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KYB/Eibach Upgrade

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Old Apr 20, 2010
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KYB/Eibach Upgrade

Hey guys,

I've got an '01 LX automatic (110,000 mi) with leaking struts/shocks all-around. I'm thinking about ordering some KYB GR-2s and Eibach Pro-Kit springs (1" drop) from the Tire Rack in hopes of preserving some decent ride comfort with better handling. I want to install all of it myself at the end of my college's quarter in June. I've been doing research on here, bought a Hayes manual, watched YouTube videos, etc. Is there anything else that needs to be replaced when I replace the struts/shocks/springs - especially the upper mounts and strut bearings? How about the bump stops and other rubber components if they're not visibly deteriorating?

Thanks for the input...
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Old Apr 20, 2010
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Re: KYB/Eibach Upgrade

good choice bro

that will work alot better
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Old Apr 20, 2010
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Re: KYB/Eibach Upgrade

Just make sure you get new bearings for the front stuts... and a camber kit in the rear only... and YES YOU DO NEED A REAR CAMBER KIT!.. most will say no you dont and youll be kickin youself in the *** later on down the road...

For the bearings.. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER
part # 9 and you need 2
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Old Apr 20, 2010
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Re: KYB/Eibach Upgrade

really not sure about the GR-2's, i have the AGX adjustables, so i can adjust for the spring rates.
Maybe you should cut one ring of the bumpstops so you will not be hitting them frequently.
rear Camber kit is a good call, or else you will be understeering all the time in corners.
Mounts too, change them and the bearings.
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Old Apr 27, 2010
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Re: KYB/Eibach Upgrade

As far as the camber kit goes, do y'all mean those bolts and the "performance" control arms?
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Old Apr 27, 2010
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Re: KYB/Eibach Upgrade

Originally Posted by craddmd
As far as the camber kit goes, do y'all mean those bolts and the "performance" control arms?
fronts does not have dinamic camber changes, its close to same from all the suspension range. you use them if you want to put more static camber for better cornering, (if you do drive slow in the corners, not recommended for it will eat the insides of the tires).
Rears have a big dinamic camber changes, meaning when the suspension is compressed, the camber goes more negative the further low you go. So you need a static camber correction kit. That is built in from manufacturer to create understeer in the corners for average driver (which level is pretty low) for safety reasons, since underteer is easier "controlled".
So you use the rear to bring the rear camber back to "non-spread legs" for less understeer.
So, rear almost mandatory. Fronts not so much but are cheaper and one more thing that the alignment tech can mess your car with...
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