Rep Power: 392

I have read about how good the megans are and whatnot. So I got a set of used ones. I have one question... they feel great during fast cornering, however, when I'm on the freeway or local streets it is EXTREMELY bouncey. Believe it or not, my stock shocks and my cut springs were less boucey than these expensive guys...

Let me know how you guys feel please.

 
Rep Power: 367

How hard or soft do you have them set? What's the compression on the springs, ie how much did you "preload" them (forgive me suspension gurus but this is the simplest way to describe it). Have you checked to make sure everything is in good condition? No fluid coming out of the shocks I hope.

 
Rep Power: 392

I think the reason is the "preload." How do I do adjust that? Is it the screw discs on the bottom of every strut? Because I set it so low that when the car is jacked up the spring moves loosely around...

I checked the shocks for leakage and I'm sure they are not blown. I set them about 3mm between the black dial and the chrome dial.

 
Rep Power: 423

If its a 3 locknut setup then you should have the 2 seats that hold the spring in place snug against the spring, but not compressing it when the car is jacked up.
That would be 0 preload, and thats where it should be.
Its bouncing because they're not so good as you think you paid money for, the dampers are crap and they're not keeping up with the spring rates.

 
Rep Power: 318

i love mine...i got h&Rs with tokico d-specs and the ride isnt bouncy at all...even the buddy club ones were bouncy when i rode in touge ****** car in the canyons

 
Rep Power: 392

I provided a picture

 
Rep Power: 0

do you see the bottom red line that you dru try movein the spring 1inch form the bottom lockin purch to the top smaller locking purch.

make sure you have the front coills even befor you do this...

let me know if you have any more Q's

 
Rep Power: 392

I don't understand... sorry

Are you saying move the middle screw disc only and leave the top one pushed up against the coil?

 
Rep Power: 0

Do you see the two screw disc's that hold the spring up. move thoses up untill theres about at 1inch gap between the very bottom screw (adjust's the ride hight)
and the smaller upper one (holds the spring in place) and then you should be fine, i have my prelode set to this and its not bumpy, and you know roads in cail suck *** lol

 
Rep Power: 392

Does this mean I have to sacrifice my drop for not being bouncy? SUCKS!

 
Rep Power: 367

I've got all my springs compressed around 3/4" or so on my Megans and I'm slammed, plus I could probably get another inch drop if I wanted to. I don't know how low you really want to go but I don't see you having to sacrifice height just to have these things set PROPERLY. The springs shouldn't be wiggling around when there is no load on the assembly.

If I may clarify for everyone else:
- the topmost perch is what compresses the spring, move that up until the spring is 3/4" shorter than when there is no compression
- the second perch locks against the top perch, keeping it from moving while driving thus keeping the spring compressed at all times
- with the top two perches locked together and the spring compressed you can twist the entire top part of the strut to screw into the bottom part until it is the right height (trial + error the first time you do it, but it doesn't take long)
- the bottom perch locks against the bottom part of the strut (where the crash bolts come through) to set the height

Just thought I'd add it considering the number of people who still don't know how to deal with these damper kits that have 3 rings on them.

 
Rep Power: 392

I think that is my problem. I need to do this part:

"-with the top two perches locked together and the spring compressed you can twist the entire top part of the strut to screw into the bottom part until it is the right height (trial + error the first time you do it, but it doesn't take long)
- the bottom perch locks against the bottom part of the strut (where the crash bolts come through) to set the height"

What I think is happening is that my struts are currently too long thuse when I set the ride height the springs are not compressed thus moving around, therefore giving me crap ride...

 
Rep Power: 367

Yep. Tighten it up, it fixed riced's EL when it had similar problems.

 
Rep Power: 257

I bought the same ones brand new, i love them!! they are perfect, not bouncy unless i turn then dampering down to like 4. they ride so nice, and i have mine as low as i can go w/o hitting everything... my car is so low that 1day i was drivein down the street, and a spray paint can laying down was in the road and it got stuck on my front bumper and was rolling as my car pushed it. i had 2 get out and move it.. lol..

 
Rep Power: 367

I got stuck on a friend's driveway last night with mine, they had ripped up the asphalt but left the sidewalk so I scraped my splitter going over, then I got caught a few inches back from the catalytic, made a horrible crunching noise. I think something's damaged but I'm too lazy to check.

 
Rep Power: 256

what setting would you guys recomend? harder in the front? rear a bit harder? or even setting all the way around? still playing around with it

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm just curious. But are the Megan Racing Coilovers rebuildable? Like with some of the Tein Coilovers? I'm just curious... Sorry if this was answered before...

 
Rep Power: 392

how do you figure how hard or soft you have them set at? There's no counter, hahah

Rebuilding... I'm not sure, I shall find that out for you soon.

Because I am having a hard time to screw the front passenger strut down. It's like stuck and I've tried WD40 on it. Any hints? If not then I will have to give Megan a called or even drive to their warehouse since its 6 mins away...

 
Rep Power: 0

there should be a counter on each strut on the top of it

 
Rep Power: 256

yeah there's a **** that goes Hard and Soft. just count how many clicks your setting them at. so i was wondering what kinda setting are people using with the megan coilovers

 
Rep Power: 367

I'm 4 clicks away from full hard currently, though I may soften it a bit this weekend cause moving has caused my back to freak out.

7thgenerasian, you don't really know how hard or stiff you are unless you turn the **** all the way in one direction (say, full hard), then count backwards as you click the **** towards soft. Write down the settings somewhere, adjust as you see fit, and you'll soon find the best settings for you. What part are you working on when you say you're screwing the front passenger down?

 
Rep Power: 0

hey i had a question, does anyone have this problem.

when i make a hard left or right turn(suspension is under compression) after the turn my steering wheel stays off center to the way i turned. Say i turned and made a hard left the steering wheel would stay to the left a little, do you guys get what im saying?

could someone help

thanks.

 
Rep Power: 256

maybe your steering is not center? alignment maybe? i could be wrong

 
Rep Power: 0

i know thats someting to do with my alignment but i dont know what it is camber bolts come loose when i turn i dont know.

does anyone else have any input

 
Rep Power: 0

You should check your camber bolts weekly, they come loose very easily.

My bet is on excessive toe-out. Are your front tires wearing funny? I set about half a degree of toe out on my E30, which gives great turn-in, but the wheel is a bit "numb" off-centre, and the wheel won't return to center on its own.

How close the wheel get to returning to dead center on it's own? If say you turn right, and you have to manually back out the steering all the way, you have an issue with your steering rack. If it does this, first check the fluid in the resevoir, and if it's really low, grab the rubber boots on the end of the rack (covering the inner tie rods) and squish them. If oil pukes out your steering rack is NFG.

Tomek

 
Rep Power: 0

yeah i do chex the camber bolts weekly, i went to honda today and order 2 stock bolts so thoses camber bolts are coming off friday.

When i turn the wheel to the right hard then im coming out of a turn the wheel goes back good but its off centerd like maybe 5-10 degrees, when i get to a stop light and sanp the steering wheel the other way the steering wheel be comes center agen.

 
Rep Power: 0

anyone

 
Rep Power: 367

*shrug* I'm pretty sure mine comes back pretty much all the way. I dunno about you but I like to have at least one hand on the wheel at all times so I guide it back to center. I'll try letting go of it after a corner then snapping it around like you said and if I don't crash into oncoming traffic or slide under a tractor trailer I'll let you know what I find.