FULL REVIEW ON D2 COILOVERS!(Updated 4.20.04)
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The Standard One
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the upper strut bar should work perfectly fine with the D2s
Here's a picture of what you need to drill
http://www.webpost.com/vnlilman/_myf...ges/camber.jpg
sorry i know kinda hard to see and its a different suspension but if i have time i'll try to get pics of the D2s and what you have to drill.
BUT as i said, if you get the EP3 ones you probably wont have to drill it. But you might want to get custom spring rates because their spring rates are different from ours. Ours normally come with 6kg up front 8kg rear, i think theirs come with 8kg front and 10kg rear. You can always use their spring rates but it'll cause for a stiffer ride, some people like it some people dont...
Here's a picture of what you need to drill
http://www.webpost.com/vnlilman/_myf...ges/camber.jpg
sorry i know kinda hard to see and its a different suspension but if i have time i'll try to get pics of the D2s and what you have to drill.
BUT as i said, if you get the EP3 ones you probably wont have to drill it. But you might want to get custom spring rates because their spring rates are different from ours. Ours normally come with 6kg up front 8kg rear, i think theirs come with 8kg front and 10kg rear. You can always use their spring rates but it'll cause for a stiffer ride, some people like it some people dont...
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From: Elk Grove/Sacramento/Davis, California, US
Rep Power: 0 Sorry but this is a newb question. I understand that the D2 coilovers need to be modified (drilled) to fit the 03 civics. Do the hayames also need to be modified? The Hayame thread was too large to search through. Thanks
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Rep Power: 0 Yes the hayames need to be drilled out to. Just take a 16mm drill bit and it will make the hole the perfect size. Just make sure when you drill out the top hole which is more oval shaped since it is used to fix camber, you still make it oval and not just have a bigger hole thru the smaller oval one, because then you can't fix camber.
Originally posted by JCiv03
Sorry but this is a newb question. I understand that the D2 coilovers need to be modified (drilled) to fit the 03 civics. Do the hayames also need to be modified? The Hayame thread was too large to search through. Thanks
Sorry but this is a newb question. I understand that the D2 coilovers need to be modified (drilled) to fit the 03 civics. Do the hayames also need to be modified? The Hayame thread was too large to search through. Thanks
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The Standard One
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Rep Power: 417 7gen03, I think you can used a tapered drill bit
SlammedBlueEM2, you can turn it 6 full times.
The front I have it 2 turns away from softest(I think i'm going to change it to 1 turn now that I put back my 18s)
The rear I have it turned 1 turn away from stiffest.
Yoyoio, you actually shouldnt use the dc5(i'm assuming thats what you meant) cause there are things that are slightly different BUT yes you should be able to use the EP3 ones. Only thing is they come with different spring rates(8kg/10kg) so your going to have to order custom spring rates(6kg/8kg) unless if you want to use the stiffer ones.
SlammedBlueEM2, you can turn it 6 full times.
The front I have it 2 turns away from softest(I think i'm going to change it to 1 turn now that I put back my 18s)
The rear I have it turned 1 turn away from stiffest.
Yoyoio, you actually shouldnt use the dc5(i'm assuming thats what you meant) cause there are things that are slightly different BUT yes you should be able to use the EP3 ones. Only thing is they come with different spring rates(8kg/10kg) so your going to have to order custom spring rates(6kg/8kg) unless if you want to use the stiffer ones.
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From: Carlisle, Pennsylvania, US
Rep Power: 0 Just would like to make a post about the D2's as well. I got these on last weekend. Both front and back are on the softest setting. I am currently riding on 205/40/17's and the ride is very impressive so far. I can still feel the bumps of the road a little b/c of the tires I believe, but other than that the ride is pretty smooth going over bumps which use to make me bottom out w/ my ground controls and stock struts. NOTE: after installation the front springs would creak and pop when turning slow or turning the wheel. This was fixed by tighting the 2nd locknut (the bottom one) good and tight up against the other one. This should be really tight or you'll still get a lil' creaking. (no biggie) just thought I would throw it out there for you guys. So far everything else has been ok and best of all the ride is smooth.
Also purchased mine through urban import, had no problems.
Also purchased mine through urban import, had no problems.
Originally posted by K7gcivic
Just would like to make a post about the D2's as well. I got these on last weekend. Both front and back are on the softest setting. I am currently riding on 205/40/17's and the ride is very impressive so far. I can still feel the bumps of the road a little b/c of the tires I believe, but other than that the ride is pretty smooth going over bumps which use to make me bottom out w/ my ground controls and stock struts. NOTE: after installation the front springs would creak and pop when turning slow or turning the wheel. This was fixed by tighting the 2nd locknut (the bottom one) good and tight up against the other one. This should be really tight or you'll still get a lil' creaking. (no biggie) just thought I would throw it out there for you guys. So far everything else has been ok and best of all the ride is smooth.
Also purchased mine through urban import, had no problems.
Just would like to make a post about the D2's as well. I got these on last weekend. Both front and back are on the softest setting. I am currently riding on 205/40/17's and the ride is very impressive so far. I can still feel the bumps of the road a little b/c of the tires I believe, but other than that the ride is pretty smooth going over bumps which use to make me bottom out w/ my ground controls and stock struts. NOTE: after installation the front springs would creak and pop when turning slow or turning the wheel. This was fixed by tighting the 2nd locknut (the bottom one) good and tight up against the other one. This should be really tight or you'll still get a lil' creaking. (no biggie) just thought I would throw it out there for you guys. So far everything else has been ok and best of all the ride is smooth.
Also purchased mine through urban import, had no problems.
also thank VNlilMAN for answering all da Q
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The Standard One
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j/p bro
I'm not sure cause i dumped it the first day I got it but i think its 1". Dont quote me on that tho.
j/p broI'm not sure cause i dumped it the first day I got it but i think its 1". Dont quote me on that tho.
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Is the only difference in installing these D2's as oppose to the Hayames, is the brake line brackets? Do you need to weld the brakets?
You had me all hyped up about the Hayames, but I'm guessing urban imports has the D2s in stock.
Why do you need to get an alignment after you change the suspension?
Why can't the world be a better place and let Urban Imports have the Hayames in stock!!!
Is the only difference in installing these D2's as oppose to the Hayames, is the brake line brackets? Do you need to weld the brakets?
You had me all hyped up about the Hayames, but I'm guessing urban imports has the D2s in stock.
Why do you need to get an alignment after you change the suspension?
Why can't the world be a better place and let Urban Imports have the Hayames in stock!!!
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The Standard One
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Rep Power: 417 Well not sure if you'd consider it part of installation but the way you adjust the height is different. And the D2s also dont come with rear top mounts so you need to use the stock ones. The front installation is pretty much the same except yeah, the brake line bracket. You dont need to weld it, just place the bracket on the bolt before you tighten it up.
UrbanImport just ran out of D2s as well. They should receive another shipment in like a month. I think they're getting the hayames really soon tho.
Anytime you lower the car, your going to have more negative camber. This is pretty much a guarentee. Also things arent going to be lined up exactly the way it was before you touched the suspension, this will also change the alignment. Especially when you put in new struts, the strut design isnt going to match the stock strut designed 100% so that will throw the alignment off big time depending on how different it is. But ya its just something that recommend anytime you touch the suspension ESPECIALLY when you change the shocks/struts.
UrbanImport just ran out of D2s as well. They should receive another shipment in like a month. I think they're getting the hayames really soon tho.
Anytime you lower the car, your going to have more negative camber. This is pretty much a guarentee. Also things arent going to be lined up exactly the way it was before you touched the suspension, this will also change the alignment. Especially when you put in new struts, the strut design isnt going to match the stock strut designed 100% so that will throw the alignment off big time depending on how different it is. But ya its just something that recommend anytime you touch the suspension ESPECIALLY when you change the shocks/struts.
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 So if I get the hayames and plan on dropping my car approximately 2 inches, do you think I'll need a camber kit, or I could do without one ?
Do you think its a bad idea for me to go the honda dealer to have my alignment done after I install the suspension? The reason I ask is because they owe me one free alignment.
Do you think its a bad idea for me to go the honda dealer to have my alignment done after I install the suspension? The reason I ask is because they owe me one free alignment.
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The Standard One
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Rep Power: 417 yeah you probably will need one for 2". Just the rear(since the fronts already come with it)
Eh you can try but they probably wont do it since its a lowered car... I went to discount tires and they hassled me saying it wouldnt fit on their rack. but ya doesnt hurt to try, only thing is they might give you a lecture and tell you how you voided your suspension warranty
Eh you can try but they probably wont do it since its a lowered car... I went to discount tires and they hassled me saying it wouldnt fit on their rack. but ya doesnt hurt to try, only thing is they might give you a lecture and tell you how you voided your suspension warranty
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 Will they also give me a lecture if I have negative camber?
There is a garage that modifes cars, I'll bring it to them, and I guess they will also let me know if the installation is good or not.
Is it better to drop it less and get use t the car first? Maybe an Inch and a half.
Anything I need to watch out for when setting up the kit? Adjustments and stuff?
There is a garage that modifes cars, I'll bring it to them, and I guess they will also let me know if the installation is good or not.
Is it better to drop it less and get use t the car first? Maybe an Inch and a half.
Anything I need to watch out for when setting up the kit? Adjustments and stuff?
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a garage that modifies cars will most likely not have a wheel alignment machine. You have to take it to a wheel shop most likely, but ask the speed shop where they take their cars. No one should give you a lecture about camber, just tell them to shut up and align the car to what specs you want. Just take it to Honda and say you want -.5 camber front, and -.75 camber rear and 0 toe all around. that isn't perfect OEM but it is well within specs.
put everything on, let it settle, see how you like the drop and adjust accordingly to fit your needs. A week or two with negative camber won't kill anything. Make all your adjustments before you get it aligned. Make sure there is NOT a lot of preload on the front or rear springs. Preload (changing the springs height) does not change the height of the car on Hayames. Turning the shock in and out of the mount changes the height
put everything on, let it settle, see how you like the drop and adjust accordingly to fit your needs. A week or two with negative camber won't kill anything. Make all your adjustments before you get it aligned. Make sure there is NOT a lot of preload on the front or rear springs. Preload (changing the springs height) does not change the height of the car on Hayames. Turning the shock in and out of the mount changes the height
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 Soemone told me I could keep the height stock, and get the alignment done and then adjust the height lower afterwards. Is he right?
What does it mean to have a a .5 camber in the front and a .75 camber in the rear. Does stock come with 0 camber?
What does it mean to have a a .5 camber in the front and a .75 camber in the rear. Does stock come with 0 camber?
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 Soemone told me I could keep the height stock, and get the alignment done and then adjust the height lower afterwards. Is he right?
What does it mean to have a a .5 camber in the front and a .75 camber in the rear. Does stock come with 0 camber?
Sorry for all the questions I am a novice.
What does it mean to have a a .5 camber in the front and a .75 camber in the rear. Does stock come with 0 camber?
Sorry for all the questions I am a novice.
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 No you can't keep stock height with coilovers. They automatically lower your car. No you don't set it high, get it aligned and then lower it. That is just dumb and tell that person he needs to go find out about vehicle dynamics. If you lower or raise you move the pivot points thus changing camber and toe. Every time you adjust the coils you should get an alignment, but it isn't necessary unless something is way out of wack or you changed the settings very severely.
yes factory settings is 0 camber, but 0 camber sucks for turning. -.5 and -.75 will give you a little inner tire wear but not much, but it will help with turning. why lower if your suspension settings suck right?
yes factory settings is 0 camber, but 0 camber sucks for turning. -.5 and -.75 will give you a little inner tire wear but not much, but it will help with turning. why lower if your suspension settings suck right?
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From: Washington DC
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7gen03, Glad you brought that up. I've been meaning to add it to my review... They meant to make it like that. Reason being when you autocross you usually want as much negative camber as well as POSITIVE CASTER. The way the plates are positioned you get two in one basically. If you want proof here it is..
"If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments."
taken from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...neral/align.jsp
I'll go further in depth later...
__________________________________________________ __________
Thanks for your reply, regarding your question about ES1, actually our
pillowball top mount is designed not only for adjust camber but also
including adjust caster, according the pictures that you sent to me,
this is
correct , the newest and also the best setting , such as BMW, BENZ,
and
porsche. The caster angle will be obliquer than normal street purpose,
and
also the veer of steering will be more accurate.
"If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments."
taken from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...neral/align.jsp
I'll go further in depth later...
__________________________________________________ __________
Thanks for your reply, regarding your question about ES1, actually our
pillowball top mount is designed not only for adjust camber but also
including adjust caster, according the pictures that you sent to me,
this is
correct , the newest and also the best setting , such as BMW, BENZ,
and
porsche. The caster angle will be obliquer than normal street purpose,
and
also the veer of steering will be more accurate.
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 Regardless of the car changing the camber will change the toe, it just happens that the new steering arm makes it more dramatic.
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The Standard One
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Rep Power: 417 I wonder if changing the caster helps out with the toe issue? example if positive camber gives you toe-in would positive caster give you toe-out, thus helping that out a bit?
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 iJudging from the stock suspension Negative caster will give you toe in and positive caster will give you toe out, like you said. Unfortunately we don't have much room for caster play unless you get a caster plate and possibly cut your strut housing. hmmm limitless opportunities to mess with this, just no $$, time or track time. I don't know how much caster will help though. Someone will have to try it.
Autocross Junky
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Rep Power: 380 ^^^ Just remember Robbclark and Boilermaker, if you want to remain in STS The center clearance hole may not be modified.
Rule 17.8 Section C.
other wise, How many people here acutally race their car or even care how much camber/caster/toe they have. most will just have the car aligned with in factory specs and call it a day. The rest of us will just deal with the little problems because we want that last tenth on the track.
Rule 17.8 Section C.
other wise, How many people here acutally race their car or even care how much camber/caster/toe they have. most will just have the car aligned with in factory specs and call it a day. The rest of us will just deal with the little problems because we want that last tenth on the track.
