JIC install review+initial impressions (pictures)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 
A lot of the parts on the JICs are 6061-T6. so that stuff won't rust. All you gotta do is keep an eye on it and go over it with a little scotchbrite and some grease every so often. I don't anticipate it being too difficult keeping it under control.
Awww come on now, you know I'm messing with ya
I didn't steal the sig! i asked you to make one because you are better at the photoshop thing than i am! mean people! blah
Awww come on now, you know I'm messing with ya 
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 I'm sure the shocks fit. It may require changing the spring rates. They come as 9/10 kg/mm (503/559 lb/in). You may need to change it to 8/10 or 9/11 to account for the heavy sedan ***.
I don't know. Talk to JIC USA, they can probably help you figure out what would work.
I don't know. Talk to JIC USA, they can probably help you figure out what would work.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Ok... I'm posting for reference...
Stock (last friday)
JIC (today)
And I'd say my alignment is a hair off
I finally wound up with the shocks set at 5/15 in the front and 10/15 in the back. Seems to work pretty well for not smacking me around.
Stock (last friday)
JIC (today)
And I'd say my alignment is a hair off
I finally wound up with the shocks set at 5/15 in the front and 10/15 in the back. Seems to work pretty well for not smacking me around.
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 so zzyzx...custom konis are what...around $650 plus a $300 set of camber plates, plus $130 for springs? That is around $1100?
Autocross Junky
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Rep Power: 380 Not if you build the camber 
plates.... $40 per spherical bering (80) and about $50 in other meterials. so about 130 total for the plates. Great thing about racing with the SCCA, you meet all sorts of people that are willing to and have the equipment to fabricate just about anything. and I allready have the springs. (Came with the car: Eibach)
Plus I'm pretty much done with the civic, as I found a new ride for autocross. an 89 Si, that the owner wants me to co-drive at local and national events (solo 2 and Pro Solo) so the 7th gen will probably not see as much autocross use.
plates.... $40 per spherical bering (80) and about $50 in other meterials. so about 130 total for the plates. Great thing about racing with the SCCA, you meet all sorts of people that are willing to and have the equipment to fabricate just about anything. and I allready have the springs. (Came with the car: Eibach)Plus I'm pretty much done with the civic, as I found a new ride for autocross. an 89 Si, that the owner wants me to co-drive at local and national events (solo 2 and Pro Solo) so the 7th gen will probably not see as much autocross use.
Autocross Junky
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Rep Power: 380 I would love nothing more to have a set of Jic magic, Tein Flex, or KW V3s, but I cant justify spending almost 2 grand on suspension right now. (saving for a house). So i'm going at it piecemeal, I have the springs (Not the best but they are comfortable on the street and handle pretty good) I have my anti rollbars pretty sorted out for now (Will eventually get an adjustible 22mm rear bar) the only thing I really need is shocks. the rest of my suspension $$$ is going to tires.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: monkton,md
Rep Power: 0 Those springs rates seem too stiff. Can you hold a turn on an imperfect surface, or is it skittish? Also, say you blow out a strut, how do you go about getting them rebuilt.
Right know, I am torn between the kw v2's and the Jic's. Leaning towards kw's because of the stainless bodies and the warranty.
Right know, I am torn between the kw v2's and the Jic's. Leaning towards kw's because of the stainless bodies and the warranty.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Why do they seem too stiff? Some of the EP3 guys are switching the rears to 12kg/mm springs because they're not stiff enough. They can be as stiff as they want, as long as the shocks can keep up. Drive on them first, then make your judgements. The car doesn't bounce at all through turns. They're racing coils.... something tells me that bounding over curbs at race tracks WAS accounted for in the design. A little dip won't hurt anything. They hold on hard enough to make the stock tires seem almost good. Throw a set of decient ones on... holy ****. Glue would be the best description I can think of. With my Yokohamas on, I can't seem to find a way to break the car loose. JICs are rebuildable, but the shocks are good for 20kg/mm springs... so if they go, it'll be a defect which is warrantied or WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY down the line.
Edit: wording
Edit: wording
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Feb 13, 2004 at 07:07 AM.
Originally posted by Boilermaker1
The hole in the steering arm is not straight. It has an angle in on it. If you extended it out a very long way, it would become a cone. When you put the bolt into the hole and torque it down, it friction locks them together because the tapers engage and keep them together. Same principle as cone seat lugnuts on wheels.
And I think there will be 4 silver coupes running JICs when all is said and done this spring.
The hole in the steering arm is not straight. It has an angle in on it. If you extended it out a very long way, it would become a cone. When you put the bolt into the hole and torque it down, it friction locks them together because the tapers engage and keep them together. Same principle as cone seat lugnuts on wheels.
And I think there will be 4 silver coupes running JICs when all is said and done this spring.
I just got a JIC seat last week too. I should be installing the seatin a few
weeks. Midterms and finals are occupying my time right now.
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From: San Jose, California, US
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From: Hell with Sand
Rep Power: 291 Originally posted by CivicMexicano
$480 dollar diference would not be a good price range,
$480 dollar diference would not be a good price range,
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From: Hell with Sand
Rep Power: 291 Originally posted by slowvic
Those springs rates seem too stiff. Can you hold a turn on an imperfect surface, or is it skittish? Also, say you blow out a strut, how do you go about getting them rebuilt.
Right know, I am torn between the kw v2's and the Jic's. Leaning towards kw's because of the stainless bodies and the warranty.
Those springs rates seem too stiff. Can you hold a turn on an imperfect surface, or is it skittish? Also, say you blow out a strut, how do you go about getting them rebuilt.
Right know, I am torn between the kw v2's and the Jic's. Leaning towards kw's because of the stainless bodies and the warranty.
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 168
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From: monkton,md
Rep Power: 0 Liking the JIC's more now. I just talked to my dad, a coatings engineer about the 6061-T6 bodies on the JIC's. He said stainless will never rust but 6061 comes damn close. After a simulated 3000 hours of exposure, 6061 had no corrosion.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 The car handles great. Its a little rough on shitty pavement, but nothing I can't live with. The car is back in the shop getting re-aligned cuz the stupid ******* used the camber plates to align it, so I went back and yelled at them for being stupid. Should get it back with a set of zeroed plates today. Other than that, everything's awesome. Just need to make my cornerweighting appointment.
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From: Hell with Sand
Rep Power: 291 Originally posted by Boilermaker1
the stupid ******* used the camber plates to align it, Should get it back with a set of zeroed plates today. Just need to make my cornerweighting appointment.
the stupid ******* used the camber plates to align it, Should get it back with a set of zeroed plates today. Just need to make my cornerweighting appointment.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Camber plates = for me to adjust at the track. The alignment shop should NOT touch them.
Camber bolts= not for me to touch, for the alignment guys to mess with.
They did the alignment with the camber plates, so I had to take it back and explain to them how to do an alignment the right way. I hate dealing with people who are less than half as smart as I am... this is the absolute last time I'm taking it to the shop for anything short of transmission failure. Every fuggin time I take it in, it needs to go back because its wrong.
Camber bolts= not for me to touch, for the alignment guys to mess with.
They did the alignment with the camber plates, so I had to take it back and explain to them how to do an alignment the right way. I hate dealing with people who are less than half as smart as I am... this is the absolute last time I'm taking it to the shop for anything short of transmission failure. Every fuggin time I take it in, it needs to go back because its wrong.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Thankfully yes. I just took the car out (after I loosened and re-tightened everything, because naturally, they're too stupid to know how to set the torque with an impact gun, so I did it by hand). Took the Sis off, put the OZs on. It's borderline incredible. I still have some dialing to do. Pushed the tire pressures up, bumped the dampers up, car drives on rails. No fidget, it doesn't step out, I wasn't really pushing hard enough to powerslide (I don't like hitting trees). Surprisingly, I never thought I'd say this, it rides better on 17's than it does on 15s. Thats a first. If I really had to guess the reason... its the extra 40mm of tire on each corner. I think it just adds some cushion laterally and it needs that. It follows the road a little more, but nothing unmanagable.
A couple things...
you NEED front camber bolts. The holes in the JICs don't allow for any adjustment.
A hidden plus to the camber plates is when you adjust them negative, it also pushes your toe out because the tie rod length limits the movement of the back of the strut. Sooooo you get more camber AND better turn-in. Its either an oversight that turned out to be good, or someone thought waaaaay too hard and got it right.
A couple things...
you NEED front camber bolts. The holes in the JICs don't allow for any adjustment.
A hidden plus to the camber plates is when you adjust them negative, it also pushes your toe out because the tie rod length limits the movement of the back of the strut. Sooooo you get more camber AND better turn-in. Its either an oversight that turned out to be good, or someone thought waaaaay too hard and got it right.
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