replace? im planning on hopefully running 8-10 psi daily, and prolly 12-14 at the track. oh and do u have/need ported heads to run 13's?
Last edited by ricergribbs; Dec 25, 2003 at 08:30 PM.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Originally posted by ricergribbs
i wanted to buy a turbo kit for my 2001 civic lx, but im concerned about reliability issues. is it really ok to run 9psi daily on stock internals? if i wanted to make sure it kept its reliability what exactly would i need to replace? im planning on hopefully running 8-10 psi daily, and prolly 12-14 at the track. oh and do u have/need ported heads to run 13's?
i wanted to buy a turbo kit for my 2001 civic lx, but im concerned about reliability issues. is it really ok to run 9psi daily on stock internals? if i wanted to make sure it kept its reliability what exactly would i need to replace? im planning on hopefully running 8-10 psi daily, and prolly 12-14 at the track. oh and do u have/need ported heads to run 13's?
. 
