sdaidoji's 'vics stories
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hahaha...
since i got some hail today (just a few dings and dents, nothing too bad) follow the last pics before it happened
still rocking my steelies
and a rock that created a crack that is growing in the windshield. I might do the drill method soon (had completely forgotten to do it untilo a friend told me today...
since i got some hail today (just a few dings and dents, nothing too bad) follow the last pics before it happened
still rocking my steelies
and a rock that created a crack that is growing in the windshield. I might do the drill method soon (had completely forgotten to do it untilo a friend told me today...
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thanks, tom.
my car still got the lucky, north and east, there were a few tornadoes that hit ground, so a few hail is not bad.
my car still got the lucky, north and east, there were a few tornadoes that hit ground, so a few hail is not bad.
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Any place you never lived in, max?
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found some older pictures, so here they go
older headlights, at nashville superspeedway, a few years ago during a track day
No, the red truck is NOT running the track!!! :P
one picture i had forgotten, from the autoX, with the current amzo headlights prior to installing the amber light bulbs:
nother one:
oh, yeah, that thing hanging from the rear view mirror? they are called G-meter to me :P
just to remember me of my canadian experiences:
older headlights, at nashville superspeedway, a few years ago during a track day
No, the red truck is NOT running the track!!! :P
one picture i had forgotten, from the autoX, with the current amzo headlights prior to installing the amber light bulbs:
nother one:
oh, yeah, that thing hanging from the rear view mirror? they are called G-meter to me :P
just to remember me of my canadian experiences:
Last edited by sdaidoji; 11-25-2012 at 04:49 PM.
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Ah, these were the old RE01's - still have 2 of them with some meat left.
that's after the event
the two left are over the RE760's here (yeh will also notice the old muffler and the cracked LCA in there
some small camber wear, but compensated by cornering like a man :P
that's after the event
the two left are over the RE760's here (yeh will also notice the old muffler and the cracked LCA in there
some small camber wear, but compensated by cornering like a man :P
Last edited by sdaidoji; 01-15-2013 at 09:48 PM.
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wacko weather... just below freezing temps, but we had freezing rain here in TN... WTF?!?
thought i would be safe this down south... no snow fell, but all frozen shut... even the hood...
^ oh, yeah, you can also notice the crack in the rear bumper right at the corner under the rear lights, one thing i never bothered to fix... it's not in the direction of hits anyway
^ musta been that darned Quebec license in the bottom left of the windshield . those with good eyes can find the crack in the windshield too
I'mma gonna call that the newest form of clear coating for the winter - no rocks will chip the paint, it will chip the ice! LOL!
thought i would be safe this down south... no snow fell, but all frozen shut... even the hood...
^ oh, yeah, you can also notice the crack in the rear bumper right at the corner under the rear lights, one thing i never bothered to fix... it's not in the direction of hits anyway
^ musta been that darned Quebec license in the bottom left of the windshield . those with good eyes can find the crack in the windshield too
I'mma gonna call that the newest form of clear coating for the winter - no rocks will chip the paint, it will chip the ice! LOL!
Last edited by sdaidoji; 01-15-2013 at 09:42 PM.
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and finally goes my full stable in here
oh, yeah, ignore all the mess in the garage... I still have not finished installing the clutch/control arms/springs in the newer miata, and after that the vic is going in for the wheel bearing and *maybe* the clutch, we will see.
crap, the crack in the windshield increased today after all this cold weather...
oh, well, there was no choice, it was drive the non-ABS RWD miata equipped with the dunlop star specs (very poor on icy conditions) or take the vic out even with the cracked windshield and the wheel bearing out. traffic was a mess anyway, no one was driving anywhere above 3rd gear
Funny, I always go to say to do maintenance, but i have 3 cars, one running, another not so well, and another still to finish, but have parts for all the fixes
swallow my own words, yeh lazy!
either way, 95 will go out tomorrow again, vic is not that well to do that...
oh, yeah, ignore all the mess in the garage... I still have not finished installing the clutch/control arms/springs in the newer miata, and after that the vic is going in for the wheel bearing and *maybe* the clutch, we will see.
crap, the crack in the windshield increased today after all this cold weather...
oh, well, there was no choice, it was drive the non-ABS RWD miata equipped with the dunlop star specs (very poor on icy conditions) or take the vic out even with the cracked windshield and the wheel bearing out. traffic was a mess anyway, no one was driving anywhere above 3rd gear
Funny, I always go to say to do maintenance, but i have 3 cars, one running, another not so well, and another still to finish, but have parts for all the fixes
swallow my own words, yeh lazy!
either way, 95 will go out tomorrow again, vic is not that well to do that...
Last edited by sdaidoji; 01-15-2013 at 09:45 PM.
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funny, i found some more pics of the oldee 01 green auto sedan.
this is driving from TN to NC to TN some years ago (10 :P) smokey mountains are really pretty
this is driving from TN to NC to TN some years ago (10 :P) smokey mountains are really pretty
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have been a while... mostly small stuff that need fixing, additional dents in the body (Hail, and a big rock on the hood... but did a change today - Downside was that found a tie-rod that need replacing...
Finally got a chance to pull the other car out (needing hood hinges... Fender is being a pain to remove to get to them...) and put the civic on the bay.
Had it since Thanksgiving, but had not finished the other car, so was in the backburner. (Hey, it was almost half price at THmortorsports, why not?
Just 7 bolts, but don't forget that the exhaust bolts are usually a pain, rusted to kingdom come... PB Blast!!!
The OE piece is really pretty good, I see, but the DC sports have a few things that seem better. Not just slightly bigger piping, but where all tubes conjoin is much better designed for flow. And the lower bolts have threads, so easier to put together. However, it's easier to do them from under the car.
OE with heat shield
OE without heat shield:
After - DC sports header
Side-by-side
LOL, yeah, they have different center of gravity
This is OE, where tubes conjoin
This is DC sports
Just for the fun, the O2 sensor
.
Finally got a chance to pull the other car out (needing hood hinges... Fender is being a pain to remove to get to them...) and put the civic on the bay.
Had it since Thanksgiving, but had not finished the other car, so was in the backburner. (Hey, it was almost half price at THmortorsports, why not?
Just 7 bolts, but don't forget that the exhaust bolts are usually a pain, rusted to kingdom come... PB Blast!!!
The OE piece is really pretty good, I see, but the DC sports have a few things that seem better. Not just slightly bigger piping, but where all tubes conjoin is much better designed for flow. And the lower bolts have threads, so easier to put together. However, it's easier to do them from under the car.
OE with heat shield
OE without heat shield:
After - DC sports header
Side-by-side
LOL, yeah, they have different center of gravity
This is OE, where tubes conjoin
This is DC sports
Just for the fun, the O2 sensor
.
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Tie rod: Done!
went easier than thought... the goners were the cup and the ball, they separated... So no spinning nut, and it came out easy with the right removal tool. All in all, 15 -20 minute job.
Nice Moog piece, with greasing zerks
Offending piece - remove cotter pin, remove the bottom nut. Loosen the locking nut (they have opposing threads - check which direction to turn, depending on side, before trying to turn that nut!!!) and then proceed to pull the darned end using a proper tool or a good placed BFH wack!
Offending piece: Out!
New Moog part with zerk fitting for greasing: In!
Yes, I know, the year and a half in Canada was NOT nice to the shocks/springs... I will need to shot peen the springs and repaint, the shocks might be approaching its life, so OK.
Darn, was planning on checking the alignment, maybe change the brake rotors/pads (potentially warped) and removing the anti-roll bar for good (no need in MacPherson FWD), but there's a storm brewing close (Miata hood is not secured to stay out of garage in the wind...)
Hopefully the toe is not too off... Forgot to get paint, so used a perm marker, seemed to be on the right thread.
A drive on the 'hood indicates no issues spare slight wheel offset, so... it might be toe out, slightly... Oh, well, hope tires live through tomorrow....
went easier than thought... the goners were the cup and the ball, they separated... So no spinning nut, and it came out easy with the right removal tool. All in all, 15 -20 minute job.
Nice Moog piece, with greasing zerks
Offending piece - remove cotter pin, remove the bottom nut. Loosen the locking nut (they have opposing threads - check which direction to turn, depending on side, before trying to turn that nut!!!) and then proceed to pull the darned end using a proper tool or a good placed BFH wack!
Offending piece: Out!
New Moog part with zerk fitting for greasing: In!
Yes, I know, the year and a half in Canada was NOT nice to the shocks/springs... I will need to shot peen the springs and repaint, the shocks might be approaching its life, so OK.
Darn, was planning on checking the alignment, maybe change the brake rotors/pads (potentially warped) and removing the anti-roll bar for good (no need in MacPherson FWD), but there's a storm brewing close (Miata hood is not secured to stay out of garage in the wind...)
Hopefully the toe is not too off... Forgot to get paint, so used a perm marker, seemed to be on the right thread.
A drive on the 'hood indicates no issues spare slight wheel offset, so... it might be toe out, slightly... Oh, well, hope tires live through tomorrow....
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Additional work:
- Check/replace passenger tie rod end.
- remove front anti roll bar - no need on our cars, just dead weight making the car understeer (running without end links for months now)
- check alignment after tie rod replacement
- grease the tie rod ends
PS: EX exhaust anti roll bar - put closer to the cat, turn one end of the bar to the back, twist and it's off!
Tie rod, passenger - torn boot, but after removal, it was really loose...
Always use the right tool - 40 seconds and it was off!
Alignment rig - love my Flyin' Miata hub stands!
Run around the 'hood indicate no issues, tomorrow will be test
- Check/replace passenger tie rod end.
- remove front anti roll bar - no need on our cars, just dead weight making the car understeer (running without end links for months now)
- check alignment after tie rod replacement
- grease the tie rod ends
PS: EX exhaust anti roll bar - put closer to the cat, turn one end of the bar to the back, twist and it's off!
Tie rod, passenger - torn boot, but after removal, it was really loose...
Always use the right tool - 40 seconds and it was off!
Alignment rig - love my Flyin' Miata hub stands!
Run around the 'hood indicate no issues, tomorrow will be test
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Re: sdaidoji's 'vics stories
Looking good!
That alignment setup looks cool. I have never seen one like that. I might have to consider that once my 5 year alignment is up in a couple years.
That alignment setup looks cool. I have never seen one like that. I might have to consider that once my 5 year alignment is up in a couple years.
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they are great to torque bushings with load on the suspension - especially critical in Miatas with the bushings seizing and keeping the car very high until the bushings give in
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LOL, while talking with Masscivic, I realized I forgot one of the most memorable and laughable events with the civic this January, 22nd.
My civic went into identity crisis... It wanted to be lighter, more nimble with a double wishbone suspension
Here it goes, quoted from the original thread - Yes, it got pimped out into a CRX/Z!!!! LOL!
I have stayed the whole week out, and during that time, the week's icepocalypse happened Wednesday.
Then, when coming back today, I found out somebody had "pimped my ride".
Remember, today is the snowpocalypse in Nashville, TN...
it now have 8/9th gen taillights and a hatch profile...
I had troubles finding the car...
My civic went into identity crisis... It wanted to be lighter, more nimble with a double wishbone suspension
Here it goes, quoted from the original thread - Yes, it got pimped out into a CRX/Z!!!! LOL!
I have stayed the whole week out, and during that time, the week's icepocalypse happened Wednesday.
Then, when coming back today, I found out somebody had "pimped my ride".
Remember, today is the snowpocalypse in Nashville, TN...
it now have 8/9th gen taillights and a hatch profile...
I had troubles finding the car...
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just realized i have not post the mileage I am getting
this is the best ever trip, some 25 miles with HWY (70 MPH), so local (55 MPH) and city (35 MPH) - very short stretch
second best ever - today, so after the header install - it still can do it!
third best ever was the trip back from Canada, hauling all my stuff...
did not have the scan gauge at the time, so it was actual tank vs mileage, at 44 MPG
what i had in the car for my move? well, you would not believe how much stuff fits inside a civic...
this is the best ever trip, some 25 miles with HWY (70 MPH), so local (55 MPH) and city (35 MPH) - very short stretch
second best ever - today, so after the header install - it still can do it!
third best ever was the trip back from Canada, hauling all my stuff...
did not have the scan gauge at the time, so it was actual tank vs mileage, at 44 MPG
what i had in the car for my move? well, you would not believe how much stuff fits inside a civic...
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the CRX conversion... i could not stop laughing about for two days...
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just a matter of: if the traffic is not good, I refuse to use fuel - not gonna do me any good, so i just lift the threttle and let the injection cut the fuel or simply put in neutral and coast A lot is on how you drive it or simply not braking when the car simply can take the corner at higher speeds (Mine front pads are at 45k now...)
the CRX conversion... i could not stop laughing about for two days...
the CRX conversion... i could not stop laughing about for two days...
And I swear.... I'll get to making a ride thread soon!!
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thanks for inspiring me to update mine too
aside from the lone short trips (50 miles), i get overall 34-36 because of the short trips to the convenience store to get beer... engine does not get hot enough to get good mileage... if i drive long trips, i could get a whooping 40 MPG+ on a tank again, i would guess... oh, well, that just how cars work...
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Wasn't sure if it was due to recent temperature, but now it's clear... O2 sensor going bad but not there yet was causing:
1)lower torque
2) worse mpg 33-34, now back to 38-40
1)lower torque
2) worse mpg 33-34, now back to 38-40
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brake refresh - pads and rotors and slider lube.
but hit a snag and had some help
from the DIY tip section:
"The rotors in the 7th gen lasts a long time. Mine were still stock and if one was not warped, they would still be there.
after 1 1/2 year in Canada, they were stuck in place... One side, I had a bearing replaced, so it was removed (they did not put the bolts back, I can understand why).
the other... a pain!
I am referring to these ones that are still left in the rotor. They are simply there to hold them in place during the assembly line to not to fall out.
impact wrench, drill with driver bits, PB blast, heat, nothing could take them out. Also, I had to stop before they stripped.
that's when MAC and ezone told me of the impact driver. No, it's not an impact wrench.
this is not powered, it's manual.
it have bits that are screw drivers (straight, philips) and when you wack on them, they turn.
So, you don't need to push like crazy, the wack pushes the tool against the bolt, so it does not strip as easily.
took me two days wacking the hell out of it...
but victory was mine!!!
The holding bolts will never find its way back to the rotors!!!
thanks, Mac and ezone!
note: there's some of them that are reversible, but there's no manual that comes with them. Be sure it's adjusted to the right direction before you go wacking at it.
I pushed mine against the floor to see which direction it turned."
but hit a snag and had some help
from the DIY tip section:
"The rotors in the 7th gen lasts a long time. Mine were still stock and if one was not warped, they would still be there.
after 1 1/2 year in Canada, they were stuck in place... One side, I had a bearing replaced, so it was removed (they did not put the bolts back, I can understand why).
the other... a pain!
I am referring to these ones that are still left in the rotor. They are simply there to hold them in place during the assembly line to not to fall out.
impact wrench, drill with driver bits, PB blast, heat, nothing could take them out. Also, I had to stop before they stripped.
that's when MAC and ezone told me of the impact driver. No, it's not an impact wrench.
this is not powered, it's manual.
it have bits that are screw drivers (straight, philips) and when you wack on them, they turn.
So, you don't need to push like crazy, the wack pushes the tool against the bolt, so it does not strip as easily.
took me two days wacking the hell out of it...
but victory was mine!!!
The holding bolts will never find its way back to the rotors!!!
thanks, Mac and ezone!
note: there's some of them that are reversible, but there's no manual that comes with them. Be sure it's adjusted to the right direction before you go wacking at it.
I pushed mine against the floor to see which direction it turned."
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after polishing the headlights, followed xriceboyx tip to clear coat them still need to polish the coat, though...
"After polishing my headlights, it always hazed quite fast...
that's when xriceboyx gave the the crucial tip:
after polishing, just clear coat the headlight.
Don't forget to polish the clear coat, or the roughness will make the light scatter too much.
mine have been clear so far for a month, before it would haze back in a week.
pre-polishing the clear coat, so you can notice the roughness
"
"After polishing my headlights, it always hazed quite fast...
that's when xriceboyx gave the the crucial tip:
after polishing, just clear coat the headlight.
Don't forget to polish the clear coat, or the roughness will make the light scatter too much.
mine have been clear so far for a month, before it would haze back in a week.
pre-polishing the clear coat, so you can notice the roughness
"
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Hahaha, that was prior to Halloween, and at the time I was at a friend's place (I am single, she would not let me recover from my surgery alone... good to have great friends )