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Ok, I am still interested in purchasing a power brake bleeder from motive that doesnt use shop air, but a pump to build pressure. But here is the thing:

In school I am studying brakes and our teacher told me today that he didnt like using power bleeders because you need to use a special tool to hold back the metering valve so fluid will come out the front calipers. He said since the metering valve holds off the front breaks untill sufficent pressure is built in the rear brakes, that when you put the 25 PSI of pressure on the master cylinder from the power bleeder, the metering valve will think the brakes are being applied and it will go to work. And he said snap on and others make a tool that pulls back the metering valve so you can power bleed the brakes. But he doesnt like it cause some of the metering valves are hard to get too? And he said even if you have the metering valve in the abs unit, you have to disable it somehow.

I want to know if this is true? I am not saying I dont believe a teacher who has been in the field for over 20+ yrs., but I think the website that sold these would at least tell you something like this. And I have never heard of this before and see techs everyday here power bleeding brakes without doing this.

So for those of you who are brake techs, let me know about this.

All of this came up when we took a pretest about brakes and one of the questions said

"A technician was power bleeding brakes and after he applied 25 PSI to the master cylinder, he went to open up the bleeder screws and no fluid came out of the front brakes, what is the problem? And one of the answers had to do with the metering valve.

 
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anyone?

 
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As i recall it depends on how much pressure the bleeder generates. Sorry but its been LOOOONG time since ive used a power bleeder, not to mention how long its been since i was schooled on them As i recall there is a metal clip you can buy to clamp around the little tit behind the that rubber boot. But to be honest its been too long .... The last time i used a power bleeder was prolly 10 years ago and i dont recall EVER having to actually clip it to hold the valve open

 
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here is some more info i found

http://www.branick.com/back/technote....asp?FileID=46

 
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well the one I am going to get is the one from
www.trackhaus.com, it is the motive one. So basically I should be fine as long as I dont excede the recommended PSI from the manufacture? I just want something I can do by myself. And this one looked like a good product, but when my teacher told me that, it kind of worried me. But I have never seen people actually override that valve in the field. I have seen them hook up the unti to the master cylinder, then open each bleed screw at each wheel and all the fluid comes out while the master cylinder is always filled with new fluid.

 
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Thats my understanding on the pressure setting. In my opinion i would recomemnd a vacum style bleeder myself. But im sure the motive one will work just fine.

 
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how does the vacuum bleeder work compared to this one?

 
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if you have compressed air available there are vacum bleeders that run off of it. Its all a matter of filling the master cyl. then putting the hose over the bleeder and opening the bleeder and it sucks out the fluid and air. They do make manual vacuum bleeders also

 
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so does it actually flush the system of the old fluid? And do you have to keep topping it off? Or does the bleeder kit do it for you? Cause I have seen one we have at work here where they hook an adapter up to the master cylinder, then they go to each wheel and drain out a bunch of fluid.

 
Rep Power: 328

With a vacum bleeder you still need to watch the master cyl fluid level

 
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Buy the power Motive power bleeder. I have one and love it. Bleeding brakes has never been easier. Just make sure you check the seal on the master cylinder and the adapter before filing the tank with fluid, it should be air tight, or you'll have brake fluid everywhere.

I prefer power bleeders over vacuum bleeders because you dont have to keep checking the master cylinder for fluid. You just fill up the tank of the power bleeder and your set.

Vacuum bleeders allow miniscule amounts of air through the threads of the bleeder nipple. If you decide to buy a vacuum bleeder, whenever you attach the bleeding hose/line to the bleeder nipple apply a small amount of grease to make sure it seals the threads good.

They are both good systems I just prefer the power bleeder.