karizzle

Ok so recently I changed my shocks using the DIY on the site, and here are a couple problems I've had since

1. The 'A' of my steering wheel is now at 10:30 - 11 o'clock when I don't touch it, and the car goes straight in that position (alignment?)

2. Steering wheel is sticky when locked left or right. Better way I can describe it is if I were to turn the wheel all the way to the left (locked) or all the way to the right, its a lil sticky 'unwinding', like, it'll stay locked for a second, then stickly unwind, unlike regular cars that will unwind like butter

3. When I hit a bump, usually in turns, the car will jump, like the steering will be thrown off and jump around.

If you guys need anymore details, let me know...

Thing's I'll add....both my tie rod ends boots r ripped (ya, don't use a tie rod seperator aka pickel fork to take em off) and prior to this, I was riding on eibach sportlines with stock shocks and had none of those problems. Now I'm on the same springs with tokico blue's. Someone on another forum said the shocks cant handle the drop and are now blown which means my shocks r bottoming out in turns(as a response to #3) , any truth to that (the fact tokico blue cant handle a 1.5" drop from the sportlines)?

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

get an alig. and see wher it goes from there.

and blues should be able to handle 1.5. its just when u go past that where the problem lies....

RHCP0801

iTrader: (3)

you need an alignment whenever you change shocks, blues can handle down to 2.25 or so

DaMadScientist

iTrader: (10)

The answer to question 1 is simple, me and adam did my suspension a couple of days ago, and my steering wheel did sit at 11 o'clock when going straight, this is due to when you put in your struts, your tie rods were not positioned straight, just drive with it like that for a couple of days and it will straighten out....mine already did.

metalviper

iTrader: (13)

well i think u know now that u need an alignment ^. but sportlines are perfectly fine on blues. and not to be mean but u should have learned how to use a tie rod separator b4 actually using it. it made the install so much easier and i didnt even rip my tie rods.....plus i was a noob! haha oh and u did replace the tie rod separators right?

Devani

iTrader: (2)

use the hammer method when separating it...

because yuor boots are ripped....get it replaced soon..

beadebaserr

iTrader: (7)

am I the only person on here that didn't have to pound at their tie rods or use a seperator when I dropped my car?

but yeah the steering wheel thing is definitely the tie rods. go get an alignment and see if the other stuff is fixed.

DaMadScientist

iTrader: (10)

yea my car is currently at the shop getting the camber kit put in and adjusted as well as alignment so we'll see how that works out...as for the tie rod boots...all you need to do really is wack the strut with a hammer where the tie rod sit like 10 times and then TAP the tie rod out, and it should come out...when you put the nut back on and the bolt spins...use the OEM jack and wedge it between the body and the tie rod so it puts pressure on the tie rod and get the bolt back on

beadebaserr

iTrader: (7)

yeah, I didn't have to do any of that stuff. everything went so smooth and easy when I did it. it could have to do with keeping pretty much every component of my car, inside and out, virtually spotless. haha.

PunkingCivic

iTrader: (3)

Go get an alignment job done and then return if there is still an issue.
Let the shop diagnose the issue.

metalviper

iTrader: (13)

replace the tie rod separators first

karizzle

Ya for the tie rods at first we hammered the **** out of it and it didnt wanna pop out, so i use a tie rod seperator which was too small to get it out causing the boot to rip.

on the passenger side tho the seperator ripped the boot but didnt wanna take the tie rod out, ended up using a 'taper breaker'. worked mint