click, click, click! (oh no!!)
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click, click, click! (oh no!!)
humm.....
i've done alot of searching, but i have not found a good answer....
i lowered my car, (-1.6) and installed koni yellows.
i cut mcphersion strut at exactly 40mm. for install.
problem:
whenever i turn hard left, (all the way left) i get a clicking sound when i straighten the wheels out. sound kind-of-like CV joint, but it's not.
i don't know what's clicking, i might need a alignment from strut/spring install, (pulls slightly to the right) but i don't know if that will fix the problem.
anyone else had problems like this when lowering their car?
anyone have a sollution to my nightmare??
thanks,
~civic-king
i've done alot of searching, but i have not found a good answer....
i lowered my car, (-1.6) and installed koni yellows.
i cut mcphersion strut at exactly 40mm. for install.
problem:
whenever i turn hard left, (all the way left) i get a clicking sound when i straighten the wheels out. sound kind-of-like CV joint, but it's not.
i don't know what's clicking, i might need a alignment from strut/spring install, (pulls slightly to the right) but i don't know if that will fix the problem.
anyone else had problems like this when lowering their car?
anyone have a sollution to my nightmare??
thanks,
~civic-king
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
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Well with coilovers, it usually means the lower mounting bracket is loose. So go make sure that the 2 bolts are cranked to 116 lb-ft and make sure the Koni is firmly bolted into the housing. If its still clicking, undo and re-tighten the tie rod bolt, torque it to 40 ft-lb. Then check and see if the spring is binding or your tire is rubbing on something.
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Sounds like you didnt index your struts correctly when reassembling. I just installed my Koni's two weeks ago and when I was turning right, the suspension would make a popping noise. You have to make sure when your reassembling the strut, that the two triangles are lined up with the knuckle mounting area, or hole on the bottom perch. The first thing you do is make sure the spring is seated in the bottom perch correctly. Then the first triangle on part 10 needs to be lined up with the second triangle on part 7. After these triangles pointing towards each other, there is a hole on the bottom perch(the red circle) that is directly centered below the knuckle mounting area. Align both the triangles with this hole and tighten the top strut bolt, then remove your coil spring compressors slowly while keeping everything centered. It is critical that these arrows be aligned with the bottom perch hole or knuckle mounting area. If they arent, the upper perch wont be flush when installed and the spring will not be seated properly inside the rubber isolator. If this happens, your spring will try to spin causing popping noises when turning and part 10 wont be flush inside the strut housing.
Here's a pic of what I mean. See the red triangles on part 10 and 7? The MUST align with the red circle(hole on the bottom perch) or the knuckle mounting area.

While your at it make sure that the Koni bolt on the bottom of the strut is torqued to 55 lbs-ft.
For the two knuckle pinch bolts, they should be torqued to 76 lbs-ft, not 116. For the tie rod nut, torque it to 32 lbs-ft not 40. This is according to my Helms manual. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions.
Here's a pic of what I mean. See the red triangles on part 10 and 7? The MUST align with the red circle(hole on the bottom perch) or the knuckle mounting area.

While your at it make sure that the Koni bolt on the bottom of the strut is torqued to 55 lbs-ft.
For the two knuckle pinch bolts, they should be torqued to 76 lbs-ft, not 116. For the tie rod nut, torque it to 32 lbs-ft not 40. This is according to my Helms manual. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions.
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