Can one correct +/- cambers at home or should I take my car to a shop?
Autocross Junky
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Originally Posted by trance4mer
what about when you autocross? what setup should you have? 0 toe and neg. camber? how should i setup my car for both street regular driving with an occasional once a month autocross?
For autocross you can play with some different settings to get the car to handle how you want...
Increase Negitive camber on the end of the car you want to grip more, and decrease it on the side you want to slip more..
For toe... Toe out on the rear tends to make the car oversteer more and Toe in on the rear will make the car understeer more. Toe out on the nose will help the car initiate turns... leading to better turnin. Toe in on the fron will make the car more stable in straight lines, but cause more understeer.
Most people here run 0 toe front and rear for the sake of tire longevity... as toe will eat tires Much quicker then camber. But if tire wear isnt an issue, you can play with toe settings to make for an very well handling car.
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^^^^ thanx... but what if i want to just have it set permanently... how should i have it set? i dont want to play around with setting yet. i rather get a little better at it then ill look into that. for now whats an ok setting for both street and autocross with not very much tire wear during everyday driving?
Autocross Junky
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0 toe Front and rear... Run as much Negitive camber as you can get on the nose (-1 to -2 would be ok for street and Autocross) and a bit less on the rear (-.75?)...
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
For toe... Toe out on the rear tends to make the car oversteer more and Toe in on the rear will make the car understeer more. Toe out on the nose will help the car initiate turns... leading to better turnin. Toe in on the fron will make the car more stable in straight lines, but cause more understeer.
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if you wanna do it like i do... the ghetto way, you don't have to buy all these fancy gadgets, but it works just the same...
1--garage...
2--string that can hold a lbs weight
3--metal object you can tie the string onto
4--tape measure ruler etc. etc.
1---tie the string to where it will be straing up and down dead center of the wheel, about maybe less than 5" from the wheel's rim...
2---tie the metal piece to the end of the string, not touching the floor
3---measure bottom and top rim of wheel... if they're both have even measurement from top and bottom rim you're Zeroed in... do the same to other wheels...
joy!!!
I prefer to have atleast half to an inch TOE IN, but then... it's just me...
1--garage...
2--string that can hold a lbs weight
3--metal object you can tie the string onto
4--tape measure ruler etc. etc.
1---tie the string to where it will be straing up and down dead center of the wheel, about maybe less than 5" from the wheel's rim...
2---tie the metal piece to the end of the string, not touching the floor
3---measure bottom and top rim of wheel... if they're both have even measurement from top and bottom rim you're Zeroed in... do the same to other wheels...
joy!!!
I prefer to have atleast half to an inch TOE IN, but then... it's just me...
Last edited by pnoyster2k1cvic; Mar 5, 2005 at 07:53 PM.
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i do alingments all the time. to adjust rear toe you must turn an ecentric bolt on the lower control arm. first loosen the 17mm bolt. then turn the ecentric bolt with a 24mm to your desired spec. the front you just turn the tie rods. loosen then locking bolt with 24mm and turn the tie rod with a 19mm. you also can adjust front camber a little bit with the stock bolts. rear camber on the other hand you need a kit for it.
My rear camber is -.6 L and -.13 R
So I need a camber kit to get that even?
I thought the Discount Tire Center ripped me off because they didn't adjust it.
Thanks for the info...good stuff!
So I need a camber kit to get that even?
I thought the Discount Tire Center ripped me off because they didn't adjust it.
Thanks for the info...good stuff!
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