JIC install review+initial impressions (pictures)
#1
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Rep Power: 401 JIC install review+initial impressions (pictures)
Necessary Tools:
10, 12, 14(extended), 17, 2x19mm sockets
Various extensions
Torque wrench
Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Remover
A cargo strap, roof strap or something else that will not stretch under weight
Jack and at least 2 stands
Anti-Sieze Lube
White Lithium Grease
Lots of time
Hydrogen Peroxide, Band-Aids and Triple Antibiotic Ointment
The install goes VERY smoothly. The JICs pretty much drop right in.
Quick run through of the install:
Jack the front and put it on stands.
Remove the wheel
Remove the brake line and ABS brackets (12mm, 10mm)
Unbolt the tie rod end (pull cotter pin, 17mm bolt, Tie rod popper)
Loosen but do not remove the top mount (14mm extended)
Use cargo strap to support brake/hub assembly. Use the jack to hold it up as well. It is HEAVY. Strap the cargo strap to something that will not move and can support weight (I used the strut bar). If you don’t do this, the brake will fall outwards and you can pull the axle out of the transmission.
Put a rag or something over the CV joint so if the strut falls when you remove it, it won’t tear the boot.
Undo the bottom mount bolts (2x 19mm)
The knuckle will fall when you release the bolts. Be sure to keep it somewhat upright.
Undo the top mount all the way, pull the strut out from the bottom.
Toss it, get the JIC out. You need to move the outer camber plate bolts in 1 set of holes to get it into the upper mount of the car. Set the plate to 0, set your damper where you want it and make sure the spring is tight (but not preloaded). Just make sure the height right to left is even and put it in the car. Don’t worry about drop heights yet.
Push the upper mount in, make sure you get all 3 studs in (the pillowball makes it a little tough cuz it wiggles). Bolt it in.
Then do the lower mounts. Push UP and IN on the hub, those bolts control your camber.
Put the tie rod back in, don’t forget the cotter pin
Bolt the brake lines back on.
Torques (in ft-lb):
Upper bolts- 33
Lower mount bolts- 116
Tie rod – 40
Brake brackets – 16
Go to the rears:
Jack it up etc…..
If you’re doing camber kits, remove the UCA (17mm)
Then remove the lower bolt on the shock (17mm)
Put the jack under the A-arm to hold it up. The sway bar will hold it, but extra support is good.
Go in the trunk undo the 2 upper mount bolts (14mm extended)
Pull the strut out.
Prep the rear JIC the same as the front.
Put it in. The lower mount has an offset bushing in it. It goes in with the JIC logo facing INWARD. Bolt the lower bolt in.
Use the jack to raise the shock into the upper mount and hold it, bolt the uppers in.
Put the camber kit on using the supplied directions and lots of anti-sieze on the bushing
Torques:
Upper mounts – 43
Lower mount- 45
Camber kit (all 3 bolts) – 45
Set the heights with the spanner wrenches supplied with the coils. Use the directions that come with them.
Install took about 6 hours, then another 4 to set them.
Initial impressions:
The car rides much firmer than stock, its no surprise with 503/559 lb/ft springs. The dampers keep up though. It isn’t really harsh. It doesn’t swallow bumps like your grandmas Buick, but it doesn’t slam you either. Just hits them, it bounces and recovers. Just like a good set of shocks should. It never gets floaty coming out of a bump either… glued down. Body roll has been greatly reduced, it does a great job of trying to throw me out of the seat instead. The car handles like its on rails. Just point, it goes.
Right now it’s a little light on the steering feel because my alignment isn’t done. The car tracks straight, its even side to side, but off. Got some toe in issues, hopefully tonight I’ll shorten the tie rod a little and crank at least some of it out. I’ll take it in for an alignment later this week.
Overall WELL worth the money.
Ok… ask questions.
10, 12, 14(extended), 17, 2x19mm sockets
Various extensions
Torque wrench
Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Remover
A cargo strap, roof strap or something else that will not stretch under weight
Jack and at least 2 stands
Anti-Sieze Lube
White Lithium Grease
Lots of time
Hydrogen Peroxide, Band-Aids and Triple Antibiotic Ointment
The install goes VERY smoothly. The JICs pretty much drop right in.
Quick run through of the install:
Jack the front and put it on stands.
Remove the wheel
Remove the brake line and ABS brackets (12mm, 10mm)
Unbolt the tie rod end (pull cotter pin, 17mm bolt, Tie rod popper)
Loosen but do not remove the top mount (14mm extended)
Use cargo strap to support brake/hub assembly. Use the jack to hold it up as well. It is HEAVY. Strap the cargo strap to something that will not move and can support weight (I used the strut bar). If you don’t do this, the brake will fall outwards and you can pull the axle out of the transmission.
Put a rag or something over the CV joint so if the strut falls when you remove it, it won’t tear the boot.
Undo the bottom mount bolts (2x 19mm)
The knuckle will fall when you release the bolts. Be sure to keep it somewhat upright.
Undo the top mount all the way, pull the strut out from the bottom.
Toss it, get the JIC out. You need to move the outer camber plate bolts in 1 set of holes to get it into the upper mount of the car. Set the plate to 0, set your damper where you want it and make sure the spring is tight (but not preloaded). Just make sure the height right to left is even and put it in the car. Don’t worry about drop heights yet.
Push the upper mount in, make sure you get all 3 studs in (the pillowball makes it a little tough cuz it wiggles). Bolt it in.
Then do the lower mounts. Push UP and IN on the hub, those bolts control your camber.
Put the tie rod back in, don’t forget the cotter pin
Bolt the brake lines back on.
Torques (in ft-lb):
Upper bolts- 33
Lower mount bolts- 116
Tie rod – 40
Brake brackets – 16
Go to the rears:
Jack it up etc…..
If you’re doing camber kits, remove the UCA (17mm)
Then remove the lower bolt on the shock (17mm)
Put the jack under the A-arm to hold it up. The sway bar will hold it, but extra support is good.
Go in the trunk undo the 2 upper mount bolts (14mm extended)
Pull the strut out.
Prep the rear JIC the same as the front.
Put it in. The lower mount has an offset bushing in it. It goes in with the JIC logo facing INWARD. Bolt the lower bolt in.
Use the jack to raise the shock into the upper mount and hold it, bolt the uppers in.
Put the camber kit on using the supplied directions and lots of anti-sieze on the bushing
Torques:
Upper mounts – 43
Lower mount- 45
Camber kit (all 3 bolts) – 45
Set the heights with the spanner wrenches supplied with the coils. Use the directions that come with them.
Install took about 6 hours, then another 4 to set them.
Initial impressions:
The car rides much firmer than stock, its no surprise with 503/559 lb/ft springs. The dampers keep up though. It isn’t really harsh. It doesn’t swallow bumps like your grandmas Buick, but it doesn’t slam you either. Just hits them, it bounces and recovers. Just like a good set of shocks should. It never gets floaty coming out of a bump either… glued down. Body roll has been greatly reduced, it does a great job of trying to throw me out of the seat instead. The car handles like its on rails. Just point, it goes.
Right now it’s a little light on the steering feel because my alignment isn’t done. The car tracks straight, its even side to side, but off. Got some toe in issues, hopefully tonight I’ll shorten the tie rod a little and crank at least some of it out. I’ll take it in for an alignment later this week.
Overall WELL worth the money.
Ok… ask questions.
#3
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Like I said...Pimp...I am going to adjust my toe-in right now, and I am going to turn the tie rod upside down because I heard that can help solve the problem...let you know how it goes.
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Rep Power: 394 *drools* Jics.... so sexy...
flipping the tie rod upside down isnt going to fix the toe problem.
Is it a toe in problem or toe out? cause my toe was really badd too but they were able to fix it with the stock tie rods
flipping the tie rod upside down isnt going to fix the toe problem.
Is it a toe in problem or toe out? cause my toe was really badd too but they were able to fix it with the stock tie rods
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Rep Power: 394 ey boiler, where did you get the pitarm remover? do you know if the one from autozone would work? i used to use the tie rod seperator but those rip the boots
edit: nevermind autozone has that kind now...
edit: nevermind autozone has that kind now...
#9
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Rep Power: 401 I bought the arm popper from AutoZone... think it was $10.
The plates allow for 2 more degrees in addition to what you set the alignment at.... so basically, I'll get -3.5 degrees if I so desire.
Now.... I just took it out and actually "drove" the car. Holy **** are the first 2 words that come to mind. The car rides on rails, there is no hesitation at all. You turn the wheel, it goes... like a dart. I just can't wait until I have my alignment set on friday to a more corner biased setup.... then its really gonna get fun. I'm loving these things.
As far as straight down the road, it doesn't slam at all. VERY controlled, almost stock but stiffer (obviously) and even on horrible roads, it stays planted. So its the perfect cross of daily driver and race car... just like I wanted it to be.
The plates allow for 2 more degrees in addition to what you set the alignment at.... so basically, I'll get -3.5 degrees if I so desire.
Now.... I just took it out and actually "drove" the car. Holy **** are the first 2 words that come to mind. The car rides on rails, there is no hesitation at all. You turn the wheel, it goes... like a dart. I just can't wait until I have my alignment set on friday to a more corner biased setup.... then its really gonna get fun. I'm loving these things.
As far as straight down the road, it doesn't slam at all. VERY controlled, almost stock but stiffer (obviously) and even on horrible roads, it stays planted. So its the perfect cross of daily driver and race car... just like I wanted it to be.
#10
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Rep Power: 357 dam it! I just realized, your autocross season hasn't started yet... and you are running on new coilovers, and new 15's with azenis..... I think your going to supprise the hell out of a lot of guys running STS with you. now I'm all sad, I wish i could have -3.5 deg camber..
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Rep Power: 401 Originally posted by Zzyzx
dam it! I just realized, your autocross season hasn't started yet... and you are running on new coilovers, and new 15's with azenis..... I think your going to supprise the hell out of a lot of guys running STS with you. now I'm all sad, I wish i could have -3.5 deg camber..
dam it! I just realized, your autocross season hasn't started yet... and you are running on new coilovers, and new 15's with azenis..... I think your going to supprise the hell out of a lot of guys running STS with you. now I'm all sad, I wish i could have -3.5 deg camber..
The off season is sometimes a very good thing.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; 02-09-2004 at 06:42 PM.
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Rep Power: 357 Our first event was suppose to be at the end of February (Two day event too), but it got caned by the speedway (Because they are over charging ******, they increaced lot rental prices by 50% over last year)
so now our first event isnt untill the end of March...
so now our first event isnt untill the end of March...
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Ok guys a quick update, I turned the tie-rod ends upside down and no more tie-rod problems.
So there's a nice fix for those wanting to put RSX Suspension on our cars..
And Boilermaker...how bout them JICs eh?
A to those that believe.
So there's a nice fix for those wanting to put RSX Suspension on our cars..
And Boilermaker...how bout them JICs eh?
A to those that believe.
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Rep Power: 291 Originally posted by Zzyzx
Our first event was suppose to be at the end of February (Two day event too), but it got caned by the speedway (Because they are over charging ******, they increaced lot rental prices by 50% over last year)
so now our first event isnt untill the end of March...
Our first event was suppose to be at the end of February (Two day event too), but it got caned by the speedway (Because they are over charging ******, they increaced lot rental prices by 50% over last year)
so now our first event isnt untill the end of March...
WOW..you guys start early!!! My first SUMMER event isn't until APRIL 17th!!!!
We've got two more Winter series events, Feb. 22nd and March sometime (TBA).
Do you guys not have a winter series?
#16
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Rep Power: 401 Re: ...
Originally posted by Hwoody77
Ok guys a quick update, I turned the tie-rod ends upside down and no more tie-rod problems.
So there's a nice fix for those wanting to put RSX Suspension on our cars..
And Boilermaker...how bout them JICs eh?
A to those that believe.
Ok guys a quick update, I turned the tie-rod ends upside down and no more tie-rod problems.
So there's a nice fix for those wanting to put RSX Suspension on our cars..
And Boilermaker...how bout them JICs eh?
A to those that believe.
On a note for dragin... I've got no tie rod issues with the EP3 kit.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; 02-10-2004 at 09:43 AM.
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Rep Power: 268 nice.... i didnt think there was any issue's with em... still waiting on my damn camber kit, till i drope mine in..
how many silver cpe's on this board are runnin the jic's???
how many silver cpe's on this board are runnin the jic's???
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Rep Power: 401 The hole in the steering arm is not straight. It has an angle in on it. If you extended it out a very long way, it would become a cone. When you put the bolt into the hole and torque it down, it friction locks them together because the tapers engage and keep them together. Same principle as cone seat lugnuts on wheels.
And I think there will be 4 silver coupes running JICs when all is said and done this spring.
And I think there will be 4 silver coupes running JICs when all is said and done this spring.
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Well I've been driving it and the car feels a lot better in the turns, not too much stress is placed on the tie rod from what I can see and hopefully the one nut can hold it down with no problems...but I will be checking it periodically just to make sure.
#24
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Rep Power: 401 We've got the same sig because I made one, he stole it.
I guess you can steal it too if you want.
Damn straight
If you're gonna go for it, just go all out!
I guess you can steal it too if you want.
boilermaker = I'm not only a player, I'm the player president
If you're gonna go for it, just go all out!
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Rep Power: 0 very nice finally got em on huh....i cant wait to take mine out with the flex kit on and get to the track and see what it can do....so u said that was all stainless?? i found that on the teins the upper mounts for the edfc will rust if u dont keep it greased up with some lithium grease..also u may want to cover up the pillowball mounts somehow...alot of crap got in mine at first had to blow all kinds of crap outa there no good...
#27
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Rep Power: 389 I didn't steal the sig! i asked you to make one because you are better at the photoshop thing than i am! mean people! blah
No they aren't stainless. The only ones that are stainless are KWs. The JICs will rust.
No they aren't stainless. The only ones that are stainless are KWs. The JICs will rust.
#28
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Rep Power: 357 Robbclark, got any better shots of your car? I could make you one of your own. as I fiddle with photoshop, Illistrator, After Effects ect all day long....... its my job after all.
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Rep Power: 389 no i have shitty shots of my car. that is justins. the girls won't go on the track to take pics. the thing I like about justins is that the civic is ambiguous. If you get too close, then you know who's car it is. Hmmmm maybe you could make a cool "band of 7thgen autoxers" or something....i know i am cheesy