Ball Joint? Or Tie Rod End?
#1
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Rep Power: 0 Ball Joint? Or Tie Rod End?
Here is a lot of backround:
I got the ksport coilovers nearly a year ago. I suffered alignment issues because the retailer sent me the 01-03 set. This is a problem because I have an 05 Ex and the bolts are 16mm instead of 14mm. I didn't have the right tools and was told to do the enlarging myself. The holes were not exactly 16mm...so they coilovers were replaced. However I drove on the bad fronts for awhile, I noticed the coilovers had a tendence to blow my tie rods. The seal was always completely compressed and after a few weeks of being replaced would start to leak. Another thing I noticed is that my tires when of the ground could be wiggled. I dunno if this is due to the tie rod or the ball joint. Even with the fronts replaced my tie rod ends get a beating...still compressed still leaking. The wiggle is there a little, I can hear the left front creak when Im at a dead stop turning the wheel.
So which leads me to ask do you think this wiggle is due to a ball joint issue? or a tie rod issue?
Thanks
I got the ksport coilovers nearly a year ago. I suffered alignment issues because the retailer sent me the 01-03 set. This is a problem because I have an 05 Ex and the bolts are 16mm instead of 14mm. I didn't have the right tools and was told to do the enlarging myself. The holes were not exactly 16mm...so they coilovers were replaced. However I drove on the bad fronts for awhile, I noticed the coilovers had a tendence to blow my tie rods. The seal was always completely compressed and after a few weeks of being replaced would start to leak. Another thing I noticed is that my tires when of the ground could be wiggled. I dunno if this is due to the tie rod or the ball joint. Even with the fronts replaced my tie rod ends get a beating...still compressed still leaking. The wiggle is there a little, I can hear the left front creak when Im at a dead stop turning the wheel.
So which leads me to ask do you think this wiggle is due to a ball joint issue? or a tie rod issue?
Thanks
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Rep Power: 0 I suffer a simliar problem as u do... but my problem are my coilovers. Long story short, I bought EP3 coilovers for my car, but they were really meant for DC5s, as some of us might know, DC5 tie-rod ends have a bigger stud, so I was using my coilovers with civic tie-rod ends for a while... like a month, before I could get my hands on DC5 ones. So I went to get them installed and the person who installed it showed me a new problem with my car. Once the car was in the air, he can tilt the wheel in and out, in and out as in moving the wheel so the camber changes... we looked at the problem for a while, made sure everything was damn tight and we could still shake the wheel, as there should be no "give" at all.
We moved the wheel more and more... and we found out that it was moving at the base of the coilover, after the 2 bottom perches, so something was bent there.
So I'm guessing it's because I was using the wrong size tie-rod ends for the coilovers, and over that past month, I've caused damage to it because it was moving around while driving, especially while turning and hitting bumps... your problem sounds similar to mine, so u might want to do the test I did and see for yourself.
We moved the wheel more and more... and we found out that it was moving at the base of the coilover, after the 2 bottom perches, so something was bent there.
So I'm guessing it's because I was using the wrong size tie-rod ends for the coilovers, and over that past month, I've caused damage to it because it was moving around while driving, especially while turning and hitting bumps... your problem sounds similar to mine, so u might want to do the test I did and see for yourself.
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Rep Power: 0 Assuming your standing in a plane parrallel to that of the tire. Do you mean the tire was rotating around the X or the Y axis? My tires are rotating very very slighly around the Y axis.
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Rep Power: 268 you need to replace your tie rod ends. Ball joints should be fine. If you noticed grease leaking from the boot of the tie rod end, that already tells you that its been damaged or has warn out.
How did you mess up enlarging the holes from 14mm to 16mm? you just need to find a 16mm drill bit and call it a day. If the shop didnt want to do that for you and made you do it yourself, never take your car back there again.
How did you mess up enlarging the holes from 14mm to 16mm? you just need to find a 16mm drill bit and call it a day. If the shop didnt want to do that for you and made you do it yourself, never take your car back there again.
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Rep Power: 248 synapz i got the same problem you have but its on stock fronts. id otn know whats wrong there is an ear piercing sound whenever i drive my car when it moves now. a metal to metal grinding sound. the whole wheel along with rhe rotor moves like yours when in the air, you can change the camber so to speak. this has been a pretty major problem for me as it sounds really really bad so yeah. any suggestions?
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Rep Power: 0 @Boggie: this is what you're after.
http://www.aj-racing.com/catalog/pro...&cat=78&page=1
@caquinde: i'm not really sure if the problem is the same, because i installed totally new coilovers without using the right tie-rod ends... so i totally fuct them up in the end, weakened the bottom mount a whole alot because the strut arm was twisting back and forth... i would check ur tie-rod ends tho, check if the boots are torn and such.
http://www.aj-racing.com/catalog/pro...&cat=78&page=1
@caquinde: i'm not really sure if the problem is the same, because i installed totally new coilovers without using the right tie-rod ends... so i totally fuct them up in the end, weakened the bottom mount a whole alot because the strut arm was twisting back and forth... i would check ur tie-rod ends tho, check if the boots are torn and such.
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Rep Power: 0 Well I was forced to buy the DC5 tie rods....no one carries the EP3 in stock, and I can't wait 5 - 6 weeks to get it because my install window for all these parts is my christmas vacation.
I was told I can straight install these, and they will sit slightly high because the taper on a dc5 is larger than on a EP3 or EM2. Do you think I machine the taper to a larger size? or just install and go?
I was told I can straight install these, and they will sit slightly high because the taper on a dc5 is larger than on a EP3 or EM2. Do you think I machine the taper to a larger size? or just install and go?
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Rep Power: 0 The tie-rods on DC5s are slightly shorter than our civics... but you haven't noticed the other problem yet.
The tie-rod ends on the DC5 have bigger studs, that means you have to bore out the strut arm on your coilovers to fit these tie-rod ends in...
The tie-rod ends on the DC5 have bigger studs, that means you have to bore out the strut arm on your coilovers to fit these tie-rod ends in...
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Rep Power: 0 shorter shouldnt be a problem, because it should be still long enough to give u enough toe adjustments.
The RCAs have nothing to do with the tie-rod... its got to do with our "Upper-control arms" more... the ball-joint is hidden behind our front disk brakes, jack up the car and poke ur head under the brakes and you will see the ball-joint.
The RCAs have nothing to do with the tie-rod... its got to do with our "Upper-control arms" more... the ball-joint is hidden behind our front disk brakes, jack up the car and poke ur head under the brakes and you will see the ball-joint.
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Rep Power: 232 so this is what is comes down to?
EP3 coilovers: DIRECT bolt on, nothing required.
DC5 coilovers: new tie rods because stud hole is larger?
please correct me if i'm wrong, because from this thread, this is my understanding.... i plan on getting ep3 buddy club N+ thats why haha.
EP3 coilovers: DIRECT bolt on, nothing required.
DC5 coilovers: new tie rods because stud hole is larger?
please correct me if i'm wrong, because from this thread, this is my understanding.... i plan on getting ep3 buddy club N+ thats why haha.
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Rep Power: 0 so this is what is comes down to?
EP3 coilovers: DIRECT bolt on, nothing required.
DC5 coilovers: new tie rods because stud hole is larger?
please correct me if i'm wrong, because from this thread, this is my understanding.... i plan on getting ep3 buddy club N+ thats why haha.
EP3 coilovers: DIRECT bolt on, nothing required.
DC5 coilovers: new tie rods because stud hole is larger?
please correct me if i'm wrong, because from this thread, this is my understanding.... i plan on getting ep3 buddy club N+ thats why haha.
#19
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Rep Power: 0 Think of it this way, the difference between the J's racing ep3 and the dc5 tie rods is basically the end. However, the J's racing tie rod ends are hard to find I think. I definitely don't know a place that carries the extra beefy ones these tie rods come with.
If you can wait 4-6 weeks for special delivery go for the ep3s. Save yourself the time and hassel of enlarging the taper so the dc5 can fit. Im in a rush to have these done within the next 2 weeks, thats why I couldn't wait for the ep3s.
If you can wait 4-6 weeks for special delivery go for the ep3s. Save yourself the time and hassel of enlarging the taper so the dc5 can fit. Im in a rush to have these done within the next 2 weeks, thats why I couldn't wait for the ep3s.
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Rep Power: 232 lol sorry one more time.... say i buy the ep3 buddy club N+, then it will bolt right on directly just as if it were em2 suspension right??? hahaha thanks much props to you
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Rep Power: 0 if none of that works check the wheel bearings, i've replaced both of mine, one just last week, you can tell by taking the spindle arm off, lay it on the floor and try to move studs left to right without moving rest of armacher
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