Do It Yourself Spring Install - Detailed Info & Pics
04-07-2003
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Do It Yourself Spring Install - Detailed Info & Pics (updated 06.02.2003)
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Below you will learn how to disassemble the struts and springs from your 2001+ Civic. It's difficult to explain how to add your new springs/coilovers because every brand has their own way of going about it. if your set didn't come with instructions, and you're not entirely sure how to go about installing them, I advise you search to see if your questions have been addressed in a previous topic on this forum. For the most part though, the installation is pretty obvious; the smaller, thicker spring goes in the front, and the taller, thinner spring goes in the rear. Regardless what lowering springs you're installing, i recommend you cut your bumpstops in half. This will allow your shock more room to travel in rough road conditions. In the front they're black (attached to a rubber dust boot cover), in the rear they're yellow/orange in color. Just use cable or wire cutters to snip them off.
This DIY was performed on a 2002 LX coupe. If you have an EX model the only difference would be you'd have to remove the ABS lines from the strut. If you are working on a sedan, the process of getting to the upper rear strut bolts may be different due to the seat layout.
Before you begin, you have to decide how you're going to go about the installation. In order to do suspension work, you MUST have your car jacked up on jack stands with a rating of at least 2 tons. This is for your own safety. You'll need 2 for the front and 2 for the rear. If you have access to 4 jack stands, you can go ahead and jack up the front and rear at the same time. Otherwise, just use 2 in the front, and relocate them to the rear once the fronts are done (or vice versa). Before you jack up the car to slide the jack stands underneath, remember to loosen the lug nuts on your wheels, and make sure your parking brake is engaged! Once the front / rear is secured on jack stands, go ahead and remove the wheels.
*** IMPORTANT NOTES***
Jack stands must be placed on a reinforced part of the cars chassis. This also applies when lifting the car with a jack. If you're not sure where these points are, look in your owners manual.
It is critical that all the tools you use are metric. Otherwise you risk stripping your bolts.
When removing nuts and bolts make note on how tight they were, so when reinstalling everything, you can torque them down the same way they were before.
And the most important note of all... LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY!
-------------------------
Tools used:
1 x OEM jack
2 x jack stands
1 x socket wrench (2 recommended-- a longer arm is a plus for better leverage/torque)
1 x 19mm deep socket (2 recommended, both don't need to be deep)
1 x 17mm socket
1 x 17mm wrench
1 x 14mm deep socket
1 x 14mm wrench
1 x 12mm socket
1 x 10mm socket (if you have ABS)
1 x socket extension arm (long and short-- you'll find uses for both throughout the install)
1 x 6mm hex wrench
1 x 5mm hex wrench
1 x needle nose pliers
1 x wire/cable cutters or sharp knife (for trimming bump stops)
1 x hammer
1 x tie rod seperator (optional)
1 x spring compressor (may be necessary when assembling the new springs)
-------------------------
1) Open the hood and locate the top of the strut. In this picture the owner has already installed an optional strut tower bar which connects the 2 strut towers in the engine bay to stiffen the chassis and get better steering response.
-------------------------
2) Loosen the 17mm nut in the center of the strut. you do NOT want to remove this nut completely. You can try to use a socket wrench to loosen it, but after awhile the strut will begin to turn with it. Once this happens, you'll need to slide a 6mm hex key into the top of the nut to keep the strut from turning and a 17mm wrench to turn the nut. If it's rusty and hard to turn, you can spray on some WD-40 to loosen it up a little. Stop turning it once you have about 3 or 4 threads showing on the nut. See the pic below:
-------------------------
3) Now lets move down into the wheel well and work on the bottom of the strut. There are three bolts down here we need to remove. (4 if you have ABS). Let's begin with the brake line.
-------------------------
4) Remove the brake line with a 12mm socket. If you have ABS, there will be another 10mm bolt just over to the left you'll need to remove.
-------------------------
5) To remove the strut from the rotor, remove the two 19mm nuts shown below. It's easier to loosen the nut first, as the bolt itself won't turn until the nut has been loosened. These nuts are torqued VERY tight, you you'll need some muscle. Best tool to use is a [socket] wrench with a long handle for leverage.
-------------------------
6) Once the nuts have been removed, you will be able to pull, or hammer out, the bolts. BUT, you don't want to remove them yet.
-------------------------
7) BTW, you should find a good place to store the nuts and bolts you remove so you don't lose them
-------------------------
8) Moving on now to the tie rod. This is one of the most difficult parts to work with when removing the front suspension.
-------------------------
9) First, remove the cotter pin going through the bolt. It's there to keep the nut from falling off should it become loose when driving.
-------------------------
10) Once the pin is removed, use a 17mm socket to remove the nut.
-------------------------
11) Now for the tricky part. You need to lift the tie rod out of the strut. This can't be done simply by lifting up on it. The easiest way to remove it is to first hammer the end of the strut arm where the tie rod sits. You'll want to give it about 20-30 good whacks. After you're done hammering, try lifting or tapping the tie rod bolt from the bottom and see if it comes up out of the strut (see animation below). If the bolt does not come up after a few taps with the hammer, then don't keep trying. You should not have to hammer that hard to get it out. Continuing to hammer will warp the threads on the end of the bolt and the nut you removed earlier may not go back on easily, if at all.
If you need to use more force to hammer that bolt out, a trick that will prevent the bolt from warping is to hold a thick piece of soft wood underneath the bolt. Rather than hitting the bolt directly, hammer up on the wood. This will reduce the force being put on the end of the bolt. You could also put that 17mm tie rod nut near the end of the bolt as another precaution to protect the threads.
Now if you DO manage to warp the threads, all hope is not lost! Once you're finished with the install and you try to put the 17mm nut back on, it will turn the tie rod bolt as you try to screw it on, thus making no progress. To prevent it from turning, you will need to put LOTS of pressure on top of the tie rod as you screw it back on. I've heard of people wedging a piece of wood on top of it, but I find the best way to go about it is with the OEM jack. Just set it on top and raise it until you have it wedged down really good (see pic below). If that doesn't work, just wedge it more and more until it does work. If you give up, the part runs about $40 at honda dealers. Hopefully you won't have resort to that though.
-------------------------
12) Another way to go about removing the tie rod is with a 'tie rod separator', available at any auto parts store. Just wedge it between the tie rod and the strut and try with all your might to pry it out. Hammering the end of the tie rod separator helps wedge it in further. As you're trying to remove it, you may notice some grease leaking out of the rubber boot on the tie rod. As long as it isn't torn badly you'll be fine-- a tie rod separator will not tear it badly. An air hammer will, as i found out the hard way months ago.
-------------------------
13) You can see the difference between a good tie rod boot:
And one that's torn:
-------------------------
14) Now go back to the strut tower and start removing the three 14mm nuts.
-------------------------
15) Remove all but one (doesn't matter which nut you choose to leave on). You can loosen it but you don't want to remove it entirely yet. That will be the only nut keeping the strut from falling.
-------------------------
16) Now go back down to the bottom of the strut and start pulling out the top bolt. If you need to, you can hammer them out, since there are no threads on the inside. Once you pull out the top bolt, you'll notice the rotor begin to fall forward.
-------------------------
17) I recommend you use a tire to catch it once you remove the last bolt. if it falls too quickly, you'll break the CV joint. Just let it rest on the tire for now.
-------------------------
18) Now you're ready to remove the assembly from the car. Go ahead and remove the last 14mm nut on the top of the strut tower and make sure you catch the falling strut at the same time. When you work it out, be careful not to snag it on the ABS / brake lines.
-------------------------
19) Before you disassemble the strut, you need to mark the top and bottom to insure you line them up correctly when putting them back together. If you're working on a 2002+ model, the top mount should already me marked with an L or R (for left and right) and an arrow pointing in the direction it should be facing when it goes back on the car. If the top and bottom are not put together correctly the bolts will not line up in the strut tower, so this is important. If the marks aren't there, just use white out or something.
-------------------------
20) Now for the scary part. Taking apart the strut. That 17mm nut on top, the one that we first loosened in the beginning, is the only thing keeping the strut from springing apart (no pun intended). Some say you should always use a spring compressor when doing this. In fact, I say you should always use a spring compressor, but as the writer of this DIY, I am telling you it's not necessary with the 2001+ Civics, as long as you have someone sit on the spring, or as I did it, stand on it with my foot. It doesn't spring out like you think it would (I've tested this on 6 cars already). Below you will see a video of me removing the 17mm nut and the strut coming apart. I was probably only applying 70 lbs. of pressure to the spring with my foot, so it's much more effective if you sit on the spring and remove the nut. Even though I have deemed it safe, you should have the spring aiming away from anything that it might cause damage to just in case it's under a little more pressure. And if you have access to a spring compressor, then don't be a man. Use it.
Once you put on your new springs, just follow these directions in reverse. You may need to compress the spring in order to put that 17mm bolt back on the top of the strut assembly, unless you have 4 strong hands. If you are installing coilovers, make sure you use the factory bearing ring! Without it you will get nasty clanging noises every time you turn. On the 2001 models, it's a plastic piece with grease on it, on the 2002-2003 models it will be a metal ring attached to the spring cap. Careful when prying it off the cap or you'll open it up and release the ball bearings inside.
-------------------------
21) Now it's time for the rears. Fold down your seats and pry out what some people call "the secret compartment". This is how you will remove one of the two 14mm nuts in the back. You'll need an extension attachment to reach down there. If you're working on a sedan, you'll need to remove the entire panel between the door and seat. There are maybe 4 clips holding it in place. Just push out the clip that's visible from inside the trunk, then you can lift up on the panel to remove it.
-------------------------
22) Sorry for the dark picture, but once you peel away the lining behind the seats, you'll see the top of the strut, and the two 14mm nuts you need to remove. This is also a good time to loosen the 14mm nut on the very top of the strut assembly, the same way we did in the front; just until maybe 2 or 3 threads are showing on the inside. You'll eventually need to use a 5mm hex key to keep the strut from turning as you loosen the nut, as was the case with the front.
-------------------------
23) Here, the two 14mm nuts have been removed from the rear strut tower. Again, that nut in the far back you'll have to loosen by using an extension through "the secret compartment". It's much easier.
-------------------------
24) Now, the last bolt you need to remove. This bad boy is a 17mm. Do not try to loosen the nut on the opposite side, as it is welded to the control arm. People will laugh at you.
-------------------------
25) You may have to get underneath the car to get good leverage to loosen this bolt, but once you get it started, it gets tricky. After you loosen it about a half inch, you'll notice it won't come out anymore. To continue removing it, you'll need to pull the bolt as you unscrew it, or even better, push it out from the other side.
-------------------------
26) Here I am using a thin allen wrench to push it as I unscrew. technically you shouldn't need to unscrew the bolt anymore, since the only thing that holds it in are the threads on the nut. but rather than pounding it out with a hammer, it also helps to unscrew as you push. Once it's almost out, you may need someone to stand on or apply pressure to the control arm, which can easily be done by standing on the rotor itself.. believe me, it makes it much easier to pull out the bolt. You'll also want to do this when putting the strut back on the car. Now, when you're finished with the install and putting this bolt back on the car, once you have the bolt going through the strut to the other side, lower the car all the way before tightening it down completely! Otherwise you risk tearing the bushings going around the bottom eyelets (if applicable). You want them to settle in first.
-------------------------
27) Now you can remove the assembly from the rear. In this case, I forgot to loosen the 14mm nut on the top of the strut while it was still in the car. So here I am, doing it now. Take my word, it's much easier to loosen while it's still in the car.
-------------------------
28) Again, only loosen it to the point that 2 or 3 threads are showing from the top of the nut.
Also, remember to mark the top and bottom of the strut assembly before you take it apart so you can match up the marks on the top and bottom when you put it back together!
-------------------------
29) Now for the scary part all over again. Taking apart the strut. I found that the rear struts were not as compressed as the fronts, so this should be even easier to take apart. Just like before, have someone sit on the spring, or apply weight with your foot. Below is the video of me removing the 14mm nut that holds it together. You can barely even see it pop apart.
Pay close attention to the order of the parts that come off so you can put them back together correctly. And depending on what kind of springs/coilovers you got, you may not need to use some parts. Sometimes common sense should tell you, but if you're not certain, either search or ask!
-------------------------
30)
Printer friendly version: Click here
Below you will learn how to disassemble the struts and springs from your 2001+ Civic. It's difficult to explain how to add your new springs/coilovers because every brand has their own way of going about it. if your set didn't come with instructions, and you're not entirely sure how to go about installing them, I advise you search to see if your questions have been addressed in a previous topic on this forum. For the most part though, the installation is pretty obvious; the smaller, thicker spring goes in the front, and the taller, thinner spring goes in the rear. Regardless what lowering springs you're installing, i recommend you cut your bumpstops in half. This will allow your shock more room to travel in rough road conditions. In the front they're black (attached to a rubber dust boot cover), in the rear they're yellow/orange in color. Just use cable or wire cutters to snip them off.
This DIY was performed on a 2002 LX coupe. If you have an EX model the only difference would be you'd have to remove the ABS lines from the strut. If you are working on a sedan, the process of getting to the upper rear strut bolts may be different due to the seat layout.
Before you begin, you have to decide how you're going to go about the installation. In order to do suspension work, you MUST have your car jacked up on jack stands with a rating of at least 2 tons. This is for your own safety. You'll need 2 for the front and 2 for the rear. If you have access to 4 jack stands, you can go ahead and jack up the front and rear at the same time. Otherwise, just use 2 in the front, and relocate them to the rear once the fronts are done (or vice versa). Before you jack up the car to slide the jack stands underneath, remember to loosen the lug nuts on your wheels, and make sure your parking brake is engaged! Once the front / rear is secured on jack stands, go ahead and remove the wheels.
*** IMPORTANT NOTES***
Jack stands must be placed on a reinforced part of the cars chassis. This also applies when lifting the car with a jack. If you're not sure where these points are, look in your owners manual.
It is critical that all the tools you use are metric. Otherwise you risk stripping your bolts.
When removing nuts and bolts make note on how tight they were, so when reinstalling everything, you can torque them down the same way they were before.
And the most important note of all... LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY!
-------------------------
Tools used:
1 x OEM jack
2 x jack stands
1 x socket wrench (2 recommended-- a longer arm is a plus for better leverage/torque)
1 x 19mm deep socket (2 recommended, both don't need to be deep)
1 x 17mm socket
1 x 17mm wrench
1 x 14mm deep socket
1 x 14mm wrench
1 x 12mm socket
1 x 10mm socket (if you have ABS)
1 x socket extension arm (long and short-- you'll find uses for both throughout the install)
1 x 6mm hex wrench
1 x 5mm hex wrench
1 x needle nose pliers
1 x wire/cable cutters or sharp knife (for trimming bump stops)
1 x hammer
1 x tie rod seperator (optional)
1 x spring compressor (may be necessary when assembling the new springs)
-------------------------
1) Open the hood and locate the top of the strut. In this picture the owner has already installed an optional strut tower bar which connects the 2 strut towers in the engine bay to stiffen the chassis and get better steering response.
-------------------------
2) Loosen the 17mm nut in the center of the strut. you do NOT want to remove this nut completely. You can try to use a socket wrench to loosen it, but after awhile the strut will begin to turn with it. Once this happens, you'll need to slide a 6mm hex key into the top of the nut to keep the strut from turning and a 17mm wrench to turn the nut. If it's rusty and hard to turn, you can spray on some WD-40 to loosen it up a little. Stop turning it once you have about 3 or 4 threads showing on the nut. See the pic below:
-------------------------
3) Now lets move down into the wheel well and work on the bottom of the strut. There are three bolts down here we need to remove. (4 if you have ABS). Let's begin with the brake line.
-------------------------
4) Remove the brake line with a 12mm socket. If you have ABS, there will be another 10mm bolt just over to the left you'll need to remove.
-------------------------
5) To remove the strut from the rotor, remove the two 19mm nuts shown below. It's easier to loosen the nut first, as the bolt itself won't turn until the nut has been loosened. These nuts are torqued VERY tight, you you'll need some muscle. Best tool to use is a [socket] wrench with a long handle for leverage.
-------------------------
6) Once the nuts have been removed, you will be able to pull, or hammer out, the bolts. BUT, you don't want to remove them yet.
-------------------------
7) BTW, you should find a good place to store the nuts and bolts you remove so you don't lose them
-------------------------
8) Moving on now to the tie rod. This is one of the most difficult parts to work with when removing the front suspension.
-------------------------
9) First, remove the cotter pin going through the bolt. It's there to keep the nut from falling off should it become loose when driving.
-------------------------
10) Once the pin is removed, use a 17mm socket to remove the nut.
-------------------------
11) Now for the tricky part. You need to lift the tie rod out of the strut. This can't be done simply by lifting up on it. The easiest way to remove it is to first hammer the end of the strut arm where the tie rod sits. You'll want to give it about 20-30 good whacks. After you're done hammering, try lifting or tapping the tie rod bolt from the bottom and see if it comes up out of the strut (see animation below). If the bolt does not come up after a few taps with the hammer, then don't keep trying. You should not have to hammer that hard to get it out. Continuing to hammer will warp the threads on the end of the bolt and the nut you removed earlier may not go back on easily, if at all.
If you need to use more force to hammer that bolt out, a trick that will prevent the bolt from warping is to hold a thick piece of soft wood underneath the bolt. Rather than hitting the bolt directly, hammer up on the wood. This will reduce the force being put on the end of the bolt. You could also put that 17mm tie rod nut near the end of the bolt as another precaution to protect the threads.
Now if you DO manage to warp the threads, all hope is not lost! Once you're finished with the install and you try to put the 17mm nut back on, it will turn the tie rod bolt as you try to screw it on, thus making no progress. To prevent it from turning, you will need to put LOTS of pressure on top of the tie rod as you screw it back on. I've heard of people wedging a piece of wood on top of it, but I find the best way to go about it is with the OEM jack. Just set it on top and raise it until you have it wedged down really good (see pic below). If that doesn't work, just wedge it more and more until it does work. If you give up, the part runs about $40 at honda dealers. Hopefully you won't have resort to that though.
-------------------------
12) Another way to go about removing the tie rod is with a 'tie rod separator', available at any auto parts store. Just wedge it between the tie rod and the strut and try with all your might to pry it out. Hammering the end of the tie rod separator helps wedge it in further. As you're trying to remove it, you may notice some grease leaking out of the rubber boot on the tie rod. As long as it isn't torn badly you'll be fine-- a tie rod separator will not tear it badly. An air hammer will, as i found out the hard way months ago.
-------------------------
13) You can see the difference between a good tie rod boot:
And one that's torn:
-------------------------
14) Now go back to the strut tower and start removing the three 14mm nuts.
-------------------------
15) Remove all but one (doesn't matter which nut you choose to leave on). You can loosen it but you don't want to remove it entirely yet. That will be the only nut keeping the strut from falling.
-------------------------
16) Now go back down to the bottom of the strut and start pulling out the top bolt. If you need to, you can hammer them out, since there are no threads on the inside. Once you pull out the top bolt, you'll notice the rotor begin to fall forward.
-------------------------
17) I recommend you use a tire to catch it once you remove the last bolt. if it falls too quickly, you'll break the CV joint. Just let it rest on the tire for now.
-------------------------
18) Now you're ready to remove the assembly from the car. Go ahead and remove the last 14mm nut on the top of the strut tower and make sure you catch the falling strut at the same time. When you work it out, be careful not to snag it on the ABS / brake lines.
-------------------------
19) Before you disassemble the strut, you need to mark the top and bottom to insure you line them up correctly when putting them back together. If you're working on a 2002+ model, the top mount should already me marked with an L or R (for left and right) and an arrow pointing in the direction it should be facing when it goes back on the car. If the top and bottom are not put together correctly the bolts will not line up in the strut tower, so this is important. If the marks aren't there, just use white out or something.
-------------------------
20) Now for the scary part. Taking apart the strut. That 17mm nut on top, the one that we first loosened in the beginning, is the only thing keeping the strut from springing apart (no pun intended). Some say you should always use a spring compressor when doing this. In fact, I say you should always use a spring compressor, but as the writer of this DIY, I am telling you it's not necessary with the 2001+ Civics, as long as you have someone sit on the spring, or as I did it, stand on it with my foot. It doesn't spring out like you think it would (I've tested this on 6 cars already). Below you will see a video of me removing the 17mm nut and the strut coming apart. I was probably only applying 70 lbs. of pressure to the spring with my foot, so it's much more effective if you sit on the spring and remove the nut. Even though I have deemed it safe, you should have the spring aiming away from anything that it might cause damage to just in case it's under a little more pressure. And if you have access to a spring compressor, then don't be a man. Use it.
Once you put on your new springs, just follow these directions in reverse. You may need to compress the spring in order to put that 17mm bolt back on the top of the strut assembly, unless you have 4 strong hands. If you are installing coilovers, make sure you use the factory bearing ring! Without it you will get nasty clanging noises every time you turn. On the 2001 models, it's a plastic piece with grease on it, on the 2002-2003 models it will be a metal ring attached to the spring cap. Careful when prying it off the cap or you'll open it up and release the ball bearings inside.
-------------------------
21) Now it's time for the rears. Fold down your seats and pry out what some people call "the secret compartment". This is how you will remove one of the two 14mm nuts in the back. You'll need an extension attachment to reach down there. If you're working on a sedan, you'll need to remove the entire panel between the door and seat. There are maybe 4 clips holding it in place. Just push out the clip that's visible from inside the trunk, then you can lift up on the panel to remove it.
-------------------------
22) Sorry for the dark picture, but once you peel away the lining behind the seats, you'll see the top of the strut, and the two 14mm nuts you need to remove. This is also a good time to loosen the 14mm nut on the very top of the strut assembly, the same way we did in the front; just until maybe 2 or 3 threads are showing on the inside. You'll eventually need to use a 5mm hex key to keep the strut from turning as you loosen the nut, as was the case with the front.
-------------------------
23) Here, the two 14mm nuts have been removed from the rear strut tower. Again, that nut in the far back you'll have to loosen by using an extension through "the secret compartment". It's much easier.
-------------------------
24) Now, the last bolt you need to remove. This bad boy is a 17mm. Do not try to loosen the nut on the opposite side, as it is welded to the control arm. People will laugh at you.
-------------------------
25) You may have to get underneath the car to get good leverage to loosen this bolt, but once you get it started, it gets tricky. After you loosen it about a half inch, you'll notice it won't come out anymore. To continue removing it, you'll need to pull the bolt as you unscrew it, or even better, push it out from the other side.
-------------------------
26) Here I am using a thin allen wrench to push it as I unscrew. technically you shouldn't need to unscrew the bolt anymore, since the only thing that holds it in are the threads on the nut. but rather than pounding it out with a hammer, it also helps to unscrew as you push. Once it's almost out, you may need someone to stand on or apply pressure to the control arm, which can easily be done by standing on the rotor itself.. believe me, it makes it much easier to pull out the bolt. You'll also want to do this when putting the strut back on the car. Now, when you're finished with the install and putting this bolt back on the car, once you have the bolt going through the strut to the other side, lower the car all the way before tightening it down completely! Otherwise you risk tearing the bushings going around the bottom eyelets (if applicable). You want them to settle in first.
-------------------------
27) Now you can remove the assembly from the rear. In this case, I forgot to loosen the 14mm nut on the top of the strut while it was still in the car. So here I am, doing it now. Take my word, it's much easier to loosen while it's still in the car.
-------------------------
28) Again, only loosen it to the point that 2 or 3 threads are showing from the top of the nut.
Also, remember to mark the top and bottom of the strut assembly before you take it apart so you can match up the marks on the top and bottom when you put it back together!
-------------------------
29) Now for the scary part all over again. Taking apart the strut. I found that the rear struts were not as compressed as the fronts, so this should be even easier to take apart. Just like before, have someone sit on the spring, or apply weight with your foot. Below is the video of me removing the 14mm nut that holds it together. You can barely even see it pop apart.
Pay close attention to the order of the parts that come off so you can put them back together correctly. And depending on what kind of springs/coilovers you got, you may not need to use some parts. Sometimes common sense should tell you, but if you're not certain, either search or ask!
-------------------------
30)
Last edited by Mex; 06-03-2003 at 06:30 PM.
04-08-2003
#8
04-08-2003
#11
Show me your titties, I'M RICK JAMES BITCH!!!
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Toca
That was a great GREAT DIY. I wish I would have known all this before i paid $150 to get it installed.
That was a great GREAT DIY. I wish I would have known all this before i paid $150 to get it installed.
$150, just to install springs??
04-08-2003
#12
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Rep Power: 0 OMG>..... MAX THAT WAS GREAT!!!! i only wished u did it before i installed my springs... spent 70 bucks on a damn manchanic.. lolz good job man really great DIY, the best i've seen so far.
04-12-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Ummm...I would NEVER use a pickle-fork to release the tierod end. That will tear the boot and require you to pick up a NEW tierod end from honda for ~$45. You CANNOT just replace the boot.
NEVER hammer the tierod end from the bottom. You are just asking for trouble.
The proper way to break the tierod end free is this.
Use a hammer to hit the OUTSIDE of the strut where the tierod goes through hit. Hit it HARD a few times and it will pop free on its own. No replacing the end and no screwed up threads. This is how the HONDA mechanics do it.
Also, Once the top perch is bolted into place, you must be able to get the bottom 2 bolts through w/o having to spin the strut. If you have to turn the strut it throws off the alignment of the top perch and you will get the popping noises when you turn at slow speeds.
NEVER hammer the tierod end from the bottom. You are just asking for trouble.
The proper way to break the tierod end free is this.
Use a hammer to hit the OUTSIDE of the strut where the tierod goes through hit. Hit it HARD a few times and it will pop free on its own. No replacing the end and no screwed up threads. This is how the HONDA mechanics do it.
Also, Once the top perch is bolted into place, you must be able to get the bottom 2 bolts through w/o having to spin the strut. If you have to turn the strut it throws off the alignment of the top perch and you will get the popping noises when you turn at slow speeds.
Last edited by Mbow; 04-12-2003 at 02:26 PM.
04-13-2003
#21
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Rep Power: 293 Use a hammer to hit the OUTSIDE of the strut where the tierod goes through hit. Hit it HARD a few times and it will pop free on its own.
Also, Once the top perch is bolted into place, you must be able to get the bottom 2 bolts through w/o having to spin the strut. If you have to turn the strut it throws off the alignment of the top perch and you will get the popping noises when you turn at slow speeds.
04-16-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Great D.I.Y., but for Skunk2 coil-overs, you need to cut the spring perch on the front stuts. Just a heads up for anyone doing coil-overs. Did mine last weekend. Took a little longer than anticipated. Had to manually saw a part of it, due to the rotating disc not getting around the arm.
04-18-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Mex
I will try this method tomorrow and update the DIY accordingly. I've never heard of this method before
are you sure that's what causes it? I thought as long as the bearing ring is still in the upper perch it doesn't matter if you turn it. regardless, it's still a bad thing to do since it throws off the alignment in general..
I will try this method tomorrow and update the DIY accordingly. I've never heard of this method before
are you sure that's what causes it? I thought as long as the bearing ring is still in the upper perch it doesn't matter if you turn it. regardless, it's still a bad thing to do since it throws off the alignment in general..
I always lined everything up but had to move them a little when putting them back in. When I reinstalled my stock springs I didn't pay much attention and you could hear those springs popping from a mile away....with the stock springs!!
So, I took them off and realigned the top perches. I made sure that they would line up with the bottom 2 bolts perfectly once I secured the top. I have never even heard the slighest peep.
I think the problem stems from the part of the perch that the top of the spring actually butts up to. You know how it is shaped a certain way, kinda lop-side in height and depth. Well, I am thinking that due to its shape, it has to be positioned just right. I don't know how to explain why I think this is but if it didn't matter, I think the perch would be the same all the way around.
Did you ever try my method for releasing the tierod?
Oh, and Mex, I feel terrible about making my comments and not giving you props for the DIY. That has got to be the best, most in depth, most easy to follow DIY that I have ever seen on this site. The pictures are amazing and that little video at the end, sweet! It must have taken quite a bit of time to put that together.
04-19-2003
#28
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Rep Power: 335 Did I do mine wrong then? I didn't remove so many parts, I hope I didn't mess anything up, 10months now and nothing wrong to me. Makes me wonder though...
04-20-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Wow! 3-5 wacks should pop it free and you shouldn't have to hit the end from the bottom afterwards. I guess it depends on how hard you can hit though...Also, loosen the nut but don't take it completely off. It will protect the threads if one were to miss the strut..LOL
04-20-2003
#30
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Rep Power: 293 I hit it about 20 times really hard and it didn't pop up on its own, but I was able to lift it out. If you hit it hard enough, you can probably lift it out in 5 hits.. I don't want anyone to strip their bolt because they didn't hammer the arm on the strut enough. you should only have to tap the tie rod out.. i'll go back and clarify that step now
