jpan_home

iTrader: (2)

Just to get this out of the way: I'm poor so I'm planning to get other people's left-over OEM suspension for my civic, esp since I hear they're good... can't afford the Hayames and the rest of them...

Now, I've read that the EP3 suspension should bolt right on the EM2? So that means I can take the springs and struts and directly put them into the car without needing some sort of, well, "upper mount" (don't know what that is...) ? In this case, should I replace both the struts and springs, or just struts? Not quite sure what the difference is between the EM2 and EP3 springs...

What about the DC5 suspension? I hear that some modification will be needed, but what sorts?

And in addition to the springs/struts, what else will i need? New control arms? Tie-rods? What else?

Thanks a lot!

SlammedBlueEM2

iTrader: (2)

The EP3 suspension will be fine. On the other hand, I cannot account for the 04s since they're now 5-lugged & perhaps no different than the DC5 suspension on the entry model RSX.

DC5 suspension requires new tie rods or shaved stock tie rod ends for the front and front axles. Not really what you'd want to do on a budget.

Anyone's free to add/correct me. I'm sleepy.

GaryC17

What about the front strut bolts that bolt on to the knuckle arms ? Are the sizes the same ? If the EP3 uses a larger bolt, is it safe to use the smaller 14mm bolt from that of the EM to hold the strut in place ? Wouldn't the strut have some free play in movement ? It will not be possible to use the 16mm bolt since the bolt will not go through the knuckle arm. Please enlighten.

Zzyzx

another issue your going to run in to is spring length, the Ep3 and DC5 have longer springs in the front and shorter springs on the rear..... meaning your car will sit funny.

HondaLuver

iTrader: (17)

just get suspention for our caarss

jpan_home

iTrader: (2)

Hmm... I thought that, because our cars are FWD, we *would* want longer springs up front and shorter springs at the back:
1) longer springs in front to keep the tires on the ground when launching so we don't sit and spin all day long
2) shorter springs at the back to keep the weight from shifting to the back too readily during lauching again...

Zzyzx

^^ um not really. Its not a matter of spring lengths, its a matter of spring rates. and controling what you are describing (weight transfer) is actually controled by the shocks and their valving.

For drag raceing, to slow the transfer of weight off the front tires do this.

If your shocks have both Rebound and compression adjustiblity (KW V3, Moton)
Stiffen the Reboud rates on the front shocks and reduce the compression rates of the rear.

If your shocks only have compression adjustiblity (Pretty much all adjustible shocks)

Reduce the comprssion settings on the rear.

Not sure what this will do to your street handling, but it should help you launch a bit better.

Other wise you can use adjustible shocks to tune your transitional cornering chariteristics.........


To clarify a bit on the higher spring rates, Youd run stiffer springs because it forces the tires to act opon the whole chassis (2500LBS) in order to get the wheels to hop rather then just the unsprung wieght on that corner. = Less wheel hop

jpan_home

iTrader: (2)

Holy cow of suspension info!

Thanks a lot for your help again! Always good to hear from someone with experience!

btw, just called Honda dealership and they told me that EP3 suspension won't bolt on to EM2... said that I'd have to hack it up and it'd be better if I simply get aftermarket parts.

What a pain. Oh well.

Thanks again!

ViNRoCk8

iTrader: (2)

what he said.....but get suspension, not suspention....lol