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-valves/seals/retainers/springs (all look good)
-pulled the header to see if I ported through an oil gallery (looked good, thank goodness).
-I'll check plugs soon
-and the pcv system
-I'm not sure because the sound is deeper now but it may be reving at a higher rate now with the port job; this may be leading to over an over pressured crankcase and oil being pushed past the valve seals or up through the pcv into the intake.
At this point I'm just gina say F it and top her up when needed, I'm also thinking of trying
Well long story short a fdew months ago my timing belt snapped, due to the water pump leaking on the belt, which was my fault because I left the pump with 3 put of 4 bolts, since one snapped.
Anyway, head is back off, thank goodness everything looks fine, probably because I was running low compression pistons which didn't smash the valves.
I just put the pistons back in, and found out why it was burning so much, some how two of the pistons had rings cloaked at the wrist pins. I also replaced the front main seal, the water pump again, this time OEM, the belt, oem and tensioner oem.
In fun news I'm also designing an intake manifold for boost, and j30 throttle body application.
...well after like three months the engine is rebuilt again... this time I clocked my pistons right (I hope) and removed/replaced the broken water pump bolt which lead to the timing belt braking.
As you can also see I built my own intake manifold ended up costing me $1100, mostly tool cost like welding gear, saws and clamps; as well as the water cutting fee to cut the plates I designed and 3d modeled. I tried to weld the final piece on my own but ended up warping the hell out of it and it looked like ****, so for the final version I spot welded it together and payed a shop to weld/seal it up.
Looks friggen epic IMO!
.................
At the moment I just started her today for the first time with this manifold. I have a crazy high idle surge from 1100 to 3000 up and down rhythmically , pretty fast. With the IACV unplugged (Idle air control valve) it will idle with a fast lope at 1000rpm. So naturally I thought it was a faulty IACV from the j30 throttle body...
But I unplugged the j30 IACV and then plugged in my stock d17 IACV (not installed into the j30 TB, just in the open because I wanted to see if it was moving open and closed) and the idle still surges but the D17 IACV does not actuate and since it is not connected to the j30 tb on the vehicle it can not cause the surging.
The only two things I have connected that could dump more air into the system are the IACV and supper noob question here, but the electric component that comes from the fire wall to the fuel rail then into a cylinder, then into an electrical control valve and finally to the intake manifold. What is that thing? I am having problems trying to find a diagram of the way it is installed stock and what it is called, in order to research the issue.
Haha figured it out. It was actually a massive vacuum leak because there was a vacuum port left open on the underside of the j30 TB that I forgot about because I ran all of my stock vacuum lines to the manifold. Took me like 45 minutes to find it as I slowly puffed a cigar and blew it into the manifold.
Intercooler is in, j30 throttle body now working with custom intake manifold, gauge cluster installed, air fuel and boost gauges and sensors installed (well I still need to wire the third party rsx-s air fuel sensor, that's why that wire is hanging out), rsx-s fuel pump, oil catch can, remote exhaust cutout installed, because rice =D.
Still need to install
-injectors
-plugs
-SC mount
-sc14 supercharger
-supercharger oil cooler
-aem FIC (...stupid emenage is in the trash now)
Also, as you can see I smashed the front end, trying to park the car on a farm, at a house party... lol. One day she'll look pretty, but boost first.
Currant mod list 2019:
Suspension:
energy bushings
raceland coils
dc camber kit
progress sway bar
custom 2 inch spacers all round
new mounts
dc strut bar
front sway delete
fenders cut 4-5" all round, lowerd 3-4" all round
Engine:
crower stage 1 cam
1/4" radius port and polished head
custom intake manifold
j30 throttle body
k1 rods
wiseco pistons 8.8:1
aem cam gear
new bearings and seals
new timing belt/waterpump OEM honda
Arp head studs
...well I now know why people buy, pre built, third party wideband Air Fuel sensors. Lol.
Since my car's a 2002 with narrow band A/F, I tried to save money by buying an rsx wide band, and gauge, then wire it separately and placing it in it's own exhaust bung. (So stock AF is still active).
I didn't know that the ecu needs to monitor the heator circuit and fluctuate its voltage to maintain a steady temperature.
.........
Long story short, after a month trying to pinout everything and clone the ecu signals, I ended up buying an AEM 30-0300 wideband (which has a built in control unit).
...omg! Friggen two weeks later, finally understand how to set up the FIC on board MAP sensor.
All the posts I saw for hondas were using the OEM MAP (or an upgraded MAP in OEM position), run as a MAF using voltage mapping.
Tried scaling the FIC MAP output to the OEM MAP, in 2bar and 3Bar... turns out the OEM MAP is 1.7bar. Hahaha, so I had to manually scale the voltages per psiA in between 1bar and 2bar.
