Tokicos on their way!! Ha ha, lol!!......
11-12-2004
#91
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Originally Posted by nindoo
when you take a car for an alignment the wheel shop guys adjust your camber bolts and arms? What's wrong with the stock camber kits? are they non-adjustable?(Please bear with me I develop software and don't have really any experience around cars except for recently where I changed some shocks, sway bar....)
Stock there is Very little camber adjsutment, and thats just based on how much slop you can get out of the bolts holding the suspension together.
Basically, you loosen all the bolts on the suspension, and then push the top of the wheel in, and then tighten every thing back down... thats your stock camber adjustment.
11-12-2004
#92
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Rep Power: 270 The way SPC Cambolts work is by pushing the strut in with the eccentric part of the bolt. Thus, correcting camber. The round washer goes against the head of the bolt and its small tab locks into the upper strut hole.
To adjust for + or - cambers, simply rotate the bolt to push the strut in more till you get the desired camber reading, but this has to be done with a gauge, which I don't have.
To adjust for + or - cambers, simply rotate the bolt to push the strut in more till you get the desired camber reading, but this has to be done with a gauge, which I don't have.
11-12-2004
#93
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Rep Power: 0 yeah, on my tokicos, the pistons wouldnt move at all. I bet my OEM ones would be able to move though, but they would rebound. They werent blown. Like he said, the most they were able to adjust my camber, I believe was -3 to -2.9, and -2.9 to -2.8. Not very much at all. I was hoping for maybe a little more, but I didnt have any hopes up at all.
11-13-2004
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
The way SPC Cambolts work is by pushing the strut in with the eccentric part of the bolt. Thus, correcting camber. The round washer goes against the head of the bolt and its small tab locks into the upper strut hole.
To adjust for + or - cambers, simply rotate the bolt to push the strut in more till you get the desired camber reading, but this has to be done with a gauge, which I don't have.
To adjust for + or - cambers, simply rotate the bolt to push the strut in more till you get the desired camber reading, but this has to be done with a gauge, which I don't have.
Actually, now that I think of it.. its not the strut thats being pushed in or out but instead the steering knuckle. The strut and mounting hole plates are a solid one piece item, therefore it doesnt move. So it has to be the knuckle that moves in or out.
Not that it really matters but in case someone was wondering how it works.. there ya go...
11-13-2004
#96
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Rep Power: 0 def01tones, have fun waiting. It was hell on me. I just had my tokicos sitting in my room for like 2 weeks. Than I finally ordered my springs, and they came in like 46 hours. 2 kids puts a damper on finances. This morning at 2 my 21 mo old son went to the ER for being hella sick. Now we have a $1200 bill, and had to pay 109 for med's. Wish we had insurance. I hate medical bills. Sorry, but yeah, its gonna be such a nice improvement, youll love it, very worth my wait. can still make it up the driveway and over speedbumps, and Im lowered about 2 inches. The stiff struts help with that, or else Id be bouncing all over, and scraping my car up.
11-13-2004
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Originally Posted by flotsamm
Actually, now that I think of it.. its not the strut thats being pushed in or out but instead the steering knuckle. The strut and mounting hole plates are a solid one piece item, therefore it doesnt move. So it has to be the knuckle that moves in or out.
Not that it really matters but in case someone was wondering how it works.. there ya go...
Not that it really matters but in case someone was wondering how it works.. there ya go...
I guess sometimes bad things can bring up good thigs! Too many car accidents in Miami. I heard they were planning to make a track down here Zzyxz. That was great news!! If they do make one, oh boy!! I'm already thinking about Coilovers.
Last edited by cubanmike26; 11-13-2004 at 05:03 PM.
11-18-2004
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Originally Posted by nindoo
So CubanMike how the car running? How do you like the new improved set-up?
The ride is a lot more comfortable and still handles great on curves. It doesn't bounce any more in the back and feels almost, if not better than stock. I already ordered both Progress bars so I'll see if it handles even better with those.
Install shouldn't take too long. I looked under my car in the back and I think it'll be a simply removing the stock bar and adding the new one.
By the way Nindoo, did you use any clamps at all in the back when you installed your rear bar?
11-18-2004
#101
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Rep Power: 280 I didn't get the clamps with my kit I'm wondering if I need them. I just have the bushing brakets. I asked that ? in this forum but I didn't receive any response for that question.
11-18-2004
#102
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Rep Power: 270 Sorry, I probably didn't explain myself correctly. What I meant was if you had to use two clamps to hold the lower control arm attachments in place while removing the two bolts as Grey did on his DIY.
11-18-2004
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Rep Power: 280 I didn't get a chance to put the bar back but orignally I forgot totake those bolts our and put them through the progress tie bar. I'm putting it on with my friend I think I wont need the I hold the control arms in place as he puts the bolts through the bars and control arms. Or I might just the clamps on It doesn't look hard. If I were to do it alone I think I would definately use clamps.
11-18-2004
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Rep Power: 280 I thought he put the clamp to hold everything in place and keep the control arms from falling when he took out the two bolts that go through the center peice.
11-18-2004
#106
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Originally Posted by nindoo
I thought he put the clamp to hold everything in place and keep the control arms from falling when he took out the two bolts that go through the center peice.
11-19-2004
#108
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Originally Posted by AzNFoRLiFe
For 01 you have to use the clamps because you have to use the mounting bracket. In the picture the holes circled on the mounting bracket are already there in the center peice on models that come with a rear sway bar. So there is no need to use clamps cuz you never take out the bolts that hold the control arms.
11-19-2004
#109
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Originally Posted by AzNFoRLiFe
For 01 you have to use the clamps because you have to use the mounting bracket. In the picture the holes circled on the mounting bracket are already there in the center peice on models that come with a rear sway bar. So there is no need to use clamps cuz you never take out the bolts that hold the control arms.
Yeah but don't have to take out the bolt from the car that will go through the progress bar to the center peice, look at the bolt holding up the bar. If you were to take out that big bolt wouldn't you have to keep everythng in place? the bolt goes through the control arm to the other side through another metal bracket.
He removes the clapms after he mounts the tie bar, check it out.
Last edited by nindoo; 11-19-2004 at 07:33 AM.
11-19-2004
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
But how can you install the new bar without taking off the bolts that hold the control arm then?
magic dude, magic!
ABRA CA DABRA!
11-19-2004
#111
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
Hopefully, they should feel great with the Sportlines. Next week I should get both Progress bars as well, along with new endlinks. After that, it's just the rear strut bar and I should be done with the suspension. 
I even thought about an underbrace, but nahh...he he, that's too much, besides I hear they scrape a lot.
I even thought about an underbrace, but nahh...he he, that's too much, besides I hear they scrape a lot.
damn you should see mine!
11-19-2004
#112
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
But how can you install the new bar without taking off the bolts that hold the control arm then?
11-19-2004
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Originally Posted by AzNFoRLiFe
Because the holes are already there you dont need the mounting bracket. So there is no need to take out the bolts that hold the control arms
Basically its the hole you didn't circle in your pic there is the big bolt going through the tie, bar, through the center piece, through the control arm, througth another center piece .
11-19-2004
#114
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Originally Posted by nindoo
Buddy the hole that goes through the center stock piece tha goes through the control arms is on all the 7th gen vics even the ones with out the anti-roll bars. The ones that didn't come with the bar, need to have two holes drilled in the center piece on the sides so that we can mouth the bushing brackes.
11-19-2004
#115
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Originally Posted by AzNFoRLiFe
Im aware of the hole. But if you have a 7thgen with a sway bar from the factory you dont need to take out that bolt to put in a new bar. thats all im trying to say.
to attach the Anti-roll bar, you are correct. you dont need to remove those bolts.
to Properly attach the Tie bar that comes with the Progress anti-roll bar, you do need to remove those bolts.
11-19-2004
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
You guys are arguing about two different things.
to attach the Anti-roll bar, you are correct. you dont need to remove those bolts.
to Properly attach the Tie bar that comes with the Progress anti-roll bar, you do need to remove those bolts.
to attach the Anti-roll bar, you are correct. you dont need to remove those bolts.
to Properly attach the Tie bar that comes with the Progress anti-roll bar, you do need to remove those bolts.
11-19-2004
#117
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Originally Posted by AzNFoRLiFe
my mistake, i misread. nindoo your right about the tie bar sorry
No worries I should have explained myself better.
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