Rep Power: 229

hi there guys, a few months ago i posted that my car was pulling to one side a bit. i finally got my car jacked up when i was changing the oil.

nothing looked broken but...

the driverside front suspention (not sure what to call it, but the whole item that holds the wheel and the sprint and shock section) decompressed way quicker then the passenger's side. after i put the wheels back on the driver's side compressed way faster, down two like 2.5in (wheel space from oter body), while the passenger's was still an inch higher. after time to compress, the driver's side is still lower then the passengers.

~am i looking to replace springs, shocks, both, other?
~about how much could this cost?
~should i replace with a dropkit instead of oem parts (not even sure if this applies but thought i'd ask)

thx for helping in advance =D

 
Rep Power: 285

It sounds like your strut is blown, which isn't a huge issue, but you should address it since a blown strut will wear everything on a car much more quickly than normal.

To replace all 4 struts with Tokico Blues and change the strut mounts would probably be around $450. You might also need to replace tie rod ends, LCA bushings and ball joints, which would be another $250 since they're also all wear suspension components. So far, I've only replaced the LCA bushings. If you want to drop add another $300+ for springs and a camber kit.

None of those prices include labour, I did it all myself, but Budget in Abbotsford has helped out a lot of tuner friends of mine and they always give really good prices. They installed my friends lowering springs for an ounce and a 15 pack lol.

 
Rep Power: 229

i guess i'd try to do it myself if it is the strut.

what tools did you use? spring compressor?

 
Rep Power: 285

No spring compressor, but it would have been easier with one and I think you can rent them from Canadian tire. Other than that all I had was a basic socket set when I did it and I didn't have to much trouble.

 
Rep Power: 229

i'll search for a diy in a sec but did you just jack it up, then unbolt those top three bolts above the wheel whell in the engine bay/ or something from the bottom?

 
Rep Power: 285

Yup, there's two bolts 14mm bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle, the bolt that attaches the strut to the tie rod end, a couple small bolts that hold the brake line to the strut, the three bolts up top and the spring retainer bolt that holds the assembly together.

I was actually surprised how easily all the bolts came loose, I thought it would be a pain, but none of them gave me any trouble.

 
Rep Power: 229

can you give me a run down of what order you removed the bolts? i searched "diy strut", but found nothing, do you know of a stickied one to look at?

 
Rep Power: 285

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...info-pics.html

 
Rep Power: 229

thx man +1. danr it i can't... i'll try later.

 
Rep Power: 256

strut diy http://gametrax.net/springs/index.html
or koni inserts http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ion/index.html

 
Rep Power: 285

I'm going to bring up in the mod area removing the "you need to spread some reputation around" thing, so annoying.

 
Rep Power: 229

i know! if the same person helps you with quality answers 7x in a row then they deserve 7 rep back. ps are we going to get some kind of system back for ranking up? i mean i can't see # of posts or anythink just the rep power count and green bar.

 
Rep Power: 285

We've had a few issues behind the scenes, hence the points being gone now as well. Things should be straightened up in the new year though.

I'd also like rep from members with low points to count for more, I get rep'd 3-4 times a day on average, but it rarely shows.

 
Rep Power: 367

Mac,

don't forget to change the top mounts bearings as well, preferrably with 03+ ones - metal, not plastic frames

 
Rep Power: 285

02+ are metal I believe..

 
Rep Power: 367

woops

 
Rep Power: 352

all bearings now are metal. the early production of the 01-02 had plastic. but not everything is metal.


if u have the 01-02 bearings/top mounts, stick with them. they are better for the koni/GC setup.

the reason is the GC spring is pretty short and if u go fast over a bump or a pot hole, the 03+ will make a loud pop because it gets unseated and then reseated. 01-02 are designed where it doesnt do that.

 
Rep Power: 229

if i was going to drop it do i need bothe the springs and strut to be performance or just the springs? or what exactly makes a coilover what it is? i might just spend a bit more and upgrade suspention while i'm at it and drop it, instead of stock parts.

if i did drop it, could i just use coilovers (i'm guessing they're just a strut spring combo here), or whould i have to buy other performence parts to support these?

 
Rep Power: 367

You will need struts/shocks that can handle the drop/stiffer springs - tokiko blues are most recommended. stockies might last a few months, but likely will die sometime faster than you would like it to.
coilovers are another option.
1" drop on my eibach springs and my rears got at -1.6 deg camber, so recommend rear camber kit at the least or huge rear sway bar to partially compensate for the added understeer (fronts close to 0 camber, rears -1.6 or higher reduces the front grip considerably...)
Now, just be careful, remeber the snow . The coilovers will allow you to raise the car in heavy snow, but will require an alignment afterward the raise.
If you decide for coilovers, the D2 seems a good choice, but never driven it (xRiceBoyx had them, so he could give you some driving impressions). I liked them for the front top camber plates (much easier than the crash bolts for the other ones).

 
Rep Power: 229

would you recumend i baught a combo of the blues like this http://www.prostreetonline.com/x/tokico-hp-kit.asp that comes with the struts and a lowering spring?

 
Rep Power: 352

tokico blues are ment for stock replacement. they are a bit better but not as good or even close to whats offered out there. blues are not good for drops over 1.8"

i recomend the tokico D spec or koni yellow (but koni yellow is a PITA to install)

 
Rep Power: 229

well well see what kind of money i have in the summer. kinda wanted to start saving for a turbo build but no point in turboing if my suspension's going to drive me into a tree, lol.

 
Rep Power: 352

the D spec isnt too much more $$$.

and ur logic is absolutely correct.

 
Rep Power: 285

All depends on budget, D-specs aren't that expensive, but they are double the cost of blues. I have blues and there is a pretty significant difference between them and straight OEM, they are significantly stiffer and help a lot in handling.

 
Rep Power: 229

ya the blues are looking pretty good.