Topgeari4

Hey guys,

Currently my car has about 54,000 and the brakes are starting to get really really low, I was wondering if someone can recommend to me which brand of rotors i should go with... I dont need any performance ones like brembos or anything just ones that are factory replacements....

thanks

ezone

If there isn't a problem with vibration when braking and the rotors aren't rusted all to he**, I'd just slap a set of factory pads on it.

lowlife9

http://www.dezod.com/pd-dezod-motors...nomy-brake.cfm

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

If your rotors arent warped, just get them resurfaced by a shop.

OEM rotors are the best for our cars

As for pads there are a great variety to choose from. Hawks hps or hawk ceramic is an awesome choice that is much much better than the OEM pads

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

Stay away from cheap eBay pads and rotors. Especially I'd they are drilled and slotted

MindBomber

+1 on these for just a budget pad change

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

Hawk pads will run you about 50$ shipped. And resurfacing will be about $20 total.

Heck, even the autozone duralast gold ceramic ones are really good.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

54k? I am at 104k and the rotors are still a long way to go.
just pads

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

That's y I said just tO resurface the rotors. No need to buy new ones. Plus, the new ones (like the one in the dezod link) won't be as good quality as the OEM ones

Topgeari4

When i brake hard there is no vibration, a squeaking noise just comes when im at a stop and i let off the brake or if im going like below 10mph and i release the brakes the same sound comes ...

I dont think my rotors are rusted (im guess if they were or if they were warped vibration would occur)

the Hawk HPS Street brake pads go for $68.58 shipped on tirerack, i guess ill do some price searching online and then order those...

MindBomber

$58.50 from Dezod

http://www.dezod.com/pd_hawk_performance.cfm

ezone

HOLD IT! HOLD IT! HOLD IT!
Does it squeak when you aren't moving, just pumping the brake pedal?

Stick your head out the window. Is it coming from the rear of the car?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

And also, try pulling and releasing the parking brake and see if you get the noise when releasing it. It could be the very common problem where the contact area of the shoes ( ] ) against the backing plate needs lubed.

Topgeari4

@ ezone, When im at a stop and i pump the brakes i dont hear the squeaking noise, the noise is coming from the back drivers side.

@ CraigW, I tried that and yes i hear the noise as im releasing the parking brake

Some more background on my car: I had bought it in the summer of 08 with 18,000 miles on it the previous owner only used the car to go to the train station daily. I have only changed all four tires on the car, along with wipers, & various lights.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Once you get the drums off (pretty easy on both of last 2 Civics) If you look at the back edge of shoes near the backing plate, You will see a ] area of the shoe that contacts the backing plate. If you put a small amount of grease at this area it will solve the noise.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Gotta add a +1 to this post.

Been rockin this set for a while now. I'm pleased with their performance.

botakcivic

I know is an old thread but i didn't want to start one...

Anyway, anyone tried this? Looks like a good deal.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Ehrm.... I'm sure they are fine but I bigtime prefer blanks over drilled/slotted for many reasons.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

^
I second that

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

double post...

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

start reading enough stuff to keep you for a while :

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...disk-swap.html

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Not to mention the reviews written below in that ad are not very good

Max91

Hmm... Don't know what comment I can add here. But what I can say, is I've had mine on for some time now and have had no problems. In fact, the little car will stop on a dime.

I know some of you warned me about these rotors. I will say, I wished they were just slotted and not drilled (possible crack factor). I'll keep a close watch on them and report any failure.

And that "whirling sound? I only heard it once when I dropped from 70 mph to 0 in a very short distance...I mean very short.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

^ they likely to crack with high road race conditions or poorly drilled without release of tensions. potentially, much less risks in street use, unless prolonged downhill use could cause some of the issues.

so, personally i will refrain to use them, especially because i still intend to run some track days with the car
you could get luck and never see it or not.

Max91

I agree for the most part. I think the quality of the rotor can make a difference. I defiantly would not buy these posted on Amazon.

So do you think location, environment, terrain, and road conditions could be a factor on wether they fail or not? Maybe where I'm at I may never see a problem.

For example, I saw a video of a Canadian dude replacing rotors. I was amazed at how big the rust flakes were. Here parts will rust but not to the point of dilapidation. I'm sure in some areas winter can be torture on cars.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

I'll explain a little bit about drilled/slotted rotors and their possible benefits/drawbacks.

Benefits :
Supposed better brake performance
Supposed better brake fade

Drawbacks :
- The brake fade is a myth, in fact the lack of material caused by the drilling/slotting actually causes the rotor to run hotter.
- The slots cause the pads to wear a lot faster. They are designed for race applications and actually shave a layer of pad off with each pass. That's the price you pay for increased brake performance. Slotted rotors are EXCELLENT for applications where the pads will glaze, which are no longer sold and your's dont GLAZE. The good thing about slots is they will shave the glazing off the pads to make sure braking performance does not diminish. This however, does not apply to you.
- Seriously reduced rotor life especially on cheap applications due to steel quality and material loss.

Blanks are by far the best rotors for the money. Not only are they cheaper, but they cool faster, stop the same and are easier on your pads. Take a look at a heatsink, they jam as much material as possible while allowing air to pass through a heatsink because the more steel there is the more heat it will draw. Consider your rotor a heatsink, it needs more material to cool better. Therefore, drilling material off your rotor is counterproductive.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

honestly don't know. for my use, i would not. checking rotors all the time for cracks would be a painful chore for me for no real added gains (in my opinion). many says sports cars have them so they *must* be better. well, their maintenance says a lot shorter periods of checks for cracks...
not for me and me vic.
ah, blueem2 have (or had) slotted ones, so he talks from experience. (imagine that the slots are actually crevices in the road and you can picture the happiness of the pads to meet the crevices thump/thump/thump!)

botakcivic

Thank you all for the feedback.

Going with Raybestos Rotors #96087 and Raybestos Pads #ATD465AC from rockauto. Total cost $95.

I hope these would be good enough for my pizza delivery job.
Thank you.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Raybestos are pretty decent brakes.

botakcivic

Thanks.
I heard good things about Hawks pads but not much about rotors.
Any recommendation?