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Half shafts:

While at the dealer in '19 I was told that one of the inner CV boots was torn so I had them install a new pair while it was down. Like the clutch assembly and all the other parts they used for my job these were not genuine parts here either...Surprise.

Instead they installed cheap chinese silicone boots. I found that the small boot strap had actually through this one so there was no chance these were not going to be replaced.

Genuine Honda inner CV boot kit this time. Joint thoroughly cleaned of all the black grease and checked for any wear. I mocked them up dry to check for any play or slop but both sides turned out to be in excellent shape with no detectable play. I was looking at the R-axles site for possible replacements but there is just no need for it at this point.

Joint and cup packed in the Honey mustard grease supplied with the OEM boots and ready for reassembly.

Had to order this specialty strap installer.

Never get the straps tight enough without it.

Inner CV boot installation complete. After confirming the condition of the axles I ordered the outer boot kit for later.

Poked and prodded but the original outer boots are still intact. I'll keep an eye on them and will have the new kits on hand when the day comes.

The only other issue I had was that wider right side vibrational dampener had broken. The internal rubber spokes that attached the metal ring had given up. I was able to get my hands on pair of NOS dampeners. Check out the vintage blue labeling.

Since only one side was broken I decided I'd try and repair this dampener before the new boot went on. I super glued the spokes back into position on the ring and let sit overnight. Then I packed the both sides of the cavity with RTV to both support the spokes and bond the unit together further. The other unbroken dampener was packed with RTV the same way as a precaution. Don't know whether it will work or not but I have the new ones on hand if it doesn't

Repairs complete and ready for reinstallation. Onto the next deal. Thanks for looking.

 
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More parts:

Original over flow tank cap has rotted but am replacing the entire unit. Keeping the original Power steering tank but installing a new scavenger tube.

Then onto the distributor. I bought everything new OEM that I could. Cap, seals, lower inner cover but I could not get the rotor! Weird!

That rotor is the original one so I couldn't put it back in there. Bought one from a trusted name in performance ignition instead.

As along as the ignitor module is good this unit is ready to go.

All my Honda fluids came in. Using a different motor oil for the break in though.

Unpackaging the new motor mount set.

The unit on the right was dealer installed. Its not broken but based on all the other parts they've installed I'm feeling better about an OEM unit this time around.

Thanks for looking.

 
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Getting closer to reinstallation time:

All the remaining accessory parts installed including the lower stuff like the intermediate shaft, bell housing cross braces, and the fly wheel cover.

All the belts (A/C staged) and my "New" power steering pump installed.

My parts pile was getting down to just a few items by this point. It was really going well until I started torquing the exhaust manifold bolts to spec (33Ft. pounds)

I got to this bolt and it snapped on me. I was so relieved to find that the shank had not broken off level in the head. One too many heat cycles through all of those old bolts so I went ahead and ordered all new hardware for the manifold.

Another issue: The crank sensor lead seemed to be too unsecure below the band at the water pump. After looking through the parts schematic there is supposed to be an anchor that secures it at the connection plug. It never made it back on through one its past service repairs. I was going to add it to my hardware order but it too is no longer available. Frustrating part of repairing old cars...

I kept going back and fourth whether just to leave it as is or not but eventually decided fatigue would eventually become an issue. Between engine and road vibration combined with airflow; there was a reason the factory secured it at the plug. I had no idea what it looked like so I based a paper templated on function. I used the mount up by the distributor as a model for the tang. Using a section of thicker 16 gauge to ensure it holds the needed shape.

Basic part with a more final shaping and filing to go.

Final needed mount. Small little bracket but it can easily eat up an evening before you have what your looking for.

Plug now anchored like it should be. I feel much better about this now.

Onto the next deal. Waiting on my new bolts...

Thanks for looking.

 
Rep Power: 221

Good work, manifold bolts are always a good idea to replace

 
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Thanks Colin. Yes, another lesson learned.

One more parts order. Other than bolts I ordered a few other items I thought I should get while I still can.

New manifold bolts and nuts. I was also short one distributor bolt as it was replaced with stand in some time ago.

The motor and all the related parts have been teed up for over a week now.

Exhaust hardware was the last missing piece.

Manifold installed with all new hardware and capped off with the heat shield. Now its ready to go.

Going back into the car before Friday...Hopefully.

Thanks for looking.

 
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Got the drivetrain back with the car and under one roof last Friday.

Onto the lowering the car over the motor.

Finally had it slipped in there. Got a little ahead of myself and had to remove a few parts I had pre-fit to give us the needed clearance as it went in. Lateral mounts where loosely installed so I could unstrap it from the dolly next.

All motor mounts in. Especially that rear one... That was a total PIA.

Then onto routing all the lines and adding in the components.

By Saturday evening it was all but buttoned up and was ready to begin priming the oil pump.

Unplugged the injectors and the distributor and cranked the engine over several times to get the oil coursing through.

Then it was time to see if was going to start. Hooked everything up and I even heard the fuel pump kick on...so much for my initial diagnosis. She fired right up almost immediately and purred like a kitten. It was bitter sweet because it was soon becoming evident that my original issue wasn't the fuel pump like I thought nor was it a timing belt as the dealership diagnosed. It turns out it was as simple as a rotor and cap in the end!!! This was one hell of a learning experience all the way around; I learned not to be so lazy and to rely more on myself to fix this car and also not to just blindly trust what the Experts at the dealership tell me. I of course had a few small wrinkles to iron out but as I chased those down each short test drive around the block was building my confidence in this overhaul. At the very least I've got fresh drivetrain in this old girl.

Thanks for looking.

 
Rep Power: 221

It's pretty rare for the fuel pumps to fail on these cars. At least it runs again

 
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Good to know Colin Thanks. I come the GM world where a fuel pump would be normally have been replaced by now.

Here's a few detail shots of something else besides the engine bay:

A few shots of the interior to show how well original upholstery can hold up after 300K if some care is taken.

New shift **** made for a really nice finish. Glad I bought it.

Original leather on the wheel is still intact but I would step up for an NOS one unit if I run across one.

Seat bolsters show some fatigue of course but no ripped seams or tears in the cloth.

Care also taken with the center arm rest covering.

The headliner is in excellent condition but my sunshade had a wire frame that ate into the edge of the visor. Brain faded on that one.

The last blemish is on the slider panel. My hair eventually wore a hole in the fabric from all those years of bristling across it.

That bugged me so I bought a new slider panel from the dealer about 6 years ago.

and a new pair of visors so all these issues I have an answer for.

 
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100 miles on my beak in and so far so good. Had a few minor coolant leaks but eliminated those along with a few other kinks as its gone.

Rings seem to be seating just fine with no smoking. My plates expired a month ago so my first trip was over to get it smog checked. Passed with no issues.

First test drives where just around the block.

but I'm heading out further and further as my trust and confidence builds.

So glad to have it running once again.
Thanks for looking through all of this!

 
Rep Power: 221

You did a fantastic job, well done

 
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Yes, great work. Incredible to see such a well taken care of EM1.

 
Rep Power: 366

great job!

 
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Good work!

 
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Thanks a lot for the great replies you guys! I was on the learning curve with it for sure. I had a list of about small 6 issues that I needed to chase as this break in went including a new battery as the old one was no longer holding a charge. Then my basically new tires up front began ply separating so now I'm in need of a new set of tires. The car has been down for five months and it remains true that the car gods will make you pay if it sits too long and that law of physics about an object at rest tending to want to remain at rest certainly applies. The last major issue on my short list was no power steering. My power steering pump rebuild turned out to be a bust. While it all fit inside the original housing fine I failed to notice that all the internal veining on the back cover and the pump unit itself was made to spin in the opposite direction. Once I fired it up I had no power assist. I pulled it back off and reassembled the housing with its original internals and back cover; with new seals and bearing of course. Its working fine now with no leaking. Time will tell how long that worn shaft bushing will take to make itself known but for now all is good. I just need to get past this rebuild at this point. Thanks again for all the helpful and encouraging responses.

 
Rep Power: 366

if new tires, you can return them