friggin noob needs help with camber kit
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Hey guys, i lowered my front end today and noticed the negative camber. ive been looking for a front end kit and cant locate one. can some one help with a link? also i have no friggin idea how to install one, so a diy or link to one would help. also whether or not i would even need one i think the drop was only an inch and one half. i have a 2 door ex 2001 civic if that helps and i cant think of what the coilovers name is either. thanks in advance.
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SPC makes good ones for front and rear. the rear is the more important. and you cant really diy because you need the expensive alignment machine. you need one for any amount of drop if you want to be able to align the car afterwards.
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?!?
Front does not gain negative camber when lowered - your problem is somewhere else.
Or your car is not a 01, but earlier models.
Front does not gain negative camber when lowered - your problem is somewhere else.
Or your car is not a 01, but earlier models.
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hmm. i have a buddy who works at goodyear, do shops usually put camber kits on then align. also i have yet to drop the back should i do that first then bring it all up there or do peice by piece cuz the steering is squirrley as heck. it wants to pull and slide a lil when taking heavy turns like in an "s" turn at 20mph. will just an alignment help that? or do i have to go all in.
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mine is exactly like yours but blue ive checked the carfax and vin to verify. it cant be earlier cuz the 2000 was a completely diff suspension setup. ive also had one of those. and the o4 started an even newer suspension setup with some remenisent parts of the 01 to 03 style
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i may have said it wrong what is going on is that the top of the tire is further inside the wheel well than the bottom like this if youre lookin at it from tyhe front / \
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our front suspension is Macpherson type - the camber changes across the suspension travel is close to negligible - dropping the car is not supposed to cause any visible changes - when you lift, the suspension at full droop will have a somewhat visible change to positive, but that's a lot of travel.
Not sure if taking to alignment will solve, but at the least they can try.
Also, the front camber kit for our cars is just an eccentric bolt. Rears are multi-link type designed to gain a lot of negative camber (to understeer the car in the limit - good for average driver).
Anywa, if you going to align, do both first.
The description of the car behaviour indicates more to an extreme toe than camber effects.
Not sure if taking to alignment will solve, but at the least they can try.
Also, the front camber kit for our cars is just an eccentric bolt. Rears are multi-link type designed to gain a lot of negative camber (to understeer the car in the limit - good for average driver).
Anywa, if you going to align, do both first.
The description of the car behaviour indicates more to an extreme toe than camber effects.
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toe hmm thats possible cuz i am the first to tell you that i dont squat about suspension as my posts can verify. so drop all then bring it to the shop after purchasing a rear camber kit? do i have to include lca's or is that something else
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here - some history - if you had a previous generation - they had the double wishbone - could be designed with huge camber gains.
Ours are macpherson, the second listed here.
http://ateupwithmotor.com/technology...t-history.html
check your suspension for loosen, broken, cocked pieces. Also check if they look like open to the fronts (toe-out).
Installing the rear camber kit and fronts are easy enough if you installing the new springs. Hopefully you did get new struts that can handle the springs. Stock struts will blow in no time with lowering springs...
Ours are macpherson, the second listed here.
http://ateupwithmotor.com/technology...t-history.html
check your suspension for loosen, broken, cocked pieces. Also check if they look like open to the fronts (toe-out).
Installing the rear camber kit and fronts are easy enough if you installing the new springs. Hopefully you did get new struts that can handle the springs. Stock struts will blow in no time with lowering springs...
Last edited by sdaidoji; 03-18-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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then you are good on that (pheew!).
install the rears and go for an alignment but do inspect and track back the install - it does not sound right that you have added neg camber in fronts.
Rear camber kits are still recommendable, as explained before, to bring the rear camber closer to zero.
Consider fronts after finding out what's off in the fronts.
install the rears and go for an alignment but do inspect and track back the install - it does not sound right that you have added neg camber in fronts.
Rear camber kits are still recommendable, as explained before, to bring the rear camber closer to zero.
Consider fronts after finding out what's off in the fronts.
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ok that second one looks almost exactly like mine only i have a large v shaped piece of metal which i assume is my control arm on it other that that its exact
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yes, pretty sure you have a 01 after your description. the v-shape is the before mentioned LCA. please note the description of no camber gains in there
•No camber gain: Because the top of the vertical strut is mounted rigidly to the body structure, MacPherson struts do not provide camber gain -- the wheels lose camber as the body leans. You can compensate to some degree by designing the suspension with a few degrees of static negative camber (that is, aligning the wheels so that the upper halves are tilted slightly inward when the car is level), but too much negative camber causes uneven tire wear. The only way to prevent camber loss is to use stiffer springs and/or anti-roll bars to reduce body lean, which results in a stiffer ride. It's possible to make a MacPherson strut car handle very well, as Porsche, Volkswagen, and BMW have repeatedly demonstrated, but it compromises ride quality more than would be the case with a double-wishbone suspension.
Sooo, by just dropping the car, the rears should look like /\, but not the fronts.
•No camber gain: Because the top of the vertical strut is mounted rigidly to the body structure, MacPherson struts do not provide camber gain -- the wheels lose camber as the body leans. You can compensate to some degree by designing the suspension with a few degrees of static negative camber (that is, aligning the wheels so that the upper halves are tilted slightly inward when the car is level), but too much negative camber causes uneven tire wear. The only way to prevent camber loss is to use stiffer springs and/or anti-roll bars to reduce body lean, which results in a stiffer ride. It's possible to make a MacPherson strut car handle very well, as Porsche, Volkswagen, and BMW have repeatedly demonstrated, but it compromises ride quality more than would be the case with a double-wishbone suspension.
Sooo, by just dropping the car, the rears should look like /\, but not the fronts.
Last edited by sdaidoji; 03-18-2011 at 10:58 PM.
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awesome i will drop the back , get a front alignment and get a camber for the back and an additional rear alignment correct?
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im in love with your civic dude any other pics floatin around? also do you know of any good interior places to look at online i want to chang the tan collor of mine to black and felt the dash cap.
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inspect the fronts for possible installation issues. try to have a friend mech savvy to look at it also.
Install the rears.
then align. (it's costly if well done - i have to pay 120 for a guy that knows what he is doing)
Install the rears.
then align. (it's costly if well done - i have to pay 120 for a guy that knows what he is doing)
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Mine is basically stock except for the mods in my sig, mostly suspension as you can tell.
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cool yeah as i said my buddy works at goodyear so hes hooking me up for like 60 i give him great business tho. i just got 4 brand new tires for my accord that should have cost 600 for around 380 mounted and balanced. so im good there. hes also a beemer enthusiast who just put a 3 inch drop on his ol school 325 is but that has a more rigid sports chassis
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oh, yeh. forgot that piece. so have him look at ur fronts before doing the rears. potentially you might not need the front camber kit (they are just bolts, so cheap, anyways, buuuut), but U will likely need the rears.
hope all goes well for you
hope all goes well for you
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FYI: FWD vehicles are designed with minor toe-in 'cause when they pull they tend to pull to the outside.
I'm not talking to you sdaidoji, I just used your quote to express a thought. But, yes, toe-out sounds like what it's doing as the knuckles are further from their original positions.
I'm not talking to you sdaidoji, I just used your quote to express a thought. But, yes, toe-out sounds like what it's doing as the knuckles are further from their original positions.
Last edited by lazlong; 03-18-2011 at 11:26 PM.
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^ yeh, when the camber goes neg, the geometry makes toe go out, hence the twitch description
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also im having a problem finding rear shock mounts. i went to weksos as usual but they didnt have any. can any one point me in the direction to find some
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http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0 To buy just follow the link. Or go to the local dealer.
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what about after market. also ground control sells one for 1988 to 2000 that looks as if it would work it has the two bolts for the mount and the shafty piece will those do
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