Plans to make a track civic
Plans to make a track civic
Well as most know I have a Kswap civic with Kpro, Race header, V2 intake, and Skunk 2 3/4 exhuast. My current suspension mods are Tein basic shocks, nuespeed front tower bar, ingals rear camber kit, Eibach front camber kit, H&R rear strut tower bar, Hawk Hp pads, and Enkie RS 7 17" rims. My weight reduction is: the rims are around 11 lbs lighter per rim, stripped trunk, no AC or any associated components, stock battery switched to a dry cell. My plans are to turn this into a great streetable autox/track car, so here are my future mods:
handling/brake upgrades
-ep rear brake swap
-stainless brake lines
-Falken 615 215/40/17 tires
-?????? upgraded shocks
Weight reduction;
-CF hood painted NH black
-CF trunk painted NH black
-CF fenders painted NH black
-swap the sun roof for a moon roof getting rid of the motor etc. with a CF moon roof painted NHB
Power adders:
-IPS cams
-RBC intake manifold
Tranny
-Quaif LSD
-ACT stage II clutch
-ACT prolight flywheel
This should put this car at around 2400 lbs with around 240whp. I think that this shoud be about as good as it gets for an NA 7thgen. Once I get more into tracking the car I shure that race tires and gutted interior will be in store
handling/brake upgrades
-ep rear brake swap
-stainless brake lines
-Falken 615 215/40/17 tires
-?????? upgraded shocks
Weight reduction;
-CF hood painted NH black
-CF trunk painted NH black
-CF fenders painted NH black
-swap the sun roof for a moon roof getting rid of the motor etc. with a CF moon roof painted NHB
Power adders:
-IPS cams
-RBC intake manifold
Tranny
-Quaif LSD
-ACT stage II clutch
-ACT prolight flywheel
This should put this car at around 2400 lbs with around 240whp. I think that this shoud be about as good as it gets for an NA 7thgen. Once I get more into tracking the car I shure that race tires and gutted interior will be in store
Last edited by EMK20a2; Oct 28, 2006 at 11:28 AM.
Just go have fun first. Don't worry too much about what you have or need. Learn to drive what you got.
p.s. I'll have my JIC coilovers for sale when I get back to the states in Dec.
p.s. I'll have my JIC coilovers for sale when I get back to the states in Dec.
Its a celebration bitches!
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you should get smaller rims and better tires. way better shocks for a track car. and don't paint the CF, its just unnecessary weight... are you going to strip the interior? are you going to have a 5 point harness? racing seats?
The tires/rims are just short term to tie me over until I get racing tires/rims (of course I would go with 16"). Right now my tires are shot so I still need somthing for the street. The mods that I am doing this winter are the tires and the brakes. I can't talk the wife into going for street tires, race tires and rims, and brake swap. So I have to do what I have to do. I have autox this car for sometime now so I think all of the mods are justifiable and would work well.
I may get some SI seats and a harness that I can remove after the track. I am painting the CF because at this point I am planning to make a track/street car that is good for both. So with that no right now I am not planning on stripping the interior.
Actually a Quaife is an ATB (Automatic Torque Biasing) differential. It is operated soley with worm gears and does not split the power 50/50 UNLESS you have EQUAL traction on both tires. The Quaife transfers up 81% of the power to the wheel with the MOST TRACTION. It is perfect for road courses as you can power out of turns and even throttle-steer with enough power. A Quaife will add to torque steer, but if you control it, you'll enjoy it.
I have a Quaife in my 600hp Taurus. It is a must if you want to drive performance-wise. This is a $1,200 part for my application and that's just the diff alone. That doesn't include the install kit, and the fact I installed it myself.
http://www.quaifeamerica.com/differentials/diffs.htm
An LSD (Limited Slip Differential) operates with clutch packs and splits the power 50/50 at all times.
I have a Quaife in my 600hp Taurus. It is a must if you want to drive performance-wise. This is a $1,200 part for my application and that's just the diff alone. That doesn't include the install kit, and the fact I installed it myself.
http://www.quaifeamerica.com/differentials/diffs.htm
An LSD (Limited Slip Differential) operates with clutch packs and splits the power 50/50 at all times.
Last edited by yamahaSHO; Oct 29, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
^^^^good info. I knew the quaif was an ATB, I just was under that impression that it fell under the category of an LSD with features that differed from other LSDs (liquid, mechanical, etc.).
it sounds like you have your stuff in order, though. good luck and post some track pics!
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 
Forget all that ****, just learn how to drive the damn car. Best investment you'll ever make in your driving. Anyways, find a rule book and pick a class to prep the car for. With a K, get the rules for Nasa Honda Challenge, read up on H1 rules. Even if you never competitively race the car, its something to go by. Those rules are there to keep the cars on equal ground, and its a good measure of comparison. Those rules are far from the limit, but they're fair, they allow some leeway, put out competitive and (semi)reliable race cars. Its pointless to just throw money and parts at something. Thats not really building a race car, its building a car with a bunch of parts. Half the point of racing is the limit on the car, making the guy driving it do the work.
With a K, get the Type S brakes and MC, you're gonna need those, get a set of Konis, some Ground controls, if you want to get nuts with it, have them custom valved, run something like 375 in the front, 700-900 in the rear, but be careful with that... it'll oversteer if you're not gentile. Forget JDM anything. Everything on a track car is 100% disposable, INCLUDING THE MOTOR. That thing isn't gonna last forever. Definitely don't do anything that raises the redline, K20s do not like getting run behind the stock redline for extended periods of time, they will throw rods, its been tested by teams who do endurance racing, keep it at 8200.
Also, don't moonroof it, just weld the hole shut, but for now just leave it. The car would be a hell of a lot stiffer with a solid roof.
No real sense for carbon fiber anything, especially if you're worried about what it looks like. Tracks are incredibly dirty, all the stuff getting kicked up will trash the paint on your front end. I assure you the 20 lbs you save won't make a difference.
But forget all that for now, go learn how to drive. You'll need to save some money for the repair bills, which I assure you will sky rocket. My general rule is to have 5 times the event entry fee in reserve to fix anything that breaks. Thats typically 1500 bucks laying around in repair reserves. I've never gone that far, but pads and rotors are a frequent purchase, and tires are once a year.... it adds up. If you blow something big, you need to be ready to fix it or have another car.
Watch the SM rules carefully and make sure you don't put yourself into DSP or D-mod. I don't remember all the SM rules but I think if you start going overboard with the motor, especially opening it up, you run yourself into some trouble.
With a K, get the Type S brakes and MC, you're gonna need those, get a set of Konis, some Ground controls, if you want to get nuts with it, have them custom valved, run something like 375 in the front, 700-900 in the rear, but be careful with that... it'll oversteer if you're not gentile. Forget JDM anything. Everything on a track car is 100% disposable, INCLUDING THE MOTOR. That thing isn't gonna last forever. Definitely don't do anything that raises the redline, K20s do not like getting run behind the stock redline for extended periods of time, they will throw rods, its been tested by teams who do endurance racing, keep it at 8200.
Also, don't moonroof it, just weld the hole shut, but for now just leave it. The car would be a hell of a lot stiffer with a solid roof.
No real sense for carbon fiber anything, especially if you're worried about what it looks like. Tracks are incredibly dirty, all the stuff getting kicked up will trash the paint on your front end. I assure you the 20 lbs you save won't make a difference.
But forget all that for now, go learn how to drive. You'll need to save some money for the repair bills, which I assure you will sky rocket. My general rule is to have 5 times the event entry fee in reserve to fix anything that breaks. Thats typically 1500 bucks laying around in repair reserves. I've never gone that far, but pads and rotors are a frequent purchase, and tires are once a year.... it adds up. If you blow something big, you need to be ready to fix it or have another car.
Watch the SM rules carefully and make sure you don't put yourself into DSP or D-mod. I don't remember all the SM rules but I think if you start going overboard with the motor, especially opening it up, you run yourself into some trouble.
Forget all that ****, just learn how to drive the damn car. Best investment you'll ever make in your driving. Anyways, find a rule book and pick a class to prep the car for. With a K, get the rules for Nasa Honda Challenge, read up on H1 rules. Even if you never competitively race the car, its something to go by. Those rules are there to keep the cars on equal ground, and its a good measure of comparison. Those rules are far from the limit, but they're fair, they allow some leeway, put out competitive and (semi)reliable race cars. Its pointless to just throw money and parts at something. Thats not really building a race car, its building a car with a bunch of parts. Half the point of racing is the limit on the car, making the guy driving it do the work.
With a K, get the Type S brakes and MC, you're gonna need those, get a set of Konis, some Ground controls, if you want to get nuts with it, have them custom valved, run something like 375 in the front, 700-900 in the rear, but be careful with that... it'll oversteer if you're not gentile. Forget JDM anything. Everything on a track car is 100% disposable, INCLUDING THE MOTOR. That thing isn't gonna last forever. Definitely don't do anything that raises the redline, K20s do not like getting run behind the stock redline for extended periods of time, they will throw rods, its been tested by teams who do endurance racing, keep it at 8200.
Also, don't moonroof it, just weld the hole shut, but for now just leave it. The car would be a hell of a lot stiffer with a solid roof.
No real sense for carbon fiber anything, especially if you're worried about what it looks like. Tracks are incredibly dirty, all the stuff getting kicked up will trash the paint on your front end. I assure you the 20 lbs you save won't make a difference.
But forget all that for now, go learn how to drive. You'll need to save some money for the repair bills, which I assure you will sky rocket. My general rule is to have 5 times the event entry fee in reserve to fix anything that breaks. Thats typically 1500 bucks laying around in repair reserves. I've never gone that far, but pads and rotors are a frequent purchase, and tires are once a year.... it adds up. If you blow something big, you need to be ready to fix it or have another car.
Watch the SM rules carefully and make sure you don't put yourself into DSP or D-mod. I don't remember all the SM rules but I think if you start going overboard with the motor, especially opening it up, you run yourself into some trouble.
With a K, get the Type S brakes and MC, you're gonna need those, get a set of Konis, some Ground controls, if you want to get nuts with it, have them custom valved, run something like 375 in the front, 700-900 in the rear, but be careful with that... it'll oversteer if you're not gentile. Forget JDM anything. Everything on a track car is 100% disposable, INCLUDING THE MOTOR. That thing isn't gonna last forever. Definitely don't do anything that raises the redline, K20s do not like getting run behind the stock redline for extended periods of time, they will throw rods, its been tested by teams who do endurance racing, keep it at 8200.
Also, don't moonroof it, just weld the hole shut, but for now just leave it. The car would be a hell of a lot stiffer with a solid roof.
No real sense for carbon fiber anything, especially if you're worried about what it looks like. Tracks are incredibly dirty, all the stuff getting kicked up will trash the paint on your front end. I assure you the 20 lbs you save won't make a difference.
But forget all that for now, go learn how to drive. You'll need to save some money for the repair bills, which I assure you will sky rocket. My general rule is to have 5 times the event entry fee in reserve to fix anything that breaks. Thats typically 1500 bucks laying around in repair reserves. I've never gone that far, but pads and rotors are a frequent purchase, and tires are once a year.... it adds up. If you blow something big, you need to be ready to fix it or have another car.
Watch the SM rules carefully and make sure you don't put yourself into DSP or D-mod. I don't remember all the SM rules but I think if you start going overboard with the motor, especially opening it up, you run yourself into some trouble.
I really apriciate your input. I have autoxd this car almost since I have had it. I did decent in STS and now compete quite well in SM. I do know how to drive the car, so I am beyond that. However, I do know that there is always room for improvment LOL.
Several guys that I am friends with compete in NASA etc., so they will be helping keep me straight. The thing is as I said before I want a STREETABLE car that I can take to track days, and compete quite well in SM for autox. I would like to compete in maybe a couple of time attacks.
Type S brakes don't fit unless you do a 5 lug conversion and that is not worth the gain. If I really wanted to do the brakes right I would do Brembos or something crazy like that, but then those only really help with brake fade, if the car is tracked.
As far as the issues with the engine being overreved; the connecting pin breaks and the cylinder launches. As described, it is a bad deal, but this has only happened a couple of times to some of the more extream Euro. racing teams. Most of these guys have these engines swapped into a Lotus Elise that sees nothing but the track. They run at over 9k rpms for hours at a time, some have problems others have had engines for thousands of track hours without. For now I stick to a bit above stock (8300 rpms), it really makes no sense for me to go more at this point because my hp begins to drop at 8100rpms. However I would not be afraid to take it to 8600 if there would be gains.
Honestly, the biggest mod may be race tires and 16" rims; however, I enjoy the idea of making my car as light as possible and still look stock (more of the streetable aspect).
Last edited by EMK20a2; Oct 31, 2006 at 08:15 PM.
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